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No Power To Fuse 7 Fuel Injection System


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Hi peeps. Not been on here for a while as been using company van for ages. Ive quit that job now & for some strange reason my beloved does not want to run.

It starts, runs for a few seconds then dies. Fuel pump runs when bridged to fuse 8 & 6 but still doesnt start. No volts from fuse 7 at all. I cant understand as I parked it there a couple of months ago no probs. Ive taxed & insured my motor ready for my 1st day at my new job & it let me down & I was late. Not a good look lol. Please help?

I have 2 fuel pump relays & still no luck

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Thats the 1st thing i did yes. When I bridge it, the fuel pump runs constantly. Im not sure which way so Ive bridged the top & bottom 1 at a time but still no joy

I cant remember if the fuel pump just primes or runs constantly?

Edited by Mrbus
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Check around your ignition coil for a Green wire, make sure it is connected to the ignition coil and where it emerges from the loom; that it is not broken inside its sheath, this green wire carries essential ignition pulses from the ignition module and as well as feeds this signal to the Fuel pump relay to keep it energised, if the green wire is broken, like it did on my Manta, it was behaving exactly like yours, one minute it was running and the next time it refused to start. Hence why when you run your fuel pump by shorting the fuses, it still does not start, as these green wire may not be carrying ignition pulses from the ignition module, or it may be broken between the relay and the ignition coil. so check green wire continuity between coil and relay.

If the copper conductors snapped inside the green sheath, it would be hard to tell as the sheath may be instact, so tug on the sheath particularly around the area immediately from the loom, alternatively check for electrical continuity using a multimeter between the green wire at the ignition coil and the green wire at the FPR(fuel pump relay)

Without this continuity the FPR relay simply won't stay on and only come on briefly to prime the pump, so the engine would start and stop shortly aftterwords.

Edited by MSGManta
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Did you bridge fuse 7 at the bottom, hear the pump run and leave it bridged and pump running while trying to start it? THIS IS IMPORTANT

If it was mine I would do this, butit is not mine and I do not recommend it.

If you have constant fuel pump with the 2P trick then and still does not run..........

Check coil lead for spark (no spark from coil lead then there is no pulse available to the ECU to tell it when to fire the injectors)

IF there is no spark at coil lead, do all the usual checks, including check for +ve on black terminal (spade) on coil

If NO +12V at black terminal on coil check the black terminal joining the black wire from car loom to the ingition amplifier mini loom

This is the black terminal in upper right quadrant of below pic, on mine you can see blue insulation where a terinal has been replaced. You are looking to make sure ignition live here makes it to spade on coil


If YES +12V on black terminal then look at green wires here..........

This is the part on the car loom that "piggy backs" in to allow RPM counter to work, and it is also this wire the ECU taps into (whereit joins to car loom on bulkhead) to take the signal for the injectors. look at the picture below but don't do anything yet


As you can see this has been replaced on my car due to issues. It has both a male and a female terminal.

Disconnect the female terminal of this wire from the round coil pin, disconnect the male terminal of this wire from the female on the coil module loom and put the female from the coil module loom on the exposed coil pin.

At his point the RPM wire and hence feed to trigger injection are disconnected BUT what we are looking for now is a successful test of spark from coil lead, if you have a constant spark now and not before it means this green wire is faulty in the islolated section.

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