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2ltr cih engine, can i run twin 40's


sean999
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hi

i am after running twin 40s on my cav coupe which is the 2 ltr cam in head engine. i have looked at the haynes manual which shows the inlet and exhaust manifolds bolting together.

i have seen an inlet manifold on ebay of all places which claims to be for a manta, so should fit??

the item number is 360123509505.....this ends in 5 days time and isn't too far from where i live. i haven't got a clue if it will fit and do the job.

can someone help and have a look at it and see what you think?

thanks......sean999

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Sean999

Looked at the manifold and it will be fine for 40s/45s. If your going to run 40s you will probably need to get hold of the biggest chokes you can fit into them as well. I ran 40s on a 2.0 with a 234 kent cam and the chokes had been bored to the largest size possible for the carb body and they were just about coping.

HTH

Chris

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if you are thinking of putting twin forties on a cih engine you will need to think about moving the brake servo away, put a master cylinder direct to bulk head and make up a remote servo brake system or dont use a servo as this gives you more room for the rear carb. if you want twin carbs you could make one out of a standard single carb manifold and fit twin dmtl or compatable carbs, you could try to find an old twin Dellorto DRLA manifold as fitted to the old group 4 ascona rally cars.

other alternative is fit a DGAS carb and get it jetted on a rolling road.

hope this has not put you off

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not sure what to do, i have limited knowledge and budget. ideally i would like to be getting 130-140 bhp, just how achievable is that? i would like to keep the retro /old school look, and avoid the obvious red top route (for now anyway, money and dont know how to go about fitting it are the main factors)

i dont want to be throwing good money away on something that is the wrong part or wont work properly.

the other thing engine wise is that i am now somewhat confused?? i thought i had a 2 ltr cam in head engine, its stamped 20s on the block, but then looking at the haynes manual its suggesting its ohc.

somebody show me the light.......

sean999

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Right you have CIH engine, buy a modified head of shuviteer, put a DGAS carb on with manual choke (capri spares can supply) get the timing spot on and use a gte dizzy ( with ignition coil)with vac advance disconected get a decent exhaust system and get carb jetted on a rolling road. that would do for now

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To be fair all the advice you have been given is very good.

But if you have the money to buy good 45 DCOEs etc then if i were you i would hunt down a cavalier sri with the 2L SEH engine in it, or carlton with the 2L SE engine. Carlton comes with a suitable gearbox.

Then find the conversion bits you need and stick the SEH engine in.

You will have the performance you are after with complete drivability. Great cold starting, easy to drive in town but will go like hell when you want it to.

Sorry but a 2L CIH on 45s just wont give you that. You'll also have half decent fuel econemy with the SEH, SE engine.

If you do this converting to an XE will be a easy when you have the money.

If you really want a CIH on carbs then go for it. All the advice is spot on.

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Sean999

I have a race motor that was built up from a std bottom end (Pistons, crank, flywheel, etc) that was fitted with a 2.0 head with 45mm valves with the ports smoothed up, a 234 kent cam, vernier timing gear and a std 2.0 dizzy with electronic ignition. The exhaust manifild was std , std down pipe to a 2.5" home made system. the carbs fitted were 40's with the biggest chokes with k&n filters. This was rolling roaded at 157Bhp. To fit a different motor will probably cost you more than it will to gather the above bits n pieces. If you get the motor lightened and balenced it will rev up quicker. The motor i have wasn't but it was pretty quick and could see off 16v red tops just because of its extra torque.

As for the servo problem all you need to do is make amount to fit to the bulkhead in place of the servo, get a length of thickish tube and cut it to a length that clears the carbs when fitted to the engine. You then need another plate that your servo can mount to welding on the end of the tube. You need to make up a long rod to go from the pedal to the servo/master cylinder and a couple of support brackets. This puts the servo at the front of the engine bay on the drivers side so you will need to re plumb the brake system. I think you can fit a shorter master cylinder but i don't know what it is, can anyone enlighten me?

HTH

Chris

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Not trying to disagree or cause any arguments...

But when you price up a decent pair of 40 or 45 DCOEs, manifold, big valve head, head gasket set, any head work or block work needed, then cost wise i think there is not much in it.

If anything when i have done engine conversions using a doner car i have ended up in profit. It all depends what you are willing to do. If you take the GTE hatch i bought for £200 plus £40 for collecting. I then went on to sell nearly £600 worth of parts i didn't need.

Anyway. Fitting the 2L SEH or SE is a bolt in job. There are no special skills required to fit it. Even easier if you have a manta GTE which already has a feed and return on the fuel line. I know you have a cav coupe but a GTE coupe fuel tank bolts straight in and running fuel lines is easy. If you want i can post pics up of my mk1 cav set up.

I actually think the cost of the conversion parts would be less than the list of parts above for the CIH. Also you are half way there for when you want to bolt the XE or ecotec engine in.

I just think that you should decide what is is you really want from the car. Then weigh up the pros and cons of each idea. You can spend a lot of money on a CIH to get big power, Money you might have better spent on a different engine.

But it's a personal thing. I like the CIH engine which is why i kept one in my Mk1 Cavalier. Just adding the manta GTE fuel injection. But i have also fitted cars with the 2L SEH, 1.8 E.

They are fantastic engines. I rate them higher than the XE for bang for buck. A little head work on the 2L and you're easily upto 150 bhp with a nice smooth engine willing to pull from low revs right through.

What ever you decide. Make sure it is the right choice for you.

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guys, thanks for all of that help and advice, i haven't been in the club 5 minutes, never met any of you... i am overwhelmed by the response.......where's the kleenex!!

seriously though, there is a lot of food for thought. i guess its still very much early days yet....and i am pretty much wanting to run before i can walk.

when all said and done there is never a time limit set upon me to get it done. chances are i will be havin the engine out to tidy the engine bay. so this may well provide the opportunity to make some well thought decisions.

sean999

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