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paulmcclung

V6 Hatch

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Well I have started on this but will have to see how I get on with my lack of engineering skills. Got the engine all stripped down to just the bottom end left in ready to haul out once I get a hoist.

4394024331a5069812502l.jpg

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This is what is going in its place.

v6.jpg

Still working out a lot of the details but in the end it looks like I am going to use the omega 5 speed even with all the work that will be involved in making that work e.g Hydraulic clutch and completely different prop shaft.

Will keep this updated as and when work continues.

P.s this is what done in the old engine.

4394024331a6817702036l.jpg

Was fun while it lasted but a leaking solenoid killed the bottom end.

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If you need any help with the V6 give me a ring, I've done a few now and have all the wireing diagrams.

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Got a load of parts picked up the other day e.g Omega 2.5 manual gearbox/clutch/flywheel and also prop incase I need it. Had the manta and omega boxes next to each other tonight and size wise they are not far off each other.

Still dont have a hoist to get the engine out. Kinda grudge the money for something I will use once.

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I am told the 2.5 Omega manual box will bolt straight in without any cutting or shutting. Not sure on the accuracy and I spose you'll find out for yourself soon enough anyway

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Still dont have a hoist to get the engine out. Kinda grudge the money for something I will use once.

unbolt the front cross member/trailing arms (or whatever they're called) and gearbox mount, disconnect the steering rack and brake pipe, jack the body up a few feet and pull the engine out along with the cross member/wheels etc :thumbup

with the crossmember out it'll be easier to workout how to mount the V6 to it

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The gearbox does look like it will not be too much trouble to get in. The extension piece that the gearstick sits on is a little longer but it looks like I might be able to bolt the GTE one on.

I managed to pick up a new engine hoist yesterday from Maching Mart. Got a Clark 1 ton unit for 152.

... ine-stands

If anyone wants to buy this from me after I have the engine in it will be for sale.

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Well finaly thats the old lump of pig iron and the gearbox out. I totlay forgot about the gearstick though so I have totaly screwd the rubber surrounds when taking the gearbox out.

ho hum these things happen, well to me anyway. Next problem is how to get the new engine from my garage to the garage where the manta is as I decided not to use mine because there is no room to do anything.

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From my expireance if you use the Omega gear box you will need to mod the front X member to sit the engine lower other wise the box sits to high and you will need to rase the top of the tunnel for it to fit.

When I did a 3l Omega V6 in a C, the onwer did not wish to mod the X member, which ment cutting a hole in the bonnet and rasing the tunnel by 3" not the best in my veaw.

In my A, I moded the X member to sit the engine as low as poss. as I did not what to change the lines of the car.

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

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Usual route is to get a hybrid (ie Omega at the gearbox end, manta at the diff end).

Places usually quote about £150 for a prop (or so I'm told).

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Chris,

A few questions mate relating to the Manta C;

When you altered the crossmember what affect did this have on the steering rack?

I intend to use the Vectra plenum but I think it will foul the servo, did you encounter this?

How did you sort the engine mounts?

Could you put a larger image of the crossmember up as the one above is a bit small to see how you did it?

Thanks

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When you altered the crossmember what affect did this have on the steering rack?

It created a lot of bumb steer, but I resoloved this by spacing down the outer tierod ends the same amout as the rack had been lowered.

xmember4.jpg

I moved the servo folwards as it did foul the plenum.

Engine mounts are modified A series ones.

xmember7.jpg

Some more pics of the x member

xmember1.jpg

xmember2.jpg

xmember3.jpg

xmember5.jpg

xmember6.jpg

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Not sure my welding skills are up to something as important as the subframe! I wonder if there is any other options?

Could you put a spacer block between the subframe and the chassis where they are bolted together to widen the relationship between the subframe and the body? Probably haven't thought that through properly but I'm sure you'll tell me why

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Just been looking at this again and noticed the slots in the nose. They look really good :thumbup

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I kinda like them myself. I did this to a manta many years ago and was surprised to see the same thing on this one when I went to pick it up.

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Well did a little bit of work on the car again today and came across a slight problem.

When I got the omega gearbox I picked up the clutch and flywheel from the omega also, I tried to fit the flywheel to my engine(Calibra V6) today and although it seems to be the right outside diameter the center hole is much smaller than the part on the engine that it mounts to(sorry not sure what these bits are called). I take it I will need to get the Calibra flywheel?

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I've got he Vectra plenum as yes it is lower and the Vectra setup is designed for a more responsive acceleration where as the long elephants nose induction of the Omega is designed for more torque (so I'm told). I also have the Vectra GSi loom and ECU which is mapped for more power than the SRi.

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Well did a little bit of work on the car again today and came across a slight problem.

When I got the omega gearbox I picked up the clutch and flywheel from the omega also, I tried to fit the flywheel to my engine(Calibra V6) today and although it seems to be the right outside diameter the center hole is much smaller than the part on the engine that it mounts to(sorry not sure what these bits are called). I take it I will need to get the Calibra flywheel?

Can anyone tell me if that part is removable so I can change it rather than the whole flywheel? Is this center part that the flywheel mounts to what is known as the spigot bearing?

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