Suzy Posted February 1, 2008 Share Posted February 1, 2008 Following some help and encouragment from my friends at another forum I have decided now is as good time to fulfil an ambition I have had for years and buy and restore my own car. I intend to restore this myself probably learning quite a lot along the way I also intend to do most of the engine work myself and this simple engine and carb set up seemed perfect. Sorry bout quality of photos but they are from the seller. Well here she is. And the best bit!!!! Details for those who are interested 1988 Opel Manta 2.1 GTE Exclusive Running Webber twin 40 DCOE Carbs External Fuel pump and regulator Other than that pretty standard as far as I know. Suz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Suzy Posted February 1, 2008 Author Share Posted February 1, 2008 Not really sure as yet got to post up an update later on with few more pics and some more info. Would appear she was owned by someone on this site at some point as she has the sticker inthe window?? Suz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted February 1, 2008 Share Posted February 1, 2008 Nice car, when you get bored of filling it up with fuel and decide to replace teh fuel inj system let me know and i'll buy teh twin 40's off you[] OMOC Member 6144 1982 1800 Manta Berlinetta Coupe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Suzy Posted February 1, 2008 Author Share Posted February 1, 2008 Hey Guy's After a 200 mile trip she arrived home yesterday and on the driveway Discovered on way home that the car is fitted with limited edition aero dynamic mirrors that fold in to the car at high speed (well 65 anyway), the drivers side indicator is for internal use only (good fun trying to change lane on M25 with no indicator!! ), also comes complete with water storage system under drivers carpet, a whistle coming through drivers window quickly fixed with a magic tree air freshner and very intermittent fuel, and temperature gauges. On the plus side the gearbox feels really fresh, clutch is good and no whines or nasty noises from any of suspension. And something I'm really pleased about she came with the original receipt of purchase and first insurance cover note, MOT's from 1994 to present and the original service and hand books On way home went to our local tuners for a quick check over only for the starter motor to have a funny fit outside, good job there some good strong lads around for a bump start!!! However following said visit to APT I've been advised that somehow she managed to get the 200 miles home on effectively two cylinders with a potentially blown head gasket or burnt/ sticking valves. I was hoping to be able to drive it round a little before HAVING to do any work however as most of you know thats one of the joy's of car ownership!!!!! Have to say had a sudden realisation of exactly what have now set myself up for!!!!!! As much for my records as for the thread Gary (tuner) did compression check Rear 2 cylinders 68 & 75[:0] number 3 above 115 didn't check number four (no point) Last night/early hours of this morning following the advice of Gary removed the head from the car (so much for driving her for a while before she was dismantled!!!!!) Managed most of it myself although did have to invest in the help of other half to get the headbolts out (they're tough little blighters). Have got new head set on order, new headbolts and a sump gasket (as top half of the engine out thought would take the other half out and clean it up too, mind you as will have whole engine out might strip it completely and rebuild ) Going to have the head skimmed to be on the safe side as head gasket appears to only be sealing round the edge and was leaking in between cylinders. Apparently common problem with the 2.0L CIH engine is a banana shaped head!!!! Tomorrow nights job providing Jay finishes garage refurb tomorrow will be to strip the head completely and check valves and camshaft just got to hope don't need new valves £90 including valve stem seals!! Can I get these cheaper anywhere? Check out pics any advice gratefully received. Before hand Removed Rocker Cover, carbs, & inlet manifold!!!!!!(who thought up the design of that!!!) Don't mix synthetic and mineral oil!!! Off with her head!!! Cylinders 1 & 2 Cylinders 3 & 4 Will let you know outcome of tomorrows escapades!!!! Suz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeyRules Posted February 2, 2008 Share Posted February 2, 2008 Well you don't mess about Suz that's for sure![] ________________________________________________ Mike OMOC #6109 This ere is Opel Country, where on a quiet day you can actually here the Fords rusting mikeyrulesATjustopelvauxhall.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted February 2, 2008 Share Posted February 2, 2008 I'd think carefully before spending too much on the engine as you may well be able to get hold of a decent complete CIH from other forum members for less than the cost of the parts you need. Having said that, at least yours should be okay with unleaded as it's a late car. What condition is the roof around the sunroof and the chassis rails under the front floor? If either are rusting, it's worth getting those sorted out promptly as the Exclusives do have a certain reputation to live down too.[] As a general rule with Mantas, mechanicals are nothing and bodywork everything, which is why there are so few of them left these days. I admire your work rate very much though. That would have taken me a month at least.[:I] Cheers, Joe. OMOC 3348. Keeper of the OMOC B Series Register. Please log into this site from the Home page. It helps to keep it as the first Manta site listed on Google. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Suzy Posted February 2, 2008 Author Share Posted February 2, 2008 The engine is from an 1986 according to the numbers on top of the engine would that still be ok for unleaded and also what about the 99 ron such as optimax??? The plan is when MOT runs out in June to take her off the road and strip to bare shell and then I'm goingto weld her up, prob gonna try and get replacement roof so she doesn't have a sunroof!!!!!!! Suz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1900SR Posted February 2, 2008 Share Posted February 2, 2008 Hi Suzy, you'll need to check your engine number to see if your car is suitable for unleaded, then go here http://www.mantaclub.org/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=9647 I hope this helps. omoc 5660,Cambridge & The Fens Area Rep & keeper of the A register. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Suzy Posted February 2, 2008 Author Share Posted February 2, 2008 "quote"Originally posted by 1900SR Hi Suzy, you'll need to check your engine number to see if your car is suitable for unleaded, then go here I hope this helps. "quote" Being really dumb but where abouts would this be??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keith1200 Posted February 2, 2008 Share Posted February 2, 2008 (on engine or log book ?) Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Suzy Posted February 2, 2008 Author Share Posted February 2, 2008 Prob not going to be the one on the log book as this matches the original purchase invoice. Where on the engine would it be?? Suz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pat Posted February 2, 2008 Share Posted February 2, 2008 the engine no is on the sparkplug side of the engine on a outcrop that slants down, if you look at the pics you posted of the head off the 4th one down shows the outcrop as being roughly level with the second bore/piston from the front[] based in crewe , cheshire Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Suzy Posted February 2, 2008 Author Share Posted February 2, 2008 Just been put and had another look and think have found it see pic. Looks like it is an earlier engine. If this is right I take it this will not run fully on unleaded, so will need to put lead replacement in every 6th tank? Is there any way to tell if has had a newer top end fitted? Suz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gunman Posted February 2, 2008 Share Posted February 2, 2008 If my thoughts are correct thats a very early engine for your car. A 20s is a carbed engine from before the GTE came along (around 1983). I wouldnt entertain running that on unleaded at all, I personally would use the valvemaster additive in EVERY tank. If its been run on unleaded before it could possibly explain where your compression is going if the valves and seats are worn. If what I say can be taken in 2 ways and one of those ways get you angry....I meant it the other way e-mail : mark_gunning@yahoo.co.uk OMOC 5817 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Suzy Posted February 2, 2008 Author Share Posted February 2, 2008 Not what I was hoping mind you at least found out now, as far as aware running unleaded and we drove the 200miles back using unleaded as had no reason to think otherwise till queried running optimax earlier today!!!!!!!! In which case are the sump bolts, head set and sump gasket on order likely to fit, also would a newer head fit this bottom end if it would is there any way to find out if it has a newer unleaded compatible head. Sorry to ask so many questions but want to make sure get this right!!!! Suz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gunman Posted February 2, 2008 Share Posted February 2, 2008 Just had another thought[:I] Admittedly I'm not the most knowledgeable on this but I think the GTE cam is not really suitable to run twin webbers on so if it were a GTE head it would have more than likely had the cam changed. It's most likely that this 20s engine was selected as it was more suitable. As I say theres many on here know more about this than me so I'm quite prepared to be told I'm wrong[]. If what I say can be taken in 2 ways and one of those ways get you angry....I meant it the other way e-mail : mark_gunning@yahoo.co.uk OMOC 5817 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gunman Posted February 2, 2008 Share Posted February 2, 2008 Sorry, didnt see your last post untill after my last[)] As far as I am aware the early block will couple up to the later heads with no real problems. They are all basically the same 2.0 CIH. I will leave someone more expert to come along and confirm tho. Theres nothing to say that even if it were an early head it wasnt converted either. If what I say can be taken in 2 ways and one of those ways get you angry....I meant it the other way e-mail : mark_gunning@yahoo.co.uk OMOC 5817 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Suzy Posted February 2, 2008 Author Share Posted February 2, 2008 Tonight managed to strip the head down so I can send it off to have it skimmed and cleaned up. Would appear that on cylinder 3 & 4 the exhaust valve lifters were stuck and a couple of the valves were sticking in the guides too. Now have taken valves out I can see that the only cylinder with any pressure when Gary did the pressure test, was the only one in which the valves were sealing. On a plus point the cam seems to be newer than the rest of the engine. No signs of wear and no movement in the carriers. The engine incidentially I found out today is from a manta a lot older than my car. ALso think not going to need new valves can clean and reseat the exisitng ones[] Got to turn engine tomorrow to confirm that piston 1 & 4 are in as good nick and the other two. I am going to remove and clean the sump out but am now really in two minds as to whether to have the whole bottom end to bits. Anyone got any advice on this? I don't want to pull it to bits for no reason but I also don't want to leave it if it is worthwhile. The other thing is if put it back together and have only done the head and it doesn't start then I know it will be a problem within the head, if I rebuild the whole engine it could be anything causing the problem. Then I will probably have to have whole thing to bits again to sort it out. stripped head Cylinders 1 (left) and 2 Cylinders 3(left) and 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1900SR Posted February 2, 2008 Share Posted February 2, 2008 If you're sending the head off to be skimmed, why not get hardened valve seats fitted at the same time? You'll then be able to run unleaded without any fear of valve seat recession. omoc 5660,Cambridge & The Fens Area Rep & keeper of the A register. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mantadoc Posted February 3, 2008 Share Posted February 3, 2008 (edited) Deleted Edited September 27, 2017 by mantadoc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bendy Posted February 3, 2008 Share Posted February 3, 2008 Ill second that on the floor inside, mines e pretty good shell to be honest but the floor inside (above the chasis rails) was rotten as it goes from inside out. It became evident after hacking all the sound deadening off, itsounds like an ordeal but your best getting area like that sorted sooner rather than later as rot and rust is a disease that spreads![] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Suzy Posted February 3, 2008 Author Share Posted February 3, 2008 Thanks for al the help, think will probably put top end back on and see how she runs from there. Have had look at rust situation and she is rusty in all the usual places but does nt appear to be a basket case!!!!! Come June she will definately be coming off road for full strip down and weld up as MOT runs out so seemed pointless to retest if I am going to take her off the road. Would just like to run and enjoy her till then! With regard to unleaded fuel is it just the valves seats that would need replacing or do i need hardened valves too? How would i find out if it is a newer head that os unleaded compatible? Suz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gunman Posted February 3, 2008 Share Posted February 3, 2008 Suzy: Mantadoc is one of those more knowledgeable people than me I was talking about[]. I'll throw in my advice too, may as well. Regarding the bottom end, with the head off you should be able to see if there is any wear or scoring on the bores. Also check the pistons at the top for movement from side to side, this will indicate if the bores are worn. You say you are taking the sump off too, why not pull a big end cap off and have a look at the shells? Look for scoring or a two tone metal colour indicating they are well worn. If the shells are worn then you should maybe look at replacing them (this will also help oil pressure). If what I say can be taken in 2 ways and one of those ways get you angry....I meant it the other way e-mail : mark_gunning@yahoo.co.uk OMOC 5817 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Suzy Posted February 3, 2008 Author Share Posted February 3, 2008 "quote">Originally posted by gunman I'll throw in my advice too, may as well. Regarding the bottom end, with the head off you should be able to see if there is any wear or scoring on the bores. Also check the pistons at the top for movement from side to side, this will indicate if the bores are worn. "quote" Have had a look at this and certainly two and three are ok (no scoring) gonna turn engine to check 1 & 4 for scoring in the bores but all of them seem to have very little movement at all side to side. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mantadoc Posted February 3, 2008 Share Posted February 3, 2008 (edited) Deleted Edited September 27, 2017 by mantadoc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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