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  2. Not sure if this would be close enough to what you want https://www.woolies-trim.co.uk/product/1606/flap-and-bead-boot-seal
  3. Hi Rutts, I've had a look at this cover and, with my limited knowledge, I don't think it is suitable. Comparing it to the cover I have just received, I notice that it does not have a pin/fixing point for the chain guide/rail although the basic shape, pump, water pump and distributor all look the same. Certainly needs someone with more knowhow than me to confirm 🙂
  4. Today
  5. Hey Herman That is just what im looking for. Mine is definitely not the original style, so i think it might have to be an order from Dr Manta. I try not to use him as he is expensive but i have not seen them on other sites. Thanks Andy
  6. This for sale topic may not yet available be for your usergroup
  7. https://m.facebook.com/groups/3561815633860881/permalink/4729500930425673/
  8. Hey Andrew Just measured them and they are the right size, so they should be fine. How does £5.00 sound? If you still need them drop me a private message with you address and i can let you know my paypal email and then i can pop them in the post to you tomorrow. Andy
  9. This seal fits over the edge of the heater box and got one lip pointing up, usually you can buy them at oldtimermeetings by the meter. If you'r going to look for them at an Opel webshop you'll pay more: http://dr-manta-shop.de/epages/0859c4be-b99b-4b88-8216-6a78b07dc4b5.sf/de_DE/?ObjectPath=/Shops/0859c4be-b99b-4b88-8216-6a78b07dc4b5/Categories/2f8639feef43f2964be0cee184dad78c/6aa1be3a9038b9d27d9233bf1c090f21 Picture of the seal: I would try a boot seal of a Manta-B.
  10. Very clean and tidy, excellent work 👍
  11. Yesterday
  12. Good plan to keep the car going. If the head does work out ok then you could just look at getting the bottom end sorted and swap out the block, nice easy option. You may be lucky and find one, but i think the old scrappage scheme got rid of a lot 🙂 The problem you have is even if it is low mileage unless you know the history of the car you will never know how much work is needed until you take the head off. If its low mileage and been neglected you will probably be in the same boat as a high mileage one that's been looked after. Im not sure if this is the case for all of the 2.4's but from my research the rods dont have the oil squirter hole like the 2.0 so i think they suffer more if they are not kept up to scratch with oil changes. The Haynes manual says they have the squirter but everyone i spoke to said they didn't. Just another thing to keep in mind when you are considering the options for the bottom end. The guys on the OpelGT site seems to mention a few piston options for the standard blocks with just a small amount of modification, so might be some other options than finding the manta pistons!
  13. Hi Andy. Stage one is 2.4 head on a 2.0 block. My 2.0 head is leaded and one of the valves won't seat 100%. I have the 2.4 head sitting unused and it's unleaded. So I'm just trying to make it work and maybe get a slight advantage over a standard 2.0 head with bigger valves and a better flow. I think I can make it work with very little outlay. I'm just not sure whether to get it skimmed or not to raise the CR. Any spare money is being spent on the car at the moment. Once that is finished I can then start savimg to put money into an engine build. You never know, a really low mileage, one careful owner 2.4 frontera might turn up🤣. Cheers J I'm convinced. I guess I can always take it off later....a lot harder to add back on. Really helpful 👍 I'll use the money to order the aluminium for the spacers. Thanks. K
  14. I think you will regret skimming that much off the head in the future for sure, you definitely would never notice 0.4/1 change in the CR, so it is not something that I would do (or consider a good use of the £40). The mods for the rest is a great idea to mount inlet plenum though, as the 2.4 sits too high, so that would be useful.
  15. Im glad it helped out. There was a lot of head scratching at the time until i finally figured it out. One of the reasons for having the blog was to be able to record all these findings and hopefully help others out and as the build has taken so long its handy for me to look back and see what i did 🙂 Its so much easier for me to record things and categories unlike having a post on here. and add all the extra stuff like the PDFs and parts links.
  16. Thanks Andy. I think I've read through most of your website now. It's very good and really informative. I had the same chain tensioner guide issue you had. Because I'd read through your site I knew what it was straight away. I meant to say thanks at the time. Thanks J Would you leave the head standard and not skim it? As I said I was just trying to get back to the 9.4 to 1 the GTE would have had so that I wasn't taking one step forward and one back. K
  17. Looking good. Could you run the 2.4 head on the 2.0 block, or was that the plan anyway? if you already have the head then rather than spending the money on finding a complete 2.4 you could spend the money getting the 2.0 bored out to a decent size? probably more piston option for the 2.0 that might help to keep the cost down? Andy
  18. I mocked this 10mm spacer up out of hardboard just to make sure it is possible. It's really rough but I just wanted to get a feel for what it would look like. I'm happy I can make something suitable out of 10mm aluminium. I'll also need an equivalent spacer to apply pressure on the exhaust manifold. 10mm is just enough to get over the 2.4 dowel and I can add another dowel to the spacer to match up with the 2.0 gasket and manifold. The ports are about the same overall height but the 2.4 ones are wider apart so the spacer just needs a slight taper to match up. It's not actually that much. Cheers all. https://photos.app.goo.gl/nFvfXJUfwgExLqGm6
  19. Hi Guys Now im back on the road again im just working through my snag list! On the A series where the heater box is there is a rubber seal that seals against the bonnet to stop any engine smells getting into the heater box. Mine is not original and im not sure its sealing properly as when i have been driving for a while you can smell engine fumes. Anyone know where to get a reproduction of the original or have a piece of original one as a template? I have seen some for the B series online but have no clue how that compares to the A series one? Thanks Andy
  20. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/154222321970
  21. Got it. £10 plus postage. Pm your email will send you pics first see of it's what you want instead of the nice whiney ones on German eBay. As said you can adapt a standard one to fit 2.4
  22. Many thanks, I've just sent you a message. Please let me know if you don't get it. Cheers.
  23. I have a standard 2.4 thermostate housing if required.
  24. Lots of great info over on the OpelGT forum for the 2.4, helped me out a lot. Got a few pics of my 2.4 on my blog that might help as well if you have not already headed over to take a look. http://theopelproject.com/ If you do go the 2.4 route and need pistons i think the best option is the Wossner ones, but a little pricey, but they have the skirts coated for longer life and the standard pistons (if you can find them) are a similar price now. Andy
  25. Hi Andrew I have not had chance to measure yet as a busy work day today and not home until it was dark and no power in the garage, but im in late tomorrow so will do it in the morning and will let you know. Here is a pic. Andy
  26. Seems reasonable. Just remember though that a CR change of such little will yield very little. A cam change would be more beneficial. Like the idea of the adjustable cam gear for £20 though, be interesting if you can keep it to such a budget 😎
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