dtm Posted November 30, 2009 Share Posted November 30, 2009 (edited) Hi lads, ive a 1.8 back axle that i want to take the half shafts out of (for rear disc conversion) there is no way in hell that they are coming out (even with a very good sliding hammer!) is it true that i CANNOT use heat around the hub end of the casing beacuse if i did i would burn and ruin an inner oil seal? any other ideas to take the buggers out? thanks for the replies lads! dtm Edited November 30, 2009 by dtm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mantadoc Posted November 30, 2009 Share Posted November 30, 2009 Hi lads, ive a 1.8 back axle that i want to take the half shafts out of (for rear disc conversion) there is no way in hell that they are coming out (even with a very good sliding hammer!) is it true that i CANNOT use heat around the hub end of the casing beacuse if i did i would burn and ruin an inner oil seal? any other ideas to take the buggers out? thanks for the replies lads! dtm No warrantly implied or given but.......... I take it you are removing the half shaft to remove the brake back plate? If you remove the back plate you will still need a plate as a spacer of the same thickness, plus to shim it all up etc. Depending what you are doing you could just cut the back plate down in situ and leave it assembled, especially if you are doing the escort disk / granada caliper route. The rubber seal on the outboard side is an O ring in a groove in the bearing. Of course you might damage the seals inside the bearing with heat. Or even ruin the tempering of the shaft / lock ring. Maybe even warp the case if too much. In the old days I used to use an old rim and two sledge hammers on opposite sides at same time. Pounding one side is nowhere near as efficient as balanced force. You don't need a good slide hammer you need a REALLY HEAVY one. I have used large timbers instead of 14lb sledge hammers for their momentum on occasion. Even this works a treat compared to brute force in not quite the right place. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stagcar Posted December 1, 2009 Share Posted December 1, 2009 No warrantly implied or given but.......... I take it you are removing the half shaft to remove the brake back plate? If you remove the back plate you will still need a plate as a spacer of the same thickness, plus to shim it all up etc. Depending what you are doing you could just cut the back plate down in situ and leave it assembled, especially if you are doing the escort disk / granada caliper route. The rubber seal on the outboard side is an O ring in a groove in the bearing. Of course you might damage the seals inside the bearing with heat. Or even ruin the tempering of the shaft / lock ring. Maybe even warp the case if too much. In the old days I used to use an old rim and two sledge hammers on opposite sides at same time. Pounding one side is nowhere near as efficient as balanced force. You don't need a good slide hammer you need a REALLY HEAVY one. I have used large timbers instead of 14lb sledge hammers for their momentum on occasion. Even this works a treat compared to brute force in not quite the right place. I have done one many years ago with a sledge hammer and a strong bit of chain! wrap a bit of chain through an old rim as close to the middle as pos then wrap the other end of the chain around the hammer this is basicly like a big slide hammer action with out the slide it tends to give an equal amount of wack on each side but dont make the chain to log or it will whip and you will lose wack power. it worked for me when i needed to do the rear wheel bearing for mot. Cheers Derek Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dtm Posted December 1, 2009 Author Share Posted December 1, 2009 I have done one many years ago with a sledge hammer and a strong bit of chain! wrap a bit of chain through an old rim as close to the middle as pos then wrap the other end of the chain around the hammer this is basicly like a big slide hammer action with out the slide it tends to give an equal amount of wack on each side but dont make the chain to log or it will whip and you will lose wack power. it worked for me when i needed to do the rear wheel bearing for mot. Cheers Derek thanks a million for that lads. More weetabix needed so....... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
upk Posted December 1, 2009 Share Posted December 1, 2009 never come across one a slide hammer could not shift before! maybe i have just been lucky.............wheres my lottery ticket?? Maybe a daft question but you have removed the 4 bearing plate retaining screws first?? just a thought! upk http://www.visualopel.com/Opel-Manta/Rear-Axle/rear-axle.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retro Power Posted December 8, 2009 Share Posted December 8, 2009 I have come across a few that would not shift, and certainly I have always found a BIG slide hammer better than any improvisation of wheels and chains or sledgehammers., the direction of force is just not right if its not dead co-axial with the shaft. Yes, if you heat the end of the axle you MAY damage the O-ring, and need to replace it, but then you should do that if you have the shaft out anyway! You would have to heat it a hell of a lot to damage the oil seal in the bearing. Also, not much point clouting the hell out of it to avoid damaging the oil seal with heat, as you then risk trashing the bearing anyway!! I recently stripped an A-series axle for rebuild that looked like it had lived in a ditch for ten years, and heat was the only way to shift the halfshafts on that. It didn't damage anything else, and although I was replacing the bearings anyway, they could have gone back in if I had wanted to use them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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