monzta Posted November 10, 2011 Author Share Posted November 10, 2011 Thanks Ray I have decided to postpone the Manta project untill after christmas as the Derby has an upcoming MOT in February and i need to sort out a couple of things, like the E-brake, rear brakes, exhaust, lights and a good 10-15 hours of metalwork. But then it should be allright for the next 2 years MOT period again and i can get back to concentrating on the Manta Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monzta Posted October 27, 2012 Author Share Posted October 27, 2012 (edited) Time for another update, and several more to come as i am again ready to go for the A restoration Nothing has really been done to the car since my last restoration post. However stuff has been bought and plans have been changed. First of all my very small garage has had a big make-over, new roofing, outer walls and a new door is on the drawing board as well. I have also spend some money updating my tools and can now boast of having a big 10bar compressor to drive my newly build 1 cubic meter media blasting box. Never a rusty part guys I have also updated my welding gear, and gotten myself one of those welding helmets with glass that shut out light automatically. Anyways regarding the project things took a turn this summer. My brother who this car was intended for in the first place, as its his car, was suddently handed over to me.. He is also restoring a car to use for racing, and suggested that we could build two more or less identical TE2800 replica´s to use for historic hillclimb racing. And i may be a rotten egg but i did accept that offer So the car is officially mine and that also results in some major differences in the project. To make the car a TE2800 replica things will have to change very much. The front end will need changing, the boot will be build race spec to fit a very small gas tank, and brakes, etc will have to be original items. The engine has been purchased. Actually we have bought a couple of engines, 5 in all. The 2,8 litre straight 6 engines are not freely available anymore so you take what you can get, when you can get it The 2,8 H engine has other great specs to make use of. It only has very few counter weights<(4 placed in the middle) on the crank and theese can be lightened and balanced to get a very good engine. The block will be original item, but the head will be a C30NE goldtop head. This is to get the big intakes and the big valves. Camshaft will be ENEM cam in race spec, solid lifters, double valve springs. The head will be skimmed to increase cr. I will also be constructing the intake manifolds myself, it will be tripple sidedrafted of course, 3x45 mm´s either dellorto or weber type, with longest possible trumpets. Header manifold from BMW E30 model will be used as basis for the exhaust that will be a single 3" exhaust. Very lightened flywheel will be made, but i think its the safest to buy a new one made to specs instead of lightening the existing old one. Oilpan will be hand made to hold 2 litres extra of oil. Due to restrictions the ignition will have to be the original one Gearbox if i can find them will hopefully be getrag 264 from 1st gen monza or senator. All rubber bushings will be changed to nylon bushes (will have them made by a machinist). The entire front end will be lightened by means of fibreglass. Front wings, hood, front panel and spoiler and doors will be changed to fibreglass parts. Hopefully this will allow me to relocate some weight in the car to keep a good weight ratio. By regulations the car must weigh in at its original weight, but weight ratio is adjustable So i will soon post more pics in here. More rust needs to be repaired. I need to finish off the engine bay, and then i am going on with the boot as the entire boot plate will be removed and changed. I have also purchased material to build a jig wich will be very helpfull. So my project is not forgotten or scrapped, i am just going in a totally different direction with it Cheers, Ruben Edited October 27, 2012 by monzta Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monzta Posted October 30, 2012 Author Share Posted October 30, 2012 Back again. After reading other threads on here i think i will get the shell of the car media blasted. The rust in this car is everywhere and no matter how good a job i do, and how close i look for the rusty places, there will always be those 10-20% you never discover. So the rust repairs is on standby now. Next is to make the jig, and strip the car of the remaining parts (wich shouldnt be too difficult). Not much is left, only front and rear driveline is left. Need to clean the bottom of the car as good as i can for the blasters also. This i will look forward to. I know that when i get the shell back it will be so full of holes it will propably only weigh half of the original weight But i think its the right thing to do for a proper restoration. Pics to come soon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Barrett Posted October 30, 2012 Share Posted October 30, 2012 is it possible to get it acid dipped/stripped where you are? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monzta Posted October 30, 2012 Author Share Posted October 30, 2012 I am not sure, i am currently trying to find someone who can do this and seems trustworthy. I have found one and it seems they use a combination of the two but its on another island so transport will be expensive. They do however have som nice pictures of their previous work. Heres a B series they have done Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monzta Posted October 30, 2012 Author Share Posted October 30, 2012 Made some minor modifications to my media blasting box that i have build, needed some airfiltering and some lights inside the box. When done i made this Its absolutely amazing the transformation of the most simple and rusty parts This is of course the engine mounts for the A series Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
611 Posted October 30, 2012 Share Posted October 30, 2012 Hey Ruben I'm liking the media blaster! looks like it will be very handy :-) Just had some of my engine parts back from the Guys who did myy wheels, they dipped them, blasted them and powder coated them and they look so good. I will try and post a couple of pictures for you. Just a shame i cant get the gearbox done :-) Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monzta Posted October 30, 2012 Author Share Posted October 30, 2012 Hi Andy. Its a really cheap but effective addon to any workshop this is Cost me about 200£ to build including a new (used) and more powerfull compressor for air (10bar). I figure i will save alot on the long run not to mention i can blast the ocasional part for others in need and make a buck or two I am thinking that just the possibillity to blast your sheet metal parts before welding them in is amazing to think of. Also suspension parts, brakes etc. Really useful. Would love to see some pics of your powder coated parts. Powder coating is also possible in your own workshop. Requires some electricity and a old kitchen oven Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
611 Posted October 30, 2012 Share Posted October 30, 2012 I think you could easily make a buck or two if they come out looking like that :-) I was owed a favour, as i did some design work for them, so it worked out as a good swap! and will try to take some pictures tomorrow. I can now get the front cover on the engine and get all the other parts back on it and maybe the head on over the next week or two and then its just the fuel lines and water hoses to finish off and i wont be too far off getting it ready to fire up :-) I do have the exhaust to finish but that shouldn't take too long when i put my mind to it as i have all the bits, i just need to get the pipe bent and the flanges welded up. I did plan on spending some time on it today but had some paid design work to do instead!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
611 Posted October 31, 2012 Share Posted October 31, 2012 Hey Ruben Here is a link to to a couple of pictures of some nice shiny engine parts :-) http://www.theopelproject.com/?p=516 Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monzta Posted October 31, 2012 Author Share Posted October 31, 2012 Looking good there Andy Its a unexplainable pleasure to put parts back on the car when they are in that condition Cant stop smiling Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monzta Posted November 1, 2012 Author Share Posted November 1, 2012 Got some more pieces blasted last night. I am very fond of the blasting box This time i did the coil bracket and a small bracket for the front stabilisor. I have however gotten some experience now and have to make some adjustments. The sand i am using (silica) is very unhelathy first of all, and second its just to mild and does not remove paint and other things that are really stuck on the subjects i am blasting. So to adjust this i need some sand that are more abrasive. Also i have discovered that my compressor are ok for small parts like this, but for bigger parts like a rim it involves alot of waiting to refill the compressor air tank as the best blasting results are achieved beyond 8-9 bars of pressure. Mine can make 12 bars and it doesnt take long for it to empty the tank to like 5 bars of pressure. So at some point i will be buying a 500 litre 3 cyl 18 bar compressor. They cost around 400£ for a good used one, so that will have to wait a bit. Not manta related though but its a step on the way Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MANTAMAN Posted November 1, 2012 Share Posted November 1, 2012 Monzta, look on e-bay for compressors, earlier this year i got a large compressor with extra tank, spray guns, air tools, blasting cabinate, engine crane, engine stand and other variuos small bits for £619 (not sure what this is in Euro's) but the point is that the equipment is in very good condition (the seller had restored his Mini but then had to give up car restoration due a back problem) and would have cost me over twice as much if i had bought it new. As for blasting medium you must not use sand, you will get a lung dis-order called silicosis (not sure of spelling) you can buy blasting medium that dosen't kill you, i have heard that chilled iron is good (what ever that is!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monzta Posted November 1, 2012 Author Share Posted November 1, 2012 Yeah i know about the silica sand, and its apparently very bad (not illegal to use here in Denmark, allthough its not allowed in UK, and Germany). The other sands that i want to buy is not really sand, but some glas shards that are actually leftovers from steel molding that are crushed to 0.2-1,2mm beads.. Another option is plastic beads wich are also "hot" to use right now as it doesnt damage the material but are incredible effective at removing paint and other stuff. Anyway, need to do a bit of research here But thanks for the warning mate Yeah those machines are not too expensive but cash is low at the moment so will have to make do with the one i have right now. Its good no doubt, but for blasting constantly in a couple of minutes it simply is too weak. Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin Abbott Posted November 1, 2012 Share Posted November 1, 2012 Great work. As for blasting media I've tried a few things and there is good and bad with all types. I was using iron slag but it makes the inside of the cabinet black in seconds and then you can't see what you're doing. It's a dirty media and the garage ended up with a black rusty dust on everything. Now I use glass beads and its clean but very slow going. Regarding compressors. I got mine from a petrol station that was getting rid of its car wash and they had no need for a large compressor It then needed a new motor £300 and I've just overhauled the v twin pump but I wouldn't ever go back to a small compressor now no matter the cost. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monzta Posted November 1, 2012 Author Share Posted November 1, 2012 I agree The only way when talking compressors is that larger is better Found a diesel powered one that could make 64 bar thats 928psi with a machine like that i could plast your parts in the UK all the way from Denmark i think :ph34r: I have found something called "Korund" wich should be extremly hard and reusable up to 20 times before the material itselfs becomes dust. It shouldnt make as big a mess as other products. For industrial purposes it is used for cleaning cast iron, metals and especially stainless steel. So its very sturdy and powerfull. Not sure as to wether its good for alloys like aluminium but maybe if one turned the pressure down it could be ok. Found a bag with 25kg of it for 20 Euro so its not expensive. I figure i will give this a try first. And yes there is for and against almost every abrasive on the market, some of them are product specific (like only for cast iron etc). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monzta Posted November 6, 2012 Author Share Posted November 6, 2012 Just a tad of news. My brother has been stockpiling theese alloys along with some crazy gearboxes from BMW´s There´s a total of 8 8x13" ones and 4 7x13" ones. They are called Ronal Kleeblatt (clover-leaf) and they are pretty rare, made from magnesium aluminium alloy so they are very very light. 4 of them are on the way here for a blasting and then back on the shelf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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