Jump to content

1976 B series coupe


Recommended Posts

One of the 6 flywheel bolts has got a "P" marked on the head. If you compare this bolt with the others you'll see it is a bit different, the thread is shorter. This "P bolt " fits in one flywheel hole, the one that's a bit smaller than the other 5. You can check this with a calliper but when you fit the "P bolt" in the holes you'll find one thats a perfect fit.  The reason of this bolt is to keep the flywheel stuck on it's place, cause of the torque it wants to move when you accelerate, change gear etc. 

  • Like 4
Link to post
Share on other sites
  • Replies 206
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Posts

Luckily the rest stayed put, and was finger tight to remove. Lucky. Just need to source a new bolt.    then finished drilling the down pipe bolts. Tried heat and stud extractors but they didn’t

And a lock of paint  Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

Edelschmiede gives always a nice service, and indeed always a small present.🎄 The Belgian "Gendarmerie" (Federal Police) did once a search in my house cause there was something stolen at the barracks

Posted Images

correct.

and also because it means  that the flywheel can only be fitted in 1 actual position ,the flywheel timing mark is visible and correct if you use it .handly for locating exact tdc if you need to

  • Like 2
Link to post
Share on other sites
26 minutes ago, cam.in.head said:

correct.

and also because it means  that the flywheel can only be fitted in 1 actual position ,the flywheel timing mark is visible and correct if you use it .handly for locating exact tdc if you need to

I always forget about the TDC mark on flywheel 

Link to post
Share on other sites

Dti gauge reads approx 0.06mm of run out on the flywheel. Which I think is acceptable? 
 

I’ve found the P bolt and measured it, it’s shorter by 0.5 of a mm.... so I’m not sure which hole that goes in! 

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

I’m pretty sure the P bolt goes in this hole. The hole should be on a different spacing to the rest and a different diameter. The P bolt has a different length of thread 

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

It has a different length of threaded section and acts as dowel essentially . It’s more of a diameter thing than a length thing 

  • Like 3
Link to post
Share on other sites

All sorted, flywheel wise. Found the smaller hole and refitted the P bolt into it. All torqued up to 43ft lbs. still awaiting parts hopefully a good chunk of bits will come in the next week. 

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

meanwhile I’m replacing gaskets on the gearbox. Oil came out clean as a whistle. Inside looks very clean too. No noticeable damage. 
 

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

  • Like 3
Link to post
Share on other sites

In this episode of “WTF have I broken now?” The 4 speed box is almost completely stripped. I wanted to change the rear gasket but you can’t get the rear end off without pulling everything apart. After realising this I tried to put it back together but the input shaft came off and the 1st gear syncro fell to bits. So I’ve pulled it to bits to put it back together. The rebuild continues today. 

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Gearboxes are inherently fiddly the first time you work on them. Usually loads of clips and pins that are not immediately obvious. Just triple check and take your time 👍

Link to post
Share on other sites

The needle roller bearings in the lay shaft can get in the sea. Hateful hateful little buggers. Fell on the floor a few times so had to clean them up and grease them to keep in place. 

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

I have successfully rebuilt the gearbox and can get all 4 forward gears and reverse. Glad about that. There doesn’t appear to be many 4 speeds about. Pretty simple to strip and rebuild if you know the routine. 

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

ive replaced the rear seal now.
 

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

I found there was a spring missing from the side of the gear lever. Odd. Had a rummage through the spares department and found this. Fits perfect! 
 

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

 

and to celebrate I gave it a lick of paint along with engine mounts. 

 

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

Link to post
Share on other sites

So while paint is drying I’ve fitted an alternator I’ve been given, which I had tested yesterday. New belt too. Also fitted the engine mounts and 1x missing inlet-exhaust manifold bolt. All I’m waiting for now is the new clutch ive ordered, then officially the engine can go in.

I will only fit the freshly painted sump when the engine is dangling on the crane ready to go in, same with rocker cover and service items. I’ll fit them when it’s in. 

Then I can rebuild the carb on the bench at home. 

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

  • Like 3
Link to post
Share on other sites

Will be here myself in a few months, really helpful follow guide, just to keep me in track, freshen up of block, gearbox and carb build, no experience in carb building, can i order a indepth guide with plenty of photos. Do you plan on using any sealant, on sump gasket? 

Link to post
Share on other sites
8 minutes ago, ®evo03 said:

Will be here myself in a few months, really helpful follow guide, just to keep me in track, freshen up of block, gearbox and carb build, no experience in carb building, can i order a indepth guide with plenty of photos. Do you plan on using any sealant, on sump gasket? 

Best to have the Haynes book of lies to hand. It has a breakdown of all the gearbox parts, so when a few things popped out onto the bench I could locate them. Haven’t started the carb rebuild yet. Going to order a rebuild kit tomorrow from webcon, but ideally need my bench back before I start it lol. 

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Today I decided to get the manta repositioned so that I can put the engine in. 
 

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

it was stuffed between the kit car and the mini, the wrong way round. But I got the jack under the diff and dragged it out. 

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

so it’s ready for the engine to go in. 
 

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

 

Couldn’t help myself test fit a wing I have to replace the original. I wanted to reuse the original wing but it’s full of wob and there’s an aerial hole in the top surface. 
 

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

  • Like 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

While I’m struggling to get about transportation wise, I’m going to start prepping a pair of doors I have at home. I have a DA sander at home, what’s the best sanding disks to get, and grade? 

Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted (edited)

Looking good! Nice replacement panels. Nice car this is gonna be, any plans on mods or originality! Either way, very nice! 

As for sanding depends how far back you need, or want to go, some start as low as 80 or 100, then finish of 200, 400, 600 or 800.  You will need more of the higher grades, for finishing. 

If your doing both doors back to bare, would you consider paint stripper, you can get modern day healthy stuff, or full blown aircraft grade, which will have you flying.....can be used with cling film to stop evaporation, then sand! Makes the sanding easier. 

More pics of kit and mini needed! 

 

Edited by ®evo03
Link to post
Share on other sites

Ok I’ll get a selection of disks ordered. I’m not keen on paint stripper, not with a GSD sticking his nose in things wandering around the garden. 

my project will never be a show winner, or a museum piece like some folks cars on here. I’ve not got the time, patience, skill or MONEY to achieve that. I want to do as much as I can myself so I can say I did it, not “I payed someone to do it”. It’ll be a clean useable classic and that’s the plan. Use it, because it’s tax free. 

the kit car is a Dutton Phaeton S2. Belongs to my brother. Probably never going to get done. And the mini is a project the wife has bought. 1987 Mayfair. Fully stripped. 1380 race engine. Currently also needs welding. Lots of it. 

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Currently I’m rebuilding the carb. I want this completely rebuilt and ready before I commit to getting more parts for it. Hopefully it will be fine. I’ve a couple of different carbs knocking around for other models but ideally want this DGV all up and running. It’s a mess in there! 

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.


×
×
  • Create New...