monzta Posted June 26, 2011 Author Share Posted June 26, 2011 Was just out in the workshop to take a look and i can now see that there indeed are 3 layers of sheet metal ... I have made the following plan. I need to change the outer sill first, and make sure that part is done properly (if i remove everything i am affraid that the car will collapse!) When the outer sill is fixed i will remove the entire inner sill so i can replace the floorpiece with the new part. Finally i will mount the old inner sill again and fabricate the missing rusty parts. Is that the way to do it you think? I am pretty sure that the floor piece inside the sill will be very rusty as well.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monzta Posted June 27, 2011 Author Share Posted June 27, 2011 (edited) Ok, so i´m still waiting for my parts from Germany so i can fix the floor, so i decided to take off the front wing on the same side and take a look. Amazingly no holes Well almost no holes, there is a little at the footrest and a very small hole behind the top of the door (but i think that has been drilled years back and has rusted a litlle during the years). This could have been a nightmare, but actually it is pretty good. It has been covered with some rubber stuff.. A very small hole just over the door, i will wait doing that untill i get the door removed. Starting to grind it down, no need to change this metal, it looks really healthy. You can see it begins to look bad at the corners of the foot rest / wheel well and i will need to fix this. But i will wait until my new floor is in the car as some big parts of the footrest will need changing after the floor is in.. No wonder it hasn´t been attacked by rust here. I went throug a layer of rubber coating, a layer of bronze paint (the original car colour) a layer of yellow primer, and a layer of white base before i saw any metal. Opel did know how to make cars back then Low gloss black Hammerite, some of the best you can use for this sort of work as it really stays on there. And it continues to be soft forever so it won´t chip off for anything. Oh i really need that jig now...! By the way i could see as i grinded away that the front wing mounting part has been changed before. That will be +10 years ago as we haven´t done it. More to follow I´m bored as i don´t have my jig, it really pisses me off.. So i started doing some calculations regarding the wheels that will go on the car, as i will go absolutely apeshit baserk on the car regarding the rims and lowering.. My plan is to use 19" rears and 18" fronts and have them running all up under the arches (like the photoshopped car on my signature). The plan is to use BMW M5 rims as they are very cheap, and easy to obtain in both sizes. But as with everything else, there is no easy way A 19" wheel with 235/30-19 will have a diameter of 623mm. I calculate with a width of 240mm. The 19" M5´s are either 8,5 inch wide ET12 or 9,5 inch wide ET20 or something. Anyways, i will never be able to fit the 9,5 inch version, so i will be using the 8,5 inch ones. First of all the 623mm wheel will only just fit. So far so good. But the ET12 is a problem. A real big one acutally. I was planning to use the B series rear axle i have on the car now, but for 8,5 inch wide alloys to be inside the arches it is just too wide. So i guess it´s back to an A series rear axle (bugger).. So if i wish to keep the 3,44 ratio i will need to change the differential... Secondly the wheel won´t touch the inner arch if i use the B series rear axle, but it most definatly will when using a A series axle. So (i had planned for this anyways) i need to reconstruct the inner arch to be more square. Third, my easy solution of putting in a set of shortened Commodore B axles is not an option if i will be going for a A series rear axle. The axles are just too long. They allready need to be shortened by 5 mm per side to be in the B series rear axle, and another 25mm will be a real problem. So i will have to take the original A series axles and have them redrilled to 5x120mm pcd. (crap). Fourth and final issue regarding the rear wheels are the lowering. I need the car to be as low as possible as the large wheels will make it look like a 4x4. There are 40mm springs in the car now and that is no good at all. I will need at least 100mm springs in the rear and some VERY hard and shortened shocks to make sure the wheel wont touch metal anywhere..! I´m looking forward to see what problems i will encounter on the front end of the car if i use 18" there So nothing easy about doing a A series custom car Edited June 27, 2011 by monzta Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monzta Posted June 29, 2011 Author Share Posted June 29, 2011 (edited) Just a small update. I cancelled my original order from Leidinger, and ordered some more Just want to share my experience. I ordered: 2 x outer side sills 2 x jacking points 1 x floor front left 2 x rear outer sills ( behind rear wheel) 1 x rear panel Total costs 519 Euros. Asked him per email if he could offer me a small discount and i got the lot for 500 Euro free of freight charge (and we are talking 2 packets here that is at the very least 100 Euro in freight i have saved). That i think is a VERY handsome price, i can only recommend him, he has a super service, and he is not afraid of striking a deal Thats something you gotta like Edited June 29, 2011 by monzta Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gsi marc Posted June 30, 2011 Share Posted June 30, 2011 (edited) Nice a series monzta keep the pics coming i do like to see home built projects Edited June 30, 2011 by gsi marc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monzta Posted July 4, 2011 Author Share Posted July 4, 2011 Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mantaray Posted July 4, 2011 Share Posted July 4, 2011 That i think is a VERY handsome price, i can only recommend him, he has a super service, and he is not afraid of striking a deal Thats something you gotta like yes, I have to agree. I also sorted out a good deal with them for my floor pans and they only took 3 days to deliver them. :thumbup Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monzta Posted July 6, 2011 Author Share Posted July 6, 2011 yes, I have to agree. I also sorted out a good deal with them for my floor pans and they only took 3 days to deliver them. :thumbup Maybe he would be interested in a discount deal with omoc? Anyways, still sitting around waiting for my Jig and my spares from Germany, so i decided to take care of that nasty edge around the boot. But my welder startet acting weird and when i had finally solved the issue the day was almost gone, but i did manage to get one small piece done, and even though it isnt much, i am still pretty proud of the result That is a bastard to fix. This is the largest area to do, there is a small hole just over the locking mechanism, and a bit 1/3rd the size of this to the left (wich was the first one i did. Rusty stuff out! Nice fresh piece of sheet metal. Worked this out by hand and was quite pleased, thought it would be worse Bit of welding, not my best work to date, but it´s been a while Ugly welds yes, but it fits like a glove And what else do we have grinders for Thats it for that side Preparing the other side for cutting. Have heard that using tape will make cutting better and easyer so let´s give that a go Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monzta Posted July 9, 2011 Author Share Posted July 9, 2011 So boot lid part 2 What a nasty piece ! Part taken out, new part to be made.. Actually kind of proud of this as i don´t have a bending machine (don´t know what that is called in English), and this part is made by hand Pretty straight, and the rest can get a couple of whacks with the old hammer when welded on As you can see from the old cutout piece it´s actually not far from the original. A quick fit, needed to grind it and adjust bits here and there, but the part can be used Welded it in, needed to make some adjustments on the way with that hammer, as it crumbles quite alot on that place of the car when welding... So filler will be needed! Welds grinded Filler applied The other side got some filler as well. Not the worst job i´ve ever done, but not the best either. Its getting back to me step by step Next job is a hole just over the boot lid locking mechanism (same as the other 2 places) but that is just a small hole, shouldn´t be to difficult. Moving on to the boot next, there are some serious holes here, and i´m going to be using the cardboard method here. All the original welds are more or less gone, so this require some creative fabbing I reckon i will get alot of stuff sorted from monday so will update again in a couple of days. Cheers! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gsi marc Posted July 10, 2011 Share Posted July 10, 2011 Nice job, My hatch was bad around seal area, one of those jobs that will never be seen when boots shut but still needs sorting Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monzta Posted July 10, 2011 Author Share Posted July 10, 2011 Nice job, My hatch was bad around seal area, one of those jobs that will never be seen when boots shut but still needs sorting Exactly right there was a hole here even when it was running 10 years ago, but at that time it was only the size of a small coin. Even cut out a repair piece back then from a Ascona A that we scrapped to use as a spare, but years does take their toll, and now the coin-hole was 3 individual holes But that´s the name of the game Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnboy Posted July 11, 2011 Share Posted July 11, 2011 Good progress there Monzta, liking the new picture at the foot of your posts, is that the look your aiming for? very tidy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monzta Posted July 11, 2011 Author Share Posted July 11, 2011 Thanks John Yeah just made that one in photoshop That is what i am aiming for basically allthough it will have a more modern twist with other headlights, frontgrille (LENK) and black bumpers, maybe a frontspoiler from Zender instead, i´m not really sure yet. But regarding the wheel and tyre fitment that is excactly what i am aiming for Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monzta Posted July 12, 2011 Author Share Posted July 12, 2011 What is better than summer holidays After a good check i decided to leave the boot area until i get the jig in place. There is really alot of work there and i need to be able to access the underneeth of the car as well, so i left that there. So instead i moved up to the front yesterday and startet on the inner front wing. It has really been bugging me since i grinded and painted some of the good metal there. And it seemed of course that i need a little more than i thought. This is the part that has been bugging me a long time now. It seems like a small hole but it really wasn´t. This is one of the places that the car has been welded together by opel, welding 3 layers of sheet metal together (an absolute reciepe for disaster).. Wanted to make sure i got it all out, so i cut a fair amount of plate out of the car. A nice handcraftet piece But nothing is never that simple as you can see on the next pic. Needed to cut alot, and release the crossmember located in front of the A post. It was really a big operation for a little piece like this. Left it here, next will be to remoce most of the foot rest as this is pretty much gone, this will also give the new floor some nice fresh metal to stick to Will also need to change some big parts on the firewall as you can see, but that should be pretty straight forward. Left the car here, as i decided ye old workshop needed a fresh makeover. It isn´t the biggest workshop but there´s room for a Manta, a cup of coffee, and a welder, and what else do you need As i moved everything out and began arranging my stuff i found some extremly old pieces of tools, that i thought some of you might would find amusing This is a automatic screwdriver back from before there was batteries or something When you push it down it the end turns around I have never used it but i can´t get myself to throw it out Yes it says made in USSR Theese two i have used ALOT. I got them from my granddad who used to repair boats at the docks. The amazing thing is that they never EVER rust ! And they are also pretty lightweight. Don´t know what they are made of and i am not to sure that i want to find out Maybe a Geigercounter would go apeshit when measuring theese two So here´s a pic of ye old workshop Used to be a carport, and its very old. Needed to fix some of the roof, and then i started making a workbench, sorting all my tools, made a place for the wheels so they are not in the way etc I love when its all arranged this nicely unfortunatly .... it won´t last long And while i was fixing up shop, the old girl could get some fresh air And work on her tan Will be finishing up the workshop tomorrow, and then its back to buisiness Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monzta Posted July 17, 2011 Author Share Posted July 17, 2011 (edited) So back from a busy week. Did alot of work at the garage, and its now ready for the jig and my newly aquired bertle tool (dont know what its called in English but will post pictures) And did a bit more of work on the old Manta to enjoy my cleaned up garage Still on hold for my parts from Germany so moved on to the front end, removed the hood and the front wing in the left side. Turned out there was a bit of rot here too. (surprise surprise) so a bit around the headlight needed changing, and i also have some work on the A post, and on the front wing mounting panel. Started with the headlight part. Used the cardboard technique for this part (honey we are out of cornflakes ...) First a nice cutout in cardboard from the old cornflakes box (the wife is not too keen about finding the cornflakes just in the plastic bag) Nice piece and it fits nicely too. Should be able to mirror the cardboard piece to make one for the other side as well. Cut out the old piece before welding of course. What a piece of xxxxx metal ! Bit of paint (hammerite) Suddently a strange alien was having fun in the car After concouring back my weld goggles i could finally enjoy an hours of good work Cheers guys Edited July 17, 2011 by monzta Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StevieH Posted July 17, 2011 Share Posted July 17, 2011 Coming along nicely And there is nothing wrong with the cornflake technique Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monzta Posted July 17, 2011 Author Share Posted July 17, 2011 Oh you wouldn´t know how much is wrong with using the cornflakes box according to the mrs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monzta Posted July 18, 2011 Author Share Posted July 18, 2011 Ah had a nice go at the Manta today, first i sorted some more stuff around that very poor footrest / a post / inner wing at the right side, and then i did a minor job on the left A post, and on the front wing mountings. There was no holes here, but the metal was so thin that you couldn´t make it shiny when grinding on it. So if i didn´t change it, this would definatly be a piece that would rust in a very short time. Alot of grinding and shaping here as the front wing needs to fit again! Ended up looking pretty okay (had to redo a couple of welds though as you can see some of them are hollow) And again two very thin areas, the rest is fine though so even though the front wing mounting panels are available as spare parts, i chose to repair the old one instead, need to make as much of it as i can myself as i am on a budget... A nice fat layer of hammerite, and you´d never be able to tell (well anyways its tugged away behind the front wings) ______________________________________________________________________________________________________ And then of course i continued on with the right side where i have been at it allready. Needed to get this part changed as the edge that collect the 3 parts (floor, inner front wing and side part of the A post) was pretty much gone, also a big part of the metal was very thin! That is one heck of a hole ! This place really gives me the creeps. There is ALOT of work on this corner before i am done, and alot of fabricating. Some of the stuff i have allready done will be cut several times before it will all be new, and pretty much everything here needs changing. In that corner the following things need to be changed: The entire foot rest part, the firewall, the underpanel, the floor, the corner in front of the outer side sill, and and and... Anyways, new part fabricated, and used the cardbox method again (aka the cornflakes box trick ha-ha) Also it was pretty much guessing the entire way as the fastening edge i have recreated was missing ! But it pretty much looks right.. Started welding the entire thing including the cutouts made to recreate the bend. A real piece of shite to fix , but getting there slowly.. Welded both sides of the cutouts as there was a bit of an overlapping most places. Don´t want this place to rust again for a looong time! And after ALOT of grinding and paint the result is pretty much ok i think.. But as the following pictures show this place is not for kids, and people of faint heart ! It is thoroughly ROTTEN here... The plan is to wait for the parts as the new floor is a big part of repairing this place. . So will get back to this corner soon. Will however continue on the firewall above this hell of rust and crap metal Will post more tomorrow when i have made more progress Cheers lads Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monzta Posted July 19, 2011 Author Share Posted July 19, 2011 Moving on .. This is the defination of crap... Putting in piece no1 And piece no 2 .. At this point my welder started acting out, turned out that the thread was rusty ??? That was truly weird as i have used the welder every day all week? But decided to retread it, and spray the wire with mig spray (hopefully that will give some protection) With the welder back in buisiness i could weld it shut. But i was not happy with theese welds But after some grinding it started to look reasonable. When the rest of the hole is done i will grind everything very carefully and use some filler too so the engine bay can look smooth. ________________________________________________________________________________________________ Moved on to the shark nose of the Manta. Here there has always been a dent and it has really annoýed me for many years (it was already there when the car was bought some 12 years ago! It is really hard to see on the foto´s but where i have sanded down to bare metal there are some dark areas, and a white spot. That is the dents.. Really was upsetting to the eye, and everyone noticed back then. It was a difficult place to apply the filler but i managed to give it a good layer. Started to sand it down first using grain 120 and the grain 60 for the finish Ready for some paint, it was really smooth. When i sand down this type of work i often close my eyes and brush the sanded area as this often reveal unwanted dents, or that more needs to be sanded. But at this stage it was absolutely perfect. Oh my god i am glad i am not a car painter Wouldn´t be worth anything After removing the tape. It is quite rubbery in the finish this paint. Don´t know why though.. Will sand it again and give it a proper finishing coat of paint. I do this with a high gloss paint (preferebly black) as it shows what you cant see when you have sanded a dent down. But it looks allright though, but i want to make sure, then there will be less work for the paintshop when it´s ready to be coated (perhaps next year!) Lots and lots of rust remain on the car. The front end though is looking pretty good. Need to do some work behind the front valance, and also at the headlight mounting areas. And of course i need to finish the firewall. The battery area also need a little work, not much though wich is suprising. So a week more and i figure the front end will be done... (and that is just the easy part of the car) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StevieH Posted July 19, 2011 Share Posted July 19, 2011 Your rate of progress is outstanding wish i was as fast at fixing things Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monzta Posted July 19, 2011 Author Share Posted July 19, 2011 (edited) Your rate of progress is outstanding wish i was as fast at fixing things Cheers Stevie it´s easy when on my summer holiday (can get 7 hours work done a day) but unfortunatly it is still moving very slowly ahead as there is ALOT of rot in this car. If it where my own car, i´d think seriously about sending it to Manta heaven and getting myself one in just a tad better condition, the amount of bodywork that lies ahead is almost insane... Between work i did this in photoshop, this is more or less the plan of the car, it will get a Lenk frontgrille, BMW black headlights, a Zastrow frontspoiler (on stock), Kahn RSR wheels (will be collecting them later this week at least the 18" ones ) black matte paintjob and i am considering putting the "stuntman mike" (deathproof logo) on the hood, and if not (if it is too cheasy) i will put on a high gloss black pinstribe, a silver one and a kawasaki green one on the side and paint the brakes, engine etc in the green colour too (it is far from a good photoshop job, i did it in about an hour or so, so forgive me the lack of details ) Cheers Edited July 19, 2011 by monzta Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gsi marc Posted July 19, 2011 Share Posted July 19, 2011 Awsome, love the photoshop pic cant wait to se this finished, shouldnt be long with the speed your progressing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monzta Posted July 19, 2011 Author Share Posted July 19, 2011 Thanks Marc for the feedback, that is greatly appreciated You should see the whole car though, then maybe you will change your mind about the time table LOL That car is thoroughly rotten and has been going back to mother earth one piece at the time for many years .. I think i will soon make a video of the car and post, then you can see how much work is needed. But again, thank you very much for the feedback, not to sure about the skull on the hood though.. Would look cool too with a green GTE stripe pinstriped with silver down the sides just to make something different but still true to the original designs ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mantaray Posted July 20, 2011 Share Posted July 20, 2011 No go with the Skull !! It looks realy mean, I like.. :thumbup Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monzta Posted July 21, 2011 Author Share Posted July 21, 2011 No go with the Skull !! It looks realy mean, I like.. :thumbup He he we´ll see about that Anyways did a photo more of the front end and it seems that after drying up the paint levelled out nicely so heres a picture of the front nose of the car without dent Also i got my Kahn RSR wheels home today They are 7,5x18" and are much too small for the rear as you can see Will need massive lowering to make them go all up in the flares, so i will use the 18" for the front and see if i can get some 19" for the rear. The car is already lowered 40mm in the rear, so it will take at least a set of 80mm springs to get the desired effect. The wheels are used and have seen some heavy action but i will only use the 2 best ones for the car, and repair the scratches later. I am thinking of doing them in matte black as well but i am not too sure about that yet . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StevieH Posted July 22, 2011 Share Posted July 22, 2011 Huge Wheels Loving the way this project is going , top marks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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