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Cavalier 4 door


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Bought this not long ago...

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Already repaired the drivers side a post and inner wing as it was gone. Not as bad on the passenger side

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But when i took the sill covers off i found that the rear sills had been bodged will news paper and filler holding steel on.

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The rear inner sill had a patch tacked on then covered in underseal to hide the fact that it wasn't seem welded. So i have removed this completely to make a new one.

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I dont see the point in trying to plate it as it is so easy to remove. It's also not a complex shape so will be easy to re-create.

So left with this until i make and weld in a new inner sill

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I have just bought new outter sills, and a rear quater panel to replace the drivers side.

Does anyone know if manta rear panels are the same as mk1 cavlier items?

Thanks

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Does anyone know if manta rear panels are the same as mk1 cavlier items?

NO! If you look at the two cars side by side you'll see that the Manta has rear lights that 'go round the corner' the tapered end of them is visible from the side. The Cavalier rear lights are just oblongs and are of a different size.

You may be able to get a new rear panel, i'm sure a trader call Midland Car panels or such like had a Cav rear panel,though that was a year ago,this trader does the forth coming restoration show at Stoneliegh.

By the way,i have a friend, Richard Watt,area rep of the Cavalier and Chevette club who has a Copper coloured Cav,sure he'd love to see yours.

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I got the rear quarter from midland but they dont have a rear panel. I understand that the lights wrap around on the manta but i was hoping it was only the rear quarters that were different.

If anyone has or knows where i can get a mk1 cav four door rear panel please let me know.

Thanks

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Unfortunately I’m not after a panel to replace a rotten item. The car has had a rear end accident. Someone has done there best to knock it out but it’s too far gone.

I have a rear quarter but still need the rear panel. I have a manta one but they are not the same.

I’ve just sent membership off to the cavalier and chevette club. I hope someone there can help.

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Thought i'd do a bit more today when i got in from work but gave up because it's bloody cold working on the drive.

De rusted the area for the inner sill and put some rust converter on there.

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But then decided that it will be easier to repair the inner support before i weld in the inner sill. So started making a new panel.

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Fit isn't too bad. So i will cut the rot out tomorrow and weld them both in.

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Welded in the rear inner sill, centre and outer today. Not to happy with the sill. Fit is bad around the arch.

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To make it look right it's going to have to come off and have a whole sill fitted.

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  • 3 weeks later...

While waiting for DHL to come and pick up some front wings i thought i would try and see what the black door cards i have look like.

Better Black or??

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or better standard??

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Also decided to change the cav steering wheel to the mk3 cav item i got with the blue manta.

Problem was that the horn and self cancelling mech didn't mate upto the manta column. So these were not working.

So i just drilled an extra hole for the horn positive lead and removed it from a manta GTE wheel i had lying around. Same for the self cancelling mech. Except here i had to fill the hole in the steering wheel with a grub screw and drill the centre out to fit the mech. Now i have a horn and self cancelling indicators.

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Just going to look for a better wheel now i know it can be made to work.

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It will go in once all the welding etc is finished i think. I dont want to accidently burn it while welding.

Oh can you pm your address as i have lost it and i want to send you that ash tray.

Thanks

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Thanks to madmantamik dropping off a GTE engine this morning i have now started the strip down ready for the conversion to fuel injection for the cavalier.

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Looks to have never been apart before as all the bearings are GM. Everything standard size.

Even the bores still have their cross hatching visible.

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So i'm using this car every day and the fan starts to squeal and then no hot air.

If this happens to you then usually it's just the fact that the shaft has corrosion on it where the bush sits.

So strip it down and you will see the corrosion.

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Then you can see the corrosion on the shaft

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Clean it up...

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put it back together and hey presto a working fan again.

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Also if you are removing the water pump, or anything else for that matter, and a bolt head shears off...

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Clean up the bolt with a wire brush and find a suitable size nut to fit over the stud. Even if the stud is sitting flush this will still work.

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Weld the nut onto the remains of the stud.

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The heat from the welding will loosen the grip on the stud. Then you can just wind out the stud with your socket set.

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This is far easier than trying to drill it out or using a pair of grips on the stud.

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Removed the engine and box out of the blue hatch today. Getting closer to doing the five speed / fuel injection conversion.

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I was thinking about building my own ECU to run a proper EFI system and doing away with the distributor and have coil pack ignition.

Has anyone ever made up a rod to drive the oil pump with maybe a top mounted bearing going where the dissy base is?

When i have done this before i have always retained the dissy because of the issue of driving the oil pump.

Thanks

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I have modified a 2.4 dizzy to run the oil pump. the 2.4 is the best one to do because it has a solid shaft and there is no issues with the flexi drive bit for the advance mechs.

I cut it off just above the large round plate the dizzy retaining bracket goes on and cut the shaft a tiny bit shorter and had a round alloy disc welded to the top of the plate to make it neat and stop any oil coming out the shaft end.

The benefit of this sytem is you can still run a mechanical fuel pump off the dizzy shaft if you are running carbs that do not demand too much fuel.

I used a 2.4 front toothed crank pulley and the sensor that comes on the 2.4 mounted in a home made mount because my timing case was a manta one without the lug for the sensor.

The car runs mint and the stumpy cut off dizzy is not leaky and works the pump fine, and the dizzyless ignition is much better.

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No pics as the car is in brighton now.

I used a 2.4 dizzy because i had one and its useless to me for anything else because it has nothing in it at all except a rotor arm so was easier to strip, the 2 litre ones are a pain because you have to strip all the guts out before you can take the shaft out and then they get stuck because of oil build up in the flexi bit makes them too tight to pass through the bearing.

Also i did not want to kill a good 2 litre dizzy, they are getting thin on the ground down here for me unlike the 2.4 ones that are in every scrapyard i go in !

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