endakillian Posted September 8, 2011 Share Posted September 8, 2011 Does anyone have actual bearing pre-load and torque (bearing caps & pinion nut) figures for when rebuilding a Manta diff? I have a fairly comprehensive Opel workshop guide but it doesn't give the figures required??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shane P Posted September 9, 2011 Share Posted September 9, 2011 (edited) Ill check auto data for you later when i get home enda it might be on it Do you know what type of oil goes with the zf diff by any chance? Shane Edited September 9, 2011 by Shane P Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
399Road Posted September 9, 2011 Share Posted September 9, 2011 (edited) Ill check auto data for you later when i get home enda it might be on it Do you know what type of oil goes with the zf diff by any chance? Shane Eh up Shane, I've put Castrol B373 LSD oil in both of my diffs. You can get this from Ebay or from Rally and Competition Equipment in Stoke on Trent. They won't mind posting it out to Ireland either. I stripped both the diffs down before fitting and covered all the plates in this oil so there's no dry surfaces grinding together. If you end up needing any drive plates for your ZF Diff , you can get reproduction ones from WWW.Driveandtraction.co.uk . I've bought ( not panic buying really ) enough to rebuild three diffs as it might be a few years until I need to do this and I don't fancy the search for parts again that took four months last time. Good luck with your diff build. If you are checking your diff's slip torque with a couple of cut down halfshafts, then do this before you coat the plates in diff oil. Luke. Endakillian, The Opel workshop manual I have lists the torque settings for the Diff carrier's bearing caps as 50 Newton meters. It also lists the way to set up preload on your pinion with either new or used pinion bearings but this sounds quite complicated as it says you need a torsionmeter and lists the torque settings as being in NCM which I presume is Newton Centimeters????? When I removed my Pinion, I refitted all the old Pinion parts and bearings and just kept nipping the Pinion nut up until the play disappeared. Obviously this won't work for you if you're fitting all new parts. Another tip for setting up your diff's back lash is to carefuly remove your old side bearings and then open the centres up slightly so they can easily be pulled on and off the diff by hand. Measure your new diff and compare this against the size of your old diff across where the sidebearings and shims fit. The first thing to do is add or remove shims to make the diffs the same size as each other. Then add all the old shims you removed from your old diff and fit them in their original places on the left and right sides of the diff. If the back lash needs adjusting then just remove the bearing caps, pull out the diff, pull your old bearings off easily by hand and change the shims from one side to the other.You need to refit and torque up the bearing caps each time to do this. Once your backlash is correct, then remove the old bearings and press the new ones permanently into place. This method prevents the risk of damaging your new bearings by pressing them on and pulling the off several times. If your Opel workshop manual is the same as mine, you need Section F. Page 61 to read about setting your pinion up. Edited September 9, 2011 by 399Road Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
endakillian Posted September 9, 2011 Author Share Posted September 9, 2011 Thanks Shane, appreciate that. @399road... Thanks for you're informative reply. That's a great idea with opening out some old bearings to do all the checking and rechecking. I was going to use the old diff bearings but I think now I'll open them out and just get new ones for final fit then. They're very pricey though. The proper shim kit supplies 2 type of shims-one with diameters for fitting between outer shell bearing and diff casing and the other with diameters that fit under the bearing for final fit which is great because you can do all you're checking and fiddling about using the ones that go between the shell and casing without having to keep pulling off the bearings. Very hard/impossible to get these original type of kits though. Only ones I can find are the ones that sit underneath the bearing which means you're damaging them every time you pull off the bearings. When you say you tightened the pinion by just nipping it up does that mean you used the old crush washer??? It's a nightmare of a job with parts so hard/expensive to find and info even harder! Would you happen to know the crown wheel run-out tolerance also or does it list it in you're manual? I obviously don't have the right manual as the page numbers seem different. Again,thanks for you're help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
399Road Posted September 10, 2011 Share Posted September 10, 2011 (edited) Endakillian, I reused the old pinion bearings and crush washer. I made a tool for holding the pinion whilst I tightened the Pinion nut. This tool was made from a spare Torque tube shaft with the splined section cut off and then the shaft welded onto the side of the splined bit ( in effect, making a big spanner out of it ) This allows you to grip the pinion without damaging the splines. The manual says that the maximum run out allowed around your Crownwheel is 0.08mm when bolted up into the axle. It also says to leave the Crownwheel in boiling water for a minute before fitting to expand it slighty and allow it to seat more easily against your Diff. It says that the Tensilock Ring gear bolts should always be renewed, but I refitted the old ones, as the Vauxhall main dealer didn't know what a Crownwheel was, using Threadlock and they've been fine. The Torque setting for the Crownwheel bolts is 75 Newton meters. The backlash, or clearance between the Pinion and Crownwheel should be between 0.10 and 0.20mm and ideally 0.12mm. The closest I could get both of mine were 0.14mm. Check these clearances with the gears clean and dry. The side bearings that I got from a local bearing supplier were Timken part Number 19150 ( apparently a popular taper roller bearing ) The outer cups were a bit tricky to source though and were SKF 330168 C ( cup ) These two bearings and side cups cost me £80 the first time I had some ( for the Manta ) and then £120 last year, when I fitted another ZF diff to the Ascona............. .Luke. Edited September 10, 2011 by 399Road Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
endakillian Posted September 10, 2011 Author Share Posted September 10, 2011 Excellent bit of info there Luke-thanks a million. Yeah I fitted the ring gear using an induction heater and gave it a few spins before settling so it should be fine. I think I might just go with new side bearing and a new crush washer just to be sure though? Again thanks for the figures and if there's anything else I think of I might jus stick it here in this thread? Cheers, Enda. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shane P Posted September 10, 2011 Share Posted September 10, 2011 Nothing in autodata enda but looks like Luke has it sorted, some great info there Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
endakillian Posted September 10, 2011 Author Share Posted September 10, 2011 Yeah I think I'm fairly much sorted now Shane. Great info alright. Thanks for checkin anyway! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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