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Programable Ignition Systems Advice


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Ive got a 20seh engine with a crank sensor ,r1 bike carbs with a throttle position sensor .

at the moment I use the old 1800 belt drive dizzy (modified by h+h ignition solutions no vac advance )

which is ok but not ideal .

this belt drive prevents use of a vernier pulley which would yield more gains

id like to get a distributor less ignition system programmable via usb , to use the vauxhall SEH trigger wheel and crank sensor .

im sure it would help power and fuel economy significantly

i don't think i want the EDIS system , i don't like the idea of a trigger wheel welded on my crank pulley and a load of ford parts

anybody know what im talking about >?

Ive got a budget of £500 and i have no idea whats going to be compatible . some advise in this direction would be great .

thanks :)

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If you remove EDIS-4 from your ignition options your choices narrow down and become increasingly more expensive. The EDIS 4 ignition actually works. But you could take a look at Lumenition ignition systems, i think they make some stuff for the c20xe that may fit your engine.

Edited by monzta
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thanks very much everyone , :) great info .

the nodiz unit looks great !

it does 60-2 for my gm sensor and will use the bike carb tps for 3D B) via blue tooth .

a new one for £250 i think or £180 for a group buy of 5 ..

i will need a sensor and maybe new leads and a coil ... ill have to read into it a bit more .

im definitely feeling a renewed enthusiasm ...

thanks again :thumbup Merry Christmas and a happy new year

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  • 4 weeks later...

they're not doing a group buy anymore that was only at first to get it going ..... now its going its looking like the total cost for me would be about £400 still quite competitive i think for all it cliams to do .

id get the unit , wiring , coil and leads and a suitable map .ill probably have to buy a new crank sensor and map sensor to make the best of it ....oh and a smart phone to look at it all working .

180 would have been nice ....

ill be taking the plunge and getting one ordered very soon , ill let you know what its like .

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  • 4 weeks later...

Ive now got a Nodiz pro Unit ....

ive got a new coil , leads and crank sensor to go with it .

still need/want an air temp sensor and a coolant one .... had conflicting advise on weather i need a MAP sensor or not .

I had in mind that the MAP sensor would give subtle changes similar to a vac advance distributor . maybe its only for turbo cars ?

So anyway all that's left is to put it all on nicely ... and see it i can get it to work . and add more sensors later .

its really uncharted territory for me ... i know very little about the tuning side , Maps and that sort of thing .

A steep learning curve for sure . Ill end up going down to their rolling road for a £120 session to sort it out .

Trying to get proper time for it in the next couple of weeks , ill keep you all posted

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belt drive prevents use of a vernier pulley which would yield more gains

Offset woodruff keys cost pence


If you have an adjustable timing light and an accurate (not car) rpm counter you can easily woek out the dizzy advance curve as a starting point.

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At RPM intervals e.g. 1000, 1250, 1500, etc (depending on how fine a map is allowed

Using one of those nice Snap on RPM / Dwell whatever things you probably have because you still have a decent timing light and a lot of people don't any more.

Obviously make sure dizzy is timed correctly to atart, potentially by setting it on maximum advance......

what you do is with the car set to a particular RPM turn the dial on your timing light till it flashes on the marks aligned and read off the gauge the advance at that RPM, lather rinse repeat as needed.

You might also find people do sample maps as a starting point for your engine.


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  • 2 months later...

slapped the nodiz unit on last week .

works really well with the plug leads on the right way .

striat away idle was more steady . low down power was back ... 4th gear at 25 mph and being able to accelerate reasonably has never been possible before .

so big smiles .... :D

i just did a 2d install for now, crank sensor only . top end needs advancing some ....once i learn how .

it might have to take a back burner for a bit , 3 rust holes have appeared .. my clutch heel finally went through the floor , rear inner arch , inner wing under the mounting rail ... usual boring grind .

I cant fault the nodiz unit .... looking forward to more fiddling with tps's, Map pipes and launch control :P

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  • 6 months later...

its great ,

ive connected tps and map sensors which really made it feel like a light car .

ive set a soft cut at 6000rpm and a hard cut at 6500 to stop me breaking it ...and that works well .

the dash display is good .

not been able to get the two 10v coil feeds to work on the standard manta rev couter(green wire)

added a couple of resistors and i get upto 2200rpm then nothing .

fnow ive got carb and inlet manifold gasket trouble , so its all still on the back burner .

i really need to get it to their rolling road and let the guy sort it out . I had a tinker with the map at higher rpms and now it pinks where i tinkered so ill leave that there as i clearly dont know what im doing .

bit iffy sometimes with the Bluetooth connection , software works fine , looks a bit clunky but that doesn't matter much as its functional .

it doesn't data-log or do fault codes as far as i know .

theirs a new one coming out soon with provision for an air flow meter . it will probably come with new software again .

one good thing its been totally reliable , it starts and goes everyday without fail . runs well once warm and petrol consumption is much much better ,

so inspite of a few issues im still over the moon about it and would absolutely recommend it for anyone with a standard dizzy and a bike carb set up .

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Fantastic, thanks for the feedback. I'm considering it for a 2.0 16v on 45 webers with quite lairy cams, so I'd just go for the TPS option no doubt. Are you running MAP alongside the TPS then Dan?

And did it come with a good base map for yours then?

PS: I guess you've seen this diagram for the resistors? Sounds like the timing needs retarding/pulling back a bit higher up.

EDIT: Just to add, are you using any of the coolant/air Intake temp and fan switching features?


Edited by Volksdevil
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  • 2 years later...

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