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The Ideal 1.9 Build


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No, I never thought, but I will send an email, thanks for the tip!

Hey Moodoo

Jan at Enem know his stuff on CIH engines and might even know what pistons would fit or if you could get some made or where to get them from.

I would drop him a line before you go too much further in your searching :-)

Andy

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Did the same on my C30NE tripple Dellorto engine. Had to remove some connectors for some sensors and block off the holes with machinescrews. Also had the bottom part cut of and welded to remove the 2

He steve, check out the links i put up of the thermostat and then you wll see what Monzta means about the pipes fouling and that you need to open up/add an putlet for the heater rad return.

Andy

Where did you put the links up guy?

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Where did you put the links up guy?

post #37 on this thread, a page back. i have uploaded pics of the 2.4 and 2.0 from all sides so you can see what i had to do to get it to fit with inlets carb/or throttle bodies.

Andy

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thanks andy... yea i see there's unnecessary outlets on the 2.4 thermostat that need to be blanked off, and the main bolt-on housing is probably in the way of the far-most right intake... i saw rallybob's conversion of one of those and i have a much better idea now..

he actually mounted the housing sideways, looks quite good..

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Did the same on my C30NE tripple Dellorto engine. Had to remove some connectors for some sensors and block off the holes with machinescrews. Also had the bottom part cut of and welded to remove the 2 big lower coolant return.

monza.jpg

As you can see the throttle axle goes very close to the thermostate housing. At this place the temp sensor is normally placed and that is why the carbs wont fit. On the pic you can see i have moved the temp sensor to the other side (blue wire) and i have shut the hole with a screw (not visible on pic).

Also you can see that the bottom part has been cut off and welded shut.

When we did my brothers 2,2 we did a similar operation but as the 2,2 ran with 45 webers we had to get the thermostate housing mounting flange cut of and angled on the head. I think you will need to do a similar operation.

All in all its possible to make the changes yourself but if a proper thermostate housing from Leidinger only costs 70 Euro i would not think twice buying one instead of all the trouble making your own :)

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awesome post mate...

i see enem sell the modified thermostat housing for 560SEK (however much that is in euro) so it's also substancially cheaper there.. i will see how i get on, as 70euro is quite alot of money for me when you work it back through the exchange rate.. to cut expenses i will also try to build my own intakes..

but for now i'm back on the 1.9 idea, the 2.2 is a distant future prospect, as i still need to buy the engine etc before i can get started..

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Second hand intakes for the dellorto/weber carbs should be easy to find. Will also give you alot of good info on how to handle weber/dellorto tuning and adjusting. Loads of experience awaits you mate :)

The 1,9 is as i said early on in this thread fairly easy to make to give 130 ish bhp. A camshaft, a good exhaust and a set of webers or dellortos will get you there without any problems. I figure 110hp with an Enem cam when combined with twin carbs, and another 10-15hp with the carbs set up correct. The last 5-10hp should be easy to find with a reasonable exhaust and a good ignition system. You could consider building EDIS4 ignition on the 1,9 ?

All in all 130bhp is not a problem to achieve.

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Second hand intakes for the dellorto/weber carbs should be easy to find. Will also give you alot of good info on how to handle weber/dellorto tuning and adjusting. Loads of experience awaits you mate :)

The 1,9 is as i said early on in this thread fairly easy to make to give 130 ish bhp. A camshaft, a good exhaust and a set of webers or dellortos will get you there without any problems. I figure 110hp with an Enem cam when combined with twin carbs, and another 10-15hp with the carbs set up correct. The last 5-10hp should be easy to find with a reasonable exhaust and a good ignition system. You could consider building EDIS4 ignition on the 1,9 ?

All in all 130bhp is not a problem to achieve.

a guy on the forum wanted 240GBP for second hand intakes!! granted it was postage incl but still, i can get a MINT set of 40 webers for that price, almost 45's if i really look around...

sorry for my ignorance but what's a EDIS4 ignition? I am going to have to get very strong spark through if i'm running 40's, so i'm open to suggestions...

bear in mind i'm going to balance and install the 1.6 crank and I might lighten the flywheel while i'm at it, since the whole process is going to cost me only 40euros.. i'll also do a bit of blueprinting and select the lightest (or closest weighing) 4 rods from the lot...

all in all, 130hp is around 100kw, which is decent power considering the amount of money i've spent:

40 webers : 90 euro (plus OHC intake which can be sold off for roughly the same price :D)

19S intakes : +-100euro plus postage

exhaust manifold : TBA

16S & 19S complete motors : FREE

I'm also going to have to get up to scratch with carb linkages and such to set everything up solidly.. now i'm just going to need the time with the car to get it there :D

monzta do you have an email adress?

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What ? They cost 260 Euro brand spanking new at Leidinger !

They are like 50-80£ here in denmark second hand...

EDIS 4 ignition is found on stock Ford cars. Edis 4 is for 4 cylinder cars, Edis6 for 6 cyl cars etc. It runs on a toothed wheel with a sensor and gives an extremly precise ignition. What you need from any scrapped Ford Escort is the EDIS module, the toothed wheel, the sensor, the ignition coil with 4 exits for each of your plugs and the lambda probe for exhaust. To use it you need a MS box. They can be very cheap if you are ready to put it together yourself. It is in essence a distributer free ignition.

Its an option anyways.

I agree on the costs. The CIH is very cheap to tune until a certain point of course.

My email is r_uldal@hotmail.com :)

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Thanks buddy... i'd happily spend 100GBP for the 2.2 intakes and postage today, so if you know of a nice set there in Denmark, let me know and we can make a plan ;) They're not that common over here..

I think i'll leave the ignition for a bit later... my biggest issue is with tuning those sidedrafts in properly, i'm going to have to build up some stock of jets, so if you want to share some info i can start looking out for those jets.. ;)

the most expensive thing with tuning a CIH motor for me is the exchange rate, as most of the bits have to come from overseas, and South Africa has a terrible exchange rate..

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hey moodoo, thanks for the info... it will be very helpful!!

i see the throw of the crank of the 1.9 vs 2.2 is 34.9mm to 38.75mm (half of the stroke)...

now these figures are purely circumstancial, based on assumptions and can only be confirmed with hardware in hand but it means that:

- the gudgeon pin on the 2.2 piston will sit roughly 3.85mm closer to the piston top than the 1.9 and 2.0..

- using 2.0 piston would require a rod of similar bearing sizes and width but length of 124mm (125mm if you want to bump the compression a bit ;) )..

in my opinion you could choose from any 95mm 8v piston, check it's gudgeon pin offset to that of the 2.2 and get rods to suite.. i suspect a set of standard rods (from wherever) and pistons would be cheaper than custom pistons, but i ask again, have you been quoted on a set of custom-made pistons from the states? do you have a price? maybe it's not worth the effort of matching rods and pistons and maybe the best way is to simply have custom pistons made.. let me know ;)

Stevo

I've already done this to a 2.2. 97mm custom pistons, 2.4 rods and 2.2 crank. Engine is 2.3 with a good 1.7+ rod ratio. Need to finish it off and get it up and running yet but all the engine is assembled. Should be over 200bhp.

2.4 H section rods are available so there easy to pick up.

My pistons cost £450 and were made by JE, they have deeper cutouts for increased valve lift and are domed so comp ratio is around 12:1. Rings were on top of this but i went for total seal ones which were £120 a set. Head gasket is Cometic at about £120, need that for the 97mm bore.

Wossner actually list a long rod piston for the 2.0 engine, so i assume that is designed for a 2.0 crank with the 2.4 rods.

Prices are from a couple of years ago. It was actually cheaper to have custom forged pistons made up than buying std cast Mahle.

Oh yeah pin diameters are 1mm different between 1.9/2.0/2.2 rods than the 2.4. the 2.4 pins are also fitted with circlips so are floating rather than the press fit for the others. Better for performance. If you do go the custom route performance pistons have the pins centred in the piston, std ones can be offset to alleviate wear on the thrust side of the piston which does sap a bit of power.

HTH

Chris

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Hello, I am here in the U.S. and have read through this thread and found it quite interesting. I have a 1975 Ascona A with Fuel injection that I am looking to make perform better. In the U.S. 1975 was the last year Opel was imported as a Opel and due to emission laws they had low compression pistons (7.5:1) and a Bosch Jetronic L fuel injection system.

I am interested in the mention that the Enem Y12 camshaft can be installed in the GTE model 1.9 Ascona. We did not receive the GTE and since we only got the Bosch F/I one year here no one knows much about performance upgrades.

From my understanding, Opel in Europe, never had low compression pistons and the GT/E was a true 9.5 compression, solid lifter, fuel injected, performance optional vehicle and all other Opels were still carbureted, slightly lower compression, until much farther on.

I am looking to duplicating the GT/E build here with some performance upgrades. I have two earlier high compression 1.9 engines that I will be freshening up. Probably just honing the cylinders, new rings, bearings and decked .010. No boring/grinding unless necessary to cut costs.

The head will be ported on the intake and exhaust side, 42 mm intake valve installed, and milled .050. From what I have been told this should bring the compression to a true 9.5:1. The cam gear will be modified to be able to dial the cam back into spec due to decking and milling. My only real problem is to know what cam to use. I know that jetronic L had two problems. One is going with the wrong performance cam will cause the MAF to flutter and cause erratic idle problems. Two the MAF will cause a lean out at higher RPM's do to restricted airflow.

Seems to me I read somewhere also that the oiling system was changed in the head at some point and newer cams could not be used in older heads or maybe it is the other way around. Something to do with how the oiling was done on one of the cam bearings.

So I guess my questions are:

How much performance (HP gain) is the ENEM Y12 cam over the stock GT/E cam? Is there yet another cam you might suggest for the F/I? I am looking for good drivability with good performance. It is a daily driver.

Does anyone know at what RPM the stock F/I starts leaning out? Will the Y12 get to that RPM?

Will a newer cam install in a older head ok?

If the Y12 wont work with the head is there a place I can find the specs to have a old cam reground? I have a stock cam here that I think could be reground.

Thanks, George.

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monzta, you said that the cast iron torque tubes are stronger than the aluminum ones... which part of the torque tube are you refering to? the tube itself? my friend had a look and all the cars have steel tubes, no aluminum, no cast iron...

pics would be great ;)

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George

Have you looked on opelgt forums? There is a wealth of info on there about tuning up the CIH motors. Bob Legere is the guy to quiz (Rallybob) as he has done masses of tuning, he will also know the best US firms to use for cam profiles. There are, allegedly, quite a few available.

As regards what your talking about doing to the motor, spot on especially the timing gear issue. Try to avoid having the block decked as well. I think all the modern cams are ok in the older motors, but not the othe way round. Also i would fit a 45mm valve instead of a 42mm. With a little smoothing of the ports (especially around where the valve comes through into the inlet port....need to make it look like a bonnet bulge on the gt!) you will get a big increase in flow.

HTH

Chris

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Sure. This is the part

t manta1.jpg

Of course the axle itself is steel but the housing around the shaft and the mounting rod can be found in aluminium as well. I think its only on the B series now that i think about it so propably not a problem for you. You could do with scrapping it all together and get a direct driveshaft instead using a hardy assembly (dont know the english word for that part) and a bearing like found on the Rekords, Omega´s etc.

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thanks monzta... i'm also thinking of getting rid of the torque tube idea and just go with a solid driveshaft.. i'll see how far i get, if i break the torque tube i'll replace it with something simpler and stronger..

another thing... i've sourced a set of L18 datsun sidedraft intakes for a good price... going to try and modify them to fit the 2.2, got an intake gasket for less than 4EURO brand new.. looks like the parts are going to be cheap :D

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A volvo 240/740 series rear axle would be the solution to this. Also they are very tough so would be an addon to the project. :) The width will fit but the brakes will have some issues. But on the + sides you will also have gained disc brakes to the rear :)

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