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Engine Wont Start


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prob a bit late now but when we rebuilt my brother's I200 we had a similar problem. I have not read the full thread so bear with me if I missed that you've already checked this, but we found that in the coil/amp mini loom, a wire had corroded and broken INSIDE its insulation! All looked perfect on the outside, wasn't even on a bend, but there was a gap in the copper, but the wire looked fine on the outside.Got a bit of voltage as there was some condictivity in the old corroded away bit of copper!

Edited by Retro Power
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  • 2 weeks later...

Interesting test results:

Wired in all the stuff you sent phil, so basically just adding the ignition power and earth. Turn dist. by hand and lots of pretty sparks, yay! B)

So, plug in my distributor to your coil and module. Nothing.

Used your distributor, your coil, my module. Nothing.

Used your distributor, my coil, your module. Nothing.

(used your wiring all the time)

So do I, by complete coincidence, have a defective distributor (refurbished at cost of 120 quid), a defective module (brand new) and a defective coil (NOS)?

All earths have been well checked. Not started engine yet, as rotor arm on 2.2 dist is different size to manta one. Went to halfords and got another so will hopefully have engine fired up tomorrow. I guess I need to replace everything.....

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Interesting test results:

Wired in all the stuff you sent phil, so basically just adding the ignition power and earth. Turn dist. by hand and lots of pretty sparks, yay! B)

So, plug in my distributor to your coil and module. Nothing.

Used your distributor, your coil, my module. Nothing.

Used your distributor, my coil, your module. Nothing.

(used your wiring all the time)

So do I, by complete coincidence, have a defective distributor (refurbished at cost of 120 quid), a defective module (brand new) and a defective coil (NOS)?

All earths have been well checked. Not started engine yet, as rotor arm on 2.2 dist is different size to manta one. Went to halfords and got another so will hopefully have engine fired up tomorrow. I guess I need to replace everything.....

Did you try my stuff all back together at the end and get sparks to make sure nothing got fried in testing / still works?

I would do the tests you did above, but after testing your dizzy reconnect mine and after trying your coil reconnect mine to make sure you don't have a fault show up in between that confuses things.

If I was you dude I would be tempted to fit my dizzy, amp etc and run your car up with that too just to make sure the world is well. Hearing your engine run will make you smile.

One thing I did notice is that amp I sent you is different from usual. I assumes the same pin outs but might be worth checking. Even so I would expect my amp and wiring as a "matched pair" to work with your coil or dizzy or both if both good.

The black wire to red wire terminal might be a bit loose.

Basically though if you prove my setup working again then try your dizzy, then try my dizzy straight after without moving stuff.

Don't forget that if using my wiring module and dizzy that you will need to add an earth for your coil if you didn't bolt it to my plate otherwise the spark can't run to earth so maybe that is where you might have an issue???????

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My module and coil are bolted to inner wing. Earths are good. Retested all your stuff again and it worked. Got it fitted and will get new rotor arm on it today to try start the engine. If that works don't suppose you'd sell it all? ;)

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My module and coil are bolted to inner wing. Earths are good. Retested all your stuff again and it worked. Got it fitted and will get new rotor arm on it today to try start the engine. If that works don't suppose you'd sell it all? ;)

Well if the battery was connected to the inner wing for earth at the same time as my stuff was connected to the terminals on the battery then trying your coil etc they should all have had a common earth.

Re Sale, would prefer not to as that is my only completely perfect uncut original loom. I also sold one to someone on here a while ago to help out so I have two onmy car (built in DR) and only the one you have for spare.

I aren't in any great hurry for it back though.

Here's one for you. You can test your coil's reistance wuth a multimeter.

If it was me I might put a live and an earth direct to your coil (nothing else connected to it except the coil lead somewhere near an earth) and then snatch one of the wires away to see if the coil sparks.

If you are going to run it for a few hours my amp could do with some thermal paste under it as I didn't have any new when I assembled that lump for you

Could work out expensive for you postage wise but I would test all your stuff if you posted it to me. If it is the wiring I have a loom I could repair.

I tend to think you must be either unlucky or missing something for both coil and dizzy not to work with my wiring and amp.

Did you test by only using one of your bit at a time with mine?

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Tried just one at a time. Could accept the module, and even the coil misbehaving but I had that distributor refurbished and it looks identical to yours.

Got all your stuff mounted on car properly and engine is almost starting. Fuel pressure might not have been right, but it was backfiring. Need to double check timing as it may not have been spot on. Had to leave for my nieces bday party and not back at it for a fortnight, so hopefully have it running fine then.

I guess same thermal grease used for computer processors is fine?

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I guess same thermal grease used for computer processors is fine?

That's what I would use. Don't use too much and don't over tighten.

The amp I sent is an unusual one but even if the pin outs were different the amp and wiring would work with your dizzy and coil if they were good.

Does your coil have the pin terminal moulded in? If they are backwards it can cause it to now work although still doesn't answer the dizzy issue.

I might have a spare "pickup" for a dizzy somewhere.

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  • 2 weeks later...

So close its annoying!

After timing up the ignition still wasnt starting. Then I noticed (with no small amount of embarressment) that the firing order was wrong ^_^

Sorted that, set the fuel pressure higher and its so close to starting! You can hear it all firing, but it doesnt quite catch and keep running after you release the ignition key. Guess I'll need to check the fuel mixture on the carbs.

Shame I didn't go with injection now.

Course I now have more to worry about after a mishap involving axle stands, gravity and the side of the garage = one truly ****ed wing and damaged spoiler. I swear this car doesnt want to get on the road :angry:

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If it was mine I would:

Stick battery on charge

Take rocker cover off, rotate front pulley to TDC, if both valves aren't staying closed on no 1 rotate the front pulley once more and check TDC both closed.

Take dizzy cap off and set it static timing via rotor arm and notch in dizzy body.

Replace rocker cover

Clean plugs and replace

Make sure you are going right direction around dizzy, 1-3-4-2

Take battery of charge

Clean terminals and bolt up

Take air cleaner off

Consider making sure Live to amplifier is good and not a resistance wire by adding one to the battery direct

Can of easy start or WD40, foot on throttle no choke and try.

I definitely wouldn't have someone spray into the inlet while cranking in case of back fire......

But it isn't mine and I don't recommend this.

Good lusk........

If you have a good consistent spark then........

Either you have no compressions

Are lighting it at the wrong time

bad mixture

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its a long time since i worked on a CIH but dont you set the timing on cam on number 4 not 1. if you get a spark and fuel try plug leads vise/versa.

dont shoot me just a thing in back of my head said that :o

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its a long time since i worked on a CIH but dont you set the timing on cam on number 4 not 1. if you get a spark and fuel try plug leads vise/versa.

dont shoot me just a thing in back of my head said that :o

You're right, it's something like when the crank pulley is on TDC and cam dot at the bottom near the mark then it's at the top of the exhaust stroke on no 1, hence the rotate another 360 as this is one of the nuances of the CIH I never knew to recent years as I always checked both valves are closed. Notch on the dizzy body is by 1 though so hard to do static by 4

It's one of those problems easily avoided with a visual check

However, the ball in the flywheel by the pointer is good but no one really uses it to time as it's nearly impossible to see on a built up engine with exhaust. The static timing above has always been adequate to run a car up to use a timing light.

strokes.jpg

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Shug,

Stupid question, but are the spark leads on for correct firing order? (1-3-2-4)

Just seen this in the other thread, is that a typo? Thought 1-3-4-2 as my post above.......................... Might this explain your current issue?

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Shug,

Just seen this in the other thread, is that a typo? Thought 1-3-4-2 as my post above.......................... Might this explain your current issue?

or being hungover the other problem :lol:
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or being hungover the other problem :lol:

Hangover was the least of my problems this weekend.

oops.JPG

oops2.JPG

I must stress neither of these were down to a hangover. The hangover was a result of attempting to ease the pain of it all!

That was a typo about firing order. I did check haynes manual repeatedly whilst checking leads.

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Have you tried new plugs.?

Reason I say this is years ago I struggled to get my 2.0 CIH fired up after a rebuild. It would catch and almost fire but then die. I was getting fuel and a spark. The spark plugs were getting wet with all the attempts so I kept removing them and drying them off.

After trying everything I could think of.. ignition timing, cam timing, compression. I bought a new set of plugs (the old ones were in good condition). I never thought it would work but sure enough after fitting the plugs it fired 1st crack and ticked over as smooth as anything.

Worth a go if not tried already.... Apologies if this has come up already, I didn't read all the previous posts :lol:

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Hangover was the least of my problems this weekend.

oops.JPG

oops2.JPG

I must stress neither of these were down to a hangover. The hangover was a result of attempting to ease the pain of it all!

That was a typo about firing order. I did check haynes manual repeatedly whilst checking leads.

OH SH*T mate ,have you got a spare wing.My toolbox falls over if i open too many drawers(although it is made by fisher price) but dont tell wife as she got it me for xmas <_<

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  • 2 weeks later...

It's alive, it's alive!!!

Lack of fuel. Lrgely down to my assumption that paying a wad of cash to have carbs rebuilt for my 2.2 would have them ready to go. Changed idle mixture, drilled out main jets, dash of carb cleaner and away it went! Sounds rough as hell so still some fine tuning to do, but just so damn relieved to finally having it running, not bothered by the sound!

This project has been one long learning curve and many thanks to all that have helped me up it!

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Thank dog!!!!!

Now work out what you need to replace in the ignition stuff, let me know if it's the little loom, so we can get you running consistetly and I can have my spares back ;)

(don't worry no rush)

Also take the wing off and push that dent out as soon as poss. Mild steel has a memory so sooner pushed out better the repair.

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