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Re building GTE coupe


Joe
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I thought my eyes had gone funny looking at your last two pictures Graham. I was thinking the bottom one had invisible lower rails, then realised it had.[:I]

Nice job!

Cheers,

Joe.

Please log into this site from the Home page folks. It helps to keep it as the first Manta site listed on Google.

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Thanks. Yes i cut the bottom of the chassis rail out last. Well spotted.

Any shows soon? Haven't been in ages?

Will finish it off tomorrow provided i can get the box section, or can use a metal folder to make the section.

Strange as the chassis rail on the other side is completely solid.

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I see Joe got to you as you pondered rust treatment [:D]

Thats some nice neat work there. Hope my repairs come up ok!

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OMOC #5988

hmackay at opel-manta.com

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I hae a few guid reasons for drinkin’

And yin juist entered ma heid

If a man canna’ drink while he’s livin’

Hoo the Hell can he drink when he’s deid!

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Spent the morning stripping the front suspension. Cleaned up the stub axle and hub on one side. Might do the other later.

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Anyone used Bilt-Hamber Detox C on their front subfarme? Is it any good?

Thanks

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I used it on control arms. Did a no bad job.

Just make sure you make the solution strong, and leave the stuff in overnight. Quick scrub with a brush and hose down and all was good again.

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

OMOC #5988

hmackay at opel-manta.com

sigpic.JPG

I hae a few guid reasons for drinkin’

And yin juist entered ma heid

If a man canna’ drink while he’s livin’

Hoo the Hell can he drink when he’s deid!

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Just to add to the Deox-C, it really is very good indeed (use loads to make a strong solution). It can take up to a week if you can't heat the solution, and with daily light brushing with an old toothbrush, to get rid of all the rust. I'm highly impressed with it though.

The last bit I did this week (a lower suspension arm) was helped by giving it a good de-grease and a wire brushing followed by a rinse with my hosepipe, before dunking it in the solution.

Cheers,

Joe (who ought to be getting commission from Bilt Hamber!)

Please log into this site from the Home page folks. It helps to keep it as the first Manta site listed on Google.

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Getting those four bolts out can be an absolute pain in the arse. Well the bottom two can!!

Soak them in releasing oil for a week before you do it, even then you may need heat, or like me have to cut them off.

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There must be some truth in the fact that later Mantas rust more easily than the earlier cars.

On the left a jacking point from my 86 GTE and on the right a jacking point from a 77 mk1 cavalier.

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Just wish the manta had been as clean and tidy as the mk1 cavalier.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Don't want to sound dumb but I take it this is the 2.5mm plate you used for your chassis

snowychassirepair1.jpg

I was trying to work out how far down the inner chassis came down as mine on the drivers side is completley gone, I have a new outer chassis member (Swan neck) so the whole of the outer skin is removed from top to near jacking point. I still have the inner chassis where the front axle rear bolts go through. I will porbably use "U" channel for the inner chassis from the top of the swan neck to lower inner chassis

Rob

Membership No.5890

**Project resuming very soon**

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I was after knowing above that, as my car seemed to be double skin chassis around the swan neck, but I had to cut it out due to the rust. The part you noted is there on mine just needs cleaning up and the outer skin re-applying.

Cheers anyhow as I know how I am going to tackle my passenger sid chassis rail as you have given me some food for thought.

Rob

Membership No.5890

**Project resuming very soon**

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Just getting ready to put the front cross member back in. Only held in with screws at the moment.

Just asking opinions here but do people usually spot weld these back on or seam weld them on?

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Here's what your chassis rails look like from the inside....

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I always thought these rotted out from the inside. Now i realise that they rot where they are double skinned. Not fun.

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good work there, in answer to your question about welding, I always think its best to weld in as many places as you can. I fitted a x-member to mine and I seam welded and spot welded it back in. You may as well have it as strong as you can.

If you are spot welding with a mig, a tip is to use at least an 8mm hole, I found smaller than this I had difficulty getting the weld to flow around the edges (kept arcing to the middle) and the joint wasnt as strong. Its hard to describe actually, anyone who has done it will know what I'm on about.

Just using spotwelds should be Ok on its own too.

If what I say can be taken in 2 ways and one of those ways get you angry....I meant it the other way

e-mail : mark_gunning@yahoo.co.uk

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OMOC 5817

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