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1.9 B-series... getting better equipped


Rick-Manta
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Wing rail? Yikes I think 28938362928276893..John said he had one available but I was too thick to know what a wing rail was, is. I'll have to ask at the next club meet which should be next weekend, yum sirloin steak

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Rick;

Have left and right wing rails which you can have along with the nearly news wings i have put aside for you?

Is there anything else you are after?

The price i am afraid has gone uo to 4 , one well done steak and a lesson or two from the Love God.

LOL

John

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Sirloin or rump? As for the ladies, get 'em to remove their false teeth as they can chaff more than real teeth! Unless you're into that of course

I'm also looking out for a early B front spoiler (broadspeed type) and also a GTE rear spoiler.

Many thanks.

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Going back to the welder generator thing, it's a long shot but I'm planning on purchasing a generator as below:-

AC OUTPUT: 230V-50Hz

RATING POWER: 2.5KVA

PEAK POWER: 2700W

PHASE: SINGLE

MOTOR: 6.5HP, 4 STROKE

....and a MIG MAG welder (wtf is MAG?) as below:-

Frequency(Hz) 50-60

Power voltage(V) 230

Max Absorbed Power(KVA) 3.7

Absorbed Power At 60%(KVA) 1.4

Mains Fuse(A) 16

Power Factor 0.9

Max No-Load Voltage In DC(V) 34.2

Current Range Input DC(A) 60-140

Max Current Output DC 115@15%

Adustment positions 4

It's all meaningless crap to me but do any of you guys know if I've got a hope in hell at running this welder from that genny?

Fank-ewe!

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That genny will be ok on low power settings but will not provide enough juice for the high amp use. Genny max output 2.5 KVA, welder needs 3.7 KVA at full ampage. Just depends on how thick the metal you plan on welding is. Should be fine for sheet steel for body panels etc but you may struggle with thicker stuff such as chassis rails.

Sure someone will correct me if i'm wrong.

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  • 3 weeks later...

maybe this will help:-

power=volts * amps

or amps=power/volts

example 900w on 240volt supply;-

900/240 = 3.75amps ( that how much your little gen can supply)

your intended purchase 2500/240=10.41 amps so it will not run that mig at full chat but should be ok for car bodywork applications.

regards upk

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Thanks for the additional info. Purchase of a motorbike project has put a delay on getting this equipment sorted but with all the overtime I've been doing and my birthday in a few weeks KERCHING! I'll definately have a budget to buy the best I can afford (if that makes sense?!) I may even get my compressor too

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Basically my workshop is only being used for storage at present and any time I'm down there I'm sat on a deckchair chain smoking and doing piss all else. Until I get a permanent power supply I can't really get any more jobs done on the manta (or the forthcoming BSA motorbike). I've been putting off buying one upto now in hope of the landlord switching on my mains or that I'm buying a suitable genny for automotive restoration purposes. Still I'm getting a bit of prep work done on some panels at home, it's a slight progress

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Struth! Getting the paint off is a bit of a trick ain't it?! I've been trying to cheat and I completely covered a wing in Nitromoors which did next to nothing so ended up having to use a disk sander, then mouse and then try to smooth the scratched to death surface by hand.

stripwing.jpg

I've now etch primed the new nearside wing but there are a lot of deep gouges showing through which I'm hoping will disappear with some thick coats of high build primer. The problem being that I can only find acrylic based primer and paint and I'm not sure if I can use acrylic primer with a cellulose overcoat? I'd rather have a fully cellulose paint job but these dark times are making that difficult

etchwing.jpg

I got my generator on order so you'll be able to have a good laugh at my welding before long

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Rick, dont be worried about scratches on the metal, etch prime and give 2 coats of primer (and I would strongly recommend 2k primer as it has a great coverage), flat that back, prime again with 1 coat, speckle coat that (you can buy spray cans of 'flat guide') and sand again and you should get rid of the sratches.

With regards getting the paint off, I used my air DA sander (in the locked position) with 120grit discs, that doesnt take long :thumbup .

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I can't get hold of 2 pack primer either but I'll probably just end up priming with a spray gun rather than cans as there are a couple of places online selling good old toxic paints.

Prob a bit late but you can't beat (in my opinion) those fibre strip discs. Takes off paint and loose rust and does very little to solid metal.

Not too late at all as this is my first panel, I've still got the rest of the car to strip so these fibre disks sound good.

Thanks for the advise.

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Hooray! My generator arrived today (same one that I spec'd earlier) and I'm looking forward to firing it up and getting some real work done. Alas, I'm working 12 hours shifts and the weekend too, so it'll be a while yet I have also ordered my new mig welder so I should hopefully be cooking with gas soon, literally. I was tempted to get a good quality gasless one save having to bother getting bottles but I'm not 100% on the quality of the weld itself and don't want to run the risk on this car. The one I've ordered is different to the one I mentioned in an earlier post, this one is a Sealey 130Amp (30-130A range) jobbie but I'm still a bit concerned about running it from the genny as this one had no mention of kva or whatever and unfortunately I'm not very clued up on welding at all, what the hell is a 'non-live torch'? I think I'll find out a lot the hard way!

My paint prep practise (say that without spitting!) is going disasterously but I'll get there. For some reason the primer finish is very rough and I'm still getting bits showing through which I know will show through the top coat, I'll have to try again from bare metal but I'm not sure about the compatability of the acid etch primer with acrylic primer to eventually have cellulose over that something else to find out the hard way!!

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Thanks mate but I don't want to use 2K at all. All I'm trying to figure now is if I can use a high build acryllic primer with the gloss black cellulose top coat, it'd be easier and cheaper for me to obtain but I don't want my paint falling off when it comes to mopping it back to get the finishing shine. If all else fails an acryllic top coat isn't completely out of the question but because I don't really have much experience I don't know the first thing about painting, what you have to use laquer with, thinner ratios and as I'm spraying indoors with little ventilation, what is mega poisionous!!

Still I'm way off at present as I have a few weeks worth of welding and engine work to do yet, it's just that I want to get as much info on painting as I can get before I jump in at the deep end.

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Er, pretty much everything mate

I'm hoping all the nicotine staining and tar in my lungs will act as a good filter! By the by Clive, have you got any GTE spec rad trays on your shelves? If so, put me down for one I can paypal or whatever you prefer.

Everyone can relax! My new mig welder arrived this morning and to be honest it's the best couple of hundred I've ever spent, especially how it was reduced from over £500! It's three times the size and weight of the gasless jobby but I'm hoping it'll be three times better too!

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always found trusty ol' plain CO2 to be best on the home welders, yet industry always use Argosheild or Cougar.

Poss just cos it gives the versatility to give better weld with mild steel wire on stainless without having to buy and swap for a bottle o' Argon, i don't know tbh.

Fairly sure that there is far less spatter with CO2 heck you should see the spatter that comes off when the Big Industrial Mig is on high when running a thick seam.

Rick when it comes to spraying, simply do your best to keep the place ventilated, if not from a health point of view simply the fact that a flow of air will help stop crap in the air from settling on the paint, but then there is the argument that you can be letting crap in the outside air into the spray area,,,,,

Will drop you an email mate about Rad Trays. and gonna look back down this thread for what welder you have bought, as I recently welded a new roof onto someones Manta using his Clark welder, and it was very very very good once set up nicely, so when I got back home I gave my SIP a damn good kicking and threw it in the bin, worst bit of kit I ever bought, was fine at first, but simply turned crap over the few years i had it.

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I've got 8 hours of constant CO2 to get through first and as bad as the car is I don't think I'll get the chance to try the argon mix with it The Sealey MIG I've just bought is a peach but please note I'm not an experienced welder so it may be a peach to me and a bag of turd to another, for example there is no control nob for the amps there are just four switch settings which I guess is a bit guff for those in the know?!

As for ventilated spraying I could setup an extractor fan since I've boarded up a window in my workshop with MDF, I'll have to check my budget closer to the time I do it (I think with all the overtime forced on me I'm going to have money to burn, nervous breakdown too but well off never the less )

Clive, If you could let me know if you can supply a tray that'd be great, one never has enough shiny stuff in one's engine bay what

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My clarke was pretty good. But then I splashed out on a portamig and that is just a different class to the clarke. (bought portamig partly cos it goes down to 20 amps) I use coogar after a recommendation by a supplier. Never really had any problems with spatter.

Most welders do have switches for amps.

Theres a calculator here: http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/calculator.htm will give you a rough idea of what each setting equates to.

Forum is pretty good n all

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