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Pedalbox Cyclinder Help


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It depends what calipers you're running and the size of the pistons in them.

A larger master cylinder bore means more fluid moved but at lower pressure for a given amount of pedal movement than a smaller cylinder, and you also need to take into account the caliper piston size to how much fluid you need to make them move.

You want to end up with more line pressure for the front brakes than the rears so you have more braking at the front.

I did find a calculator on the web to work out cylinder sizes when i was doing mine but it got way too complicated for me :wacko:

With the right size cylinder for the calipes the idea is that the adjuster rod on the pedal stays level when applying the brakes

Explained with pictures here http://www.rallydesign.co.uk/balancebar.php better than i can

Hopefully somone with a similar brake caliper setup will be able to add what cylinder sizes they are running.

Mine has .625 front and.75 rear but i've got the smaller 16v front calipers and drums on the back

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Hey mick

I will be interested in how you get on with the setup as im doing the same on mine. i will check on sizes, but im running wilwood 4 pots on the front and cossie calipers on the back so im going with larger size on the front as need more volume for the 4 pot as back is just twin pot.

What are you doing for the clutch? i have a wilwood clutch acutuator for mine.

Are you running a manual adjustable for the bias front and rear?


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retro fitting the 5 speed with a hydraulic cylinder. Wilwood do a manual adjuster that fits up to their pedal box with a cable and adjuster so you can change front to back to get it just right.


It will look cool even if i don't use it :-)

Must be nice to start putting bits back on, i have all the suspension and running gear back in mine and now have the fiddly job of brake lines, pedais and fuel before i start on the engine.


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