Clutch Pivot Adjustment

[dynamytedan]

can anyone advise me on the procedure for clutch arm pivot adjustment ?

seem to recall it needs to pertrude 13mm or somthing , but what side do you measure?

standard settings may not apply as im using a pot fly wheel and calibra turbo LET clutch and manta 18s bearing .

so any general advice would be good too if anyone has done anything similar

[mantadoc]

It's all about adjusting the pivot point to give the required movement without adjusting the cable nuts.

See haynes manual

TBH I think most people just wind up the cable as simpler I always have.

[cam.in.head]

as described above & in the haynes book the normal way is to adjust the pivot bolt (nice fidly job!)iuntil the measurement between lower end of clutch fork & back of bellhousing is at a stated measurement. as the clutch wears the arm moves closer to the back of the hole it comes through in the bellhousing & if never touched will be hard up against the back preventing any slack in the bearing & wearing it out & pressing on the clutch fingers.

so if yours is a combination of different parts it would be best to adjust so as to ensure the arm is clear of the back when released & clear of the front when pressed. sort of a mid way setting.

THEN ONCE ARM IS SET cable can be adjusted to give correct pedal height.(if req)

[dynamytedan]

at some point a few years ago i mooved the pivot to compensate for a worn clutch as there was no more thread on the cable to take up , soon after the cable snapped so i put a spare on , a gte one not an 18s i assume they are slightly different lengths??. had to use some washers to take up the slack . a right ol rush bodge job , but it worked .

some months later the pedal got low , so in a rush i stupidly added another waher to the cable to get me going .eventually i noticed the pivot nut came loose , pedal got very low , lost the lock nut and i fiddled about for ages trying to get it right (you know how tight it is under there) .

managed to get it into a position where it worked ok but still felt wrong somhow lost patience with it and left it at that .

looking at the pivot and bearing while the engine was out today, it looked like it was screwed out a long way , the bearing hanging half way over the sleeve it rides on at its furthest point .

a bit dificult to judge , but it looked wrong anyway

put the 18s and let clutch and flywheels on the table , put a long bar across to see if there was any thickness diference , the let clutch and pot flywheel were no more than a mm thicker .

engine went in easy and mated up without much of a struggle , clutch pedal slightly higher than before , still driveable .

so ive got a new 18s cable now and will put it on asap and adjust it all properly as per what Mantadoc and caminhead advised . cheers for the info i think ive got a pretty good idea now .

Edited May 1, 2010 by dynamytedan

[dynamytedan]

had a go at it today . fitted a new clutch cable , the correct one i believe .

this new cable inner was about 2 inches longer than the old GTE one .

adjusted the pivot untill the cable end of the arm was in the middle of the hole (not right over one way like it was)

connected the cable .

had to adjust the nut right up to the end to get the pedal in the right place .

so went back to the pivot , mooved that a bit to try and get some adjustment back for the cable . but would have ended up wrong like before .

so added a thick washer again to the cable before the eye on the gearbox just so theres some scope to move the cable later on .

theres somthing not quite right here , hence the need for the washer ,but im not sure what . could there be somthing missing at the bulkhead end ? or just the new cluch and flywheel ?

[cam.in.head]

the end of the arm needs to be not in the middle but nearer to the back(but not up against it. )so that when you push the pedal it pulls it forward. setting it central may mean that it will be too close to the FRONT when pressed. on mine when set correct it is approx 10mm from the back..the bulkhead fitment is a large metal damper sleeve into a rubber on the bulkhead with a large washer around it.(they often split in two).the cable has one smaller washer & then a rubber into the back of the damper.at the fork end it has one washer into the bellhousing.

[dynamytedan]

the end of the arm needs to be not in the middle but nearer to the back(but not up against it. )so that when you push the pedal it pulls it forward. setting it central may mean that it will be too close to the FRONT when pressed. on mine when set correct it is approx 10mm from the back..the bulkhead fitment is a large metal damper sleeve into a rubber on the bulkhead with a large washer around it.(they often split in two).the cable has one smaller washer & then a rubber into the back of the damper.at the fork end it has one washer into the bellhousing.

ahh bugger lol . i just read what you said properly and its just dawned on me what i should have been looking at .

after fitting the cable somthing was not quite right so i did moove the pivot again but not that much so its still in the middleish . right got it now . loose the washer and moove the pivot untill the cable nut sits more in the middle of the adjustment(for correct pedal height) and at the same time making sure the arm operates nicely/evenly in the hole .

cheers m8

Edited May 3, 2010 by dynamytedan

[cam.in.head]

where the nice shiny new cable fits into the large steel damper on the bulkhead it looks like its missing the rubber insert. prob wont matter that much just gives a bit more on cable length