misterconyers Posted January 30, 2007 Share Posted January 30, 2007 After not doing alot on the hatch, over new year, I've finally got the engine back in ![] The ends in sight! not without the usual problems though! Brake lines that are too close to the exhaust manifold ( See thread in tech questions ! ) And exhaust manifold thats too close to the crossmember. Time to get the angle grinder out again . . [] Cheers, Tim (OMOC # 5996) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrCarlos Posted January 30, 2007 Author Share Posted January 30, 2007 I solved the manifold problem by changing the rubber doughnut engine mounts for some from a 3ltr Capri (I know I know Ford parts but they're easily available!). These are shallower than the GTE items I see you are using and drop the manifold down far enough to clear the crossmember. Incidentally they also give you enough clearance to use the standard XE SFI airbox with a standard bonnet too, not relevant for yourself since you are using a powercap though.... Never had a problem with those brake lines, just routed them around the inner wing. Carl[] 1984 GTE Coupe Red Top 16v - B623RWW - currently being reshelled... 1988 GTE Exclusive Coupe - E862BAO, Daily driver! OMOC Member#5937 Into MySpace? Check me out...... http://www.myspace.com/mrcarlos01 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moon Monkey Posted January 30, 2007 Share Posted January 30, 2007 are they the ones that can be used to replace the 1800 mounts too??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robbie Posted January 30, 2007 Share Posted January 30, 2007 yes , you can use 2.3 mk4 or mk5 cortina engine mounts thats what I have used on my 16V conversion, Glad to see the car coming along well, the wiring and the ecu clutters up the engine bay a tad, could you not fit the ecu inside the bulkhead, would keep it dry as well. [] Woldnt be a big job to reroute those brake lines and give you piece of mind http://www.mantamagic.com OMOC N,Ireland Rep id="blue"> OMOC 5706 ... ed&search= Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mickappy Posted January 30, 2007 Share Posted January 30, 2007 you could always use exhaust wrap to keep the heat off the lines. omoc member 5918- p10 badboy 400r trackday turbo on its way.... http://www.vxopel.com/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
misterconyers Posted January 31, 2007 Share Posted January 31, 2007 Thanks guys, I am planning on mounting the ecu inside as long as it does't involve any major rewiring, I've only just started on that part ! And as of this evening the brake lines are in a much more suitable position, will post some pics tomorrow ! But I think a bit of exhaust wrap might be a good idea aswell - [] and Robbie and Mr Carlos, thanks, I'll give the Ford engine mounts a try before I start grinding chunks out of the crossmember- thats a bit of specialised kowledge that only the Manta club can provide - much appreciated! [] (And an extra bonus, that would lower the centre or gravity of the car a touch too, correct?) All the more reason for a good 16v guide I say ![] Cheers, Tim (OMOC # 5996) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mantasrme Posted January 31, 2007 Share Posted January 31, 2007 I'm just finishing off my 16v install myself. The bush from a rally mkII escort works well on the exhaust side, i've been fitting heavy duty versions of these for years now to stop ripping the original mount apart on rallies. But while my exhaust cleared it was too close for my liking so i trimmed the sides of the gearbox mount and re-inforced it from above to keep it strong. To get the ecu into the car i unwound all the old loom tape so i could see what i was dealing with and it made it a lot more flexible. The neatest way would be to cut/shorten and rejoin a lot of wires so all of the wiring came out of the injector cover box at the rear of the engine bay. Then the ignition/dizzy/ crank sensor wires run across where the heater had been. Whilst the ecu wires run into the car. I didn't fancy that much re-wiring so went for the simple (but not quite as neat way) of folding all the loom that was infront of the injector rail back along the the rail and through the old heater hole into the car (with a cut out and grommet in the blank i made to cover the hole). With the top off the injector plug box there is plenty of room to get all the extra wire to go the other way. Rather than realy folding all the wires tightly (and possibly causing problems) i did a fairly tight loop out of the front of the tube which i have temperarly wrapped. Will sort this better later (maybe!) Oh and if you wrap your exhaust the best way to make the actual exhaust wrap last when its on the exhaust is to use heat paint on the exhaust pipes first, then wrap it, then paint the wrap aswell. This is how most of the heat wrap companies tell you to do it and they also sell the special heat paint. It really reduces the heat from the exhaust lots when using a tubular manifold. I do like your contrasting black and purple engine bay, looks very nice[8D] Did want a power cap for mine instead of the SFi box but they're silly money so might end up making my own. http://www.mantasport.co.uk OMOC no:3325 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robbie Posted January 31, 2007 Share Posted January 31, 2007 These project threads on the forum are just getting better and better lately [] http://www.mantamagic.com OMOC N,Ireland Rep id="blue"> OMOC 5706 ... ed&search= Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
misterconyers Posted February 1, 2007 Share Posted February 1, 2007 And even better . . . [] Sorted the brake lines out now, a bit of exhaust wrap and all should be good. Sorted some Cortina engine mounts, gonna fit them and then see what the exhaust clearance is like before I modify the gearbox crossmember. Got a Polo heater today for £20, bit expensive I thought, more than I'd pay for the whole running car! Still don't think it'll fit with the 16v dizzy tho, but I'll keep you posted! And now for the next phase of the project - I've managed to get my grubby little mitts on this lot - got it all dead cheap cos the oil pumps smashed on the engine and there's a piston missing from the carb kit, and no vernier pulleys. 220bhp anyone? [] [] SBD 220 carb kit (twin Delorto's, high lift long duration cams, MBE ecu, high compression Omega pistons and trumpets, filters etc . . Twin oil coolers . . And a C20XE with a perfect Coscast head, oil pump smashed to bits but no bore or crank wear, all ready for solid lifters, porting, polishing and such. The pistons look a bit evil- I think the compression ratio is 11.5:1 ! All I need now is a f***ing big payrise so I can sort it all out! I've looked at SBD's prices , wtf? [:0][xx(] Wish me luck everyone, there's no turning back now! [] (Also if anyone knows a good way to get an XE crank pulley bolt out, please let me know. I think I just broke my torque wrench trying . .) Cheers, Tim (OMOC # 5996) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin Abbott Posted February 1, 2007 Share Posted February 1, 2007 That looks like a bargain to me, nice work Get the crank bolt out by removing the sump by stopping the crank from turning by sticking a big block of wood between it and the block then put a scaffolding pole on the end of a braker bar and jump on it[] Lock the engine stand before though. My XE fitted with the polo heater, it was tight but you can bond the heater inplace to miss the dizzy on the xe Kev Many A Night Tinkering About OMOC 4076 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mantasrme Posted February 1, 2007 Share Posted February 1, 2007 When i tried the polo heater behind the 16v i found it all a bit tight for my liking. Getting at the dizzy cap and leads would be harder with the heater there. So i decided to mount the heater in the car instead. Which did mean it was much easier to run the wiring loom into the car for the ecu location in the dry. Oh and if its any help you can modify the polo heater a little bit to get the water pipes to come out the other side of the body. Remove the matrix, cut the end of the caseing and glue to old open end, then refit the matrix from other side. Did this when i fitted one to my 1.8 years back and it gave much easier water pipe runs. And i even got the original temp selection cable to work it [] With all your new tuning stuff for the 2nd engine are you tempted to swap from the dcoe's to bike carbs? http://www.mantasport.co.uk OMOC no:3325 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
misterconyers Posted February 1, 2007 Share Posted February 1, 2007 Yeah thanks guys I'm just off to start messing around with the heater, like you say I think it needs to sit further to the drivers side than I had it. I hadn't thought about bike carbs though, sounds expensive to me ! [] Cheers, Tim (OMOC # 5996) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mantasrme Posted February 1, 2007 Share Posted February 1, 2007 quote:Originally posted by misterconyers I hadn't thought about bike carbs though, sounds expensive to me ! [] id="quote">id="quote"> I got my carbs from E-bay for less than £25 including delivery (38mm mikuni CV carbs from a suzuki) Currently i'm working on modifying an original xe injection manifold to allow me to fit the carbs without paying £160 for a custom manifold from Bogg-Brothers (who specialise in them) Add around £10-15 for a low pressure fuel pump and lob on a filter king regulator for good measure. Plus a normal dizzy from a cav 1.6 (i think it was that model) Then they just need jetting to suit the car. So around £60 at my local rolling road should sort that out. All in i'm planning on doing it for under £150 (probably well under) [][] Which is a damn sight better than the alternative prices around. http://www.mantasport.co.uk OMOC no:3325 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robbie Posted February 1, 2007 Share Posted February 1, 2007 You dont need 2 oil coolers give me one [] Glad to see u getting loads of good bits for the car, better get back out to mine this evening for a while [] http://www.mantamagic.com OMOC N,Ireland Rep id="blue"> OMOC 5706 Please dont shoot me it,s only an opinion not a demand Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
misterconyers Posted February 1, 2007 Share Posted February 1, 2007 That sound very nice mantasrme, are there any benefits of running bike carbs over DCOE's? As I have them already I shall be using those, as the kit was designed using Dellortos (better than Webers for the purpose, according to the SBD website), maybe this could be a future (future being the operative word!) project for me Anyway, please don't encourage me ! It was the carb kit or a foreign holiday in the summer, guess what I chose ! [][] Cheers, Tim (OMOC # 5996) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robbie Posted February 2, 2007 Share Posted February 2, 2007 you can have a holiday working at the car, did u use the 1800 clutch setup or the xe one on the 1800 box http://www.mantamagic.com OMOC N,Ireland Rep id="blue"> OMOC 5706 Please dont shoot me it,s only an opinion not a demand Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
misterconyers Posted February 2, 2007 Share Posted February 2, 2007 Funny you should say that Robbie, I'm technically on holiday at the moment, took a week off work to get a bit done on the Manta (hence all the questions, pics etc over the last few days . . ) Sod it, I'd rather be in my garage working on my car, listening to techno with a j and a stella than 'largin' it in magaluf or some other spanish s**thole. Going on holiday is overrated anyway. I like it where I am ! [] Cheers, Tim (OMOC # 5996) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
misterconyers Posted February 2, 2007 Share Posted February 2, 2007 And Robbie, I used an early 20XE flywheel (smaller & lighter than the C20XE), calibra turbo friction plate and 20XE pressure plate . I wonder if it'll all cope with (hopefully) 220bhp ? [][] Cheers, Tim (OMOC # 5996) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robbie Posted February 2, 2007 Share Posted February 2, 2007 Good choice, [] hard to be good wether when we get it at home, its a good as a holiday and we can ply with the cars [^] http://www.mantamagic.com OMOC N,Ireland Rep id="blue"> OMOC 5706 Please dont shoot me it,s only an opinion not a demand Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.