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Cavalier 4 door


Snowy
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Seems that this engine doesn't want me to use parts off it to power another.

Hose outlet on the thermostat housing snapped off this morning.

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Getting something like this out is easy if you take you time.

First make sure you have an easy out that fits the hole. Then heat up the housing with a hot air gun for five minutes.

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The alloy housing will heat up and expand quicker than the steel hose connector so it should break the bond between the two.

Once heated up put your easyout in, gently tapping with a half pound hammer.

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The remove remains of heater hose connector..

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Would these stud removal extracts be of benifit to anyone in the hints and tips area??

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Took the old engine and four speed gear box out today..

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Have to cut the hole for the injection loom and wire the plug into the harness and a few more jobs .....

Any one want a four speed gearbox, drove well with no whines. Also the four speed prop shaft. If not they will go in the bin.

Thanks

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Started splicing in the new sections of loom needed today.

If you are putting a standard gte 2.0L cih into a mk1 cavalier or carbed manta you need to place the plug here.

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Then take an old plug from a scrap car......

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...and strip the wiring back till you are left with this...

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Then just splice it into your loom...

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Red and black to the red and black already in your loom (a permenant live)

Black goes to the coil (switched live)and if like me you had a carbed cav/manta you will need to add this in. As your car will have a white cable. This is a ballasted cable (resistor).

Blue needs adding and extending to where ever you are putting your fuel pump.

Green needs connecting to the green on the coil. Again if you car has a rev counter this will be in the loom you've just cut into. If not you'll have to run one from the coil.

Here is me adding the green, notice that i am adding a rev counter so it goes all the way from the coil to dash.

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If you have a ballasted ignition like me you will find that there is a white cable, with black attched, at the coil.

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The black goes back to the starter motor, this provides a full 12 volts to the coil during starting. You can remove the black all together.

The other end of the white cable is next to the fuse box in the main loom. It attaches to lots of thick black cables. All switched lives.

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You can cut the white off and solder your new, black, cabel here.

I removed the white cable all together. Your choice.

Just pull any extra cables you need through here. You'll see a green for the rev counter, blue for the fuel pump, balck for the ignition live.

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Then tidy up..

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Removed the servo to clean up the chassis rail ans to assist drilling the hole for the fuel injection harness.

Servo removed

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Use template to mark the hole to be cut.....note: it's not quite in the right position for the photo. Wouldn't stay in place without being held.

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One hole cut and ready...

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Snowy, did you change the fuses over when you were doing the wiring? 'Cos I can only see white and red fuses there where there should be some yellows. Hate to think there were over-rated fuses in there that might cause nasty scorch marks - if no worse - on your mega-project.

BJ

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I haven't added any extra fuses. It doesn't need them. There is very little current drawn from the permenant and switched lives i have added in. The bulk of the power being taken directly from the battery, through the injection relay, as in a standard GTE.

The one thing i haven't checked is that the car had the right rated fuses in to start with. This i will check tomorrow.

Added the fuel injection harness this morning, not much else done today.

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Cleaned up the fuel pump mount.

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Painted around the gearbox tunnel top

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I haven't wired in the fuel pump, and yes it's the only part of the injection system that is fused.

What i normally do is put an in line blade type fuse in the wire feed by the ecu. Saves trying to add into the already useless fuse box.

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Couldn't decide if i should remove the four speed gearbox mounts and fit the gte five speed mounts or mod the gearbox cross member.

I was feeling lazy today so i modded the cross member....

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The just doing lots of little jobs before i put the engine and box in.

like sealing the new tunnel top..

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Modding the cross member is the easiest way, I normally do it like that because then you dont have to go into the whole hassle of removing the old mounts, removing the mounts from a car with a 5 speed tunnel and welding the 5 speed mounts onto the correct places. the place where they were then needs a tidy up and the welding up of the 2 dozen spot weld holes is a mission, plus you then have to spot weld the 5 speed mounts in place too !

Nope, mod the cross member every time !

In fact i am having a load of brackets laser cut to make new 5 speed selector mechanisms that will allow you to put a 5 speed in a 4 speed car with no tunnel mods at all. I will be doing the Ascona soon and wanted to do the conversion but still retain the standard look inside, the new levers will have a short shift action but will still be long sticks with the old knob on them.

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Thanks for the comments guys. I fitted the engine and gearbox this morning. No pics because it's just not that interesting.

My modded mount fitted perfectly. So just the fuel pipes, pump and injection system i can fire it up. I hope

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I love the work that is going on with this car, its going to be a real sleeper when its done, bigger engine and modern car go in an old looking shell.

The cold does put people off working but once you get welding/grinding/sanding or spannering you soon warm up. I did a load of wax spraying yesterday and hot wax hitting cold car soon hardens so it does not drip on your head as much, thats a bonus in my book !

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