kenny dock Posted April 4, 2013 Share Posted April 4, 2013 Hi Folks Dunno whats wrong, car is due respray 10th April, dont want to miss it. I cant get it started. car is cranking over, and has fuel. but no spark at plug, Its also turning rev counter up full when ignition is turned on, Now im scratching my head, and dont have any clue. Iasked auto electricians to look at it. Bring it down and we will plug it in wasnt the answer i was looking for! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cop Posted April 4, 2013 Share Posted April 4, 2013 poss bad earth, clean up all joints and partially use copper grease, hope this helps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mantadoc Posted April 4, 2013 Share Posted April 4, 2013 As per other thread, still most likely the green wire that piggy backs to the REV counter. If not an injection car you can undo the male and female and put the green from the amp or dizzy on the coil. Same as previous rev counter thread. Above assumes you have already checked for live 12V on the black wire on the coil or 6V-ish / 12V cranking on the coil if a points car. Need to know if you have the electronic ignition or not really. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kenny dock Posted April 5, 2013 Author Share Posted April 5, 2013 thanks its not electronic ignition, points / condenser, what is the white wire for on the rev counter? kenny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mantadoc Posted April 5, 2013 Share Posted April 5, 2013 White wire can't remember. A rev counter just needs power, earth and a "signal" to read the pulses which is the green wire. Your car does not need the green wire that goes into the car loom to run. The green wire from the distributor can be connected onto the coil terminal. Doing this bypasses the REV counter issue and shows if your car will run like that. if it will you know issue is with the green connector (as mentioned two times before) or the rev counter circuit so that will narrow it to help diagnosis. If it was mine, If I remember correctly as long as the coil terminal with the black (12 V while cranking) and orange translucent resistor wire ( to reduce voltage so it does not fry coil and points long term) is powered, a piece of wire can be used from the "green terminal" to earth (not the battery terminal sparks = bad) to induce a spark in the coil lead to test coil but it is not mine and I do not recommend this. You need to reply with what has been tried so far and what has been tried in response to peoples posts because without that info people are working blind and cannot help, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kenny dock Posted April 5, 2013 Author Share Posted April 5, 2013 No worries, ill try and not act like a complete newbie!, will try these fixes and repost. Thanks for the help. I am just keen to get the auld yin up and runnin! kenny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mantadoc Posted April 5, 2013 Share Posted April 5, 2013 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kenny dock Posted April 6, 2013 Author Share Posted April 6, 2013 Hi Folks, right. today ive been working on the car. Car is now running. problem was distributor was loose, a friend of mine forgot to fully tighten and it moved. I have since connected the distributor straight to the coil and removed the green rev counter wire as instructed, the rev counter is still going fully clockwise as soon as the ignition is switched on despite it not being connected. I have been out today and broke down 3 times in as many miles. The car is running sweet one minute and then stutters before cutting out. It restarts after one minute and a couple of pumps on the accelerator, Im unsure if this is an electrical problem. I had to put a reconditioned gm varajet 2 carb on the car a couple of months ago as previous owner had carb issue, over revving on start up, up 4000 rpm and the it would die. timing was set static today and gun confirmed timing marks aligned. Ive also done a compression test today to rule that out, each cylinder is 9.7 bar. Any advice would be greatly appreciated Thanks Kenny. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mantadoc Posted April 6, 2013 Share Posted April 6, 2013 Car is now running. problem was distributor was loose, a friend of mine forgot to fully tighten and it moved.Unlikely as it would still have sufficient metal to metal contact to earth so you would still have a spark, just at the wrong time. This would stop it running but it is VERY unlikely to stop you having a spark.I have since connected the distributor straight to the coil and removed the green rev counter wire as instructed, the rev counter is still going fully clockwise as soon as the ignition is switched on despite it not being connected.OK so sounds like wiring or dash issue. The green wire near the coil is the one that goes to the back of the dash so wiring or rev counter or earth issue or something. I have been out today and broke down 3 times in as many miles. The car is running sweet one minute and then stutters before cutting out. It restarts after one minute and a couple of pumps on the accelerator, Im unsure if this is an electrical problem. I had to put a reconditioned gm varajet 2 carb on the car a couple of months ago as previous owner had carb issue, over revving on start up, up 4000 rpm and the it would die. Are you sure the auto choke isn't sticking on? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kenny dock Posted April 7, 2013 Author Share Posted April 7, 2013 im sure auto choke cam is clear of the fast idle. its not sticking on and working well. The car is clear as far as spark is concerned. The plug burning is clear and golden brown. Its just the rpm counter and the stuttering to a hault which is the issue. thanks for your help kenny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mantadoc Posted April 7, 2013 Share Posted April 7, 2013 You need to see if you have a spark when it won't start. Favoured options would be coil mount loose on wing (and hence maybe earth issue as mentioned earlier Fuel pipes in wong place and vapour lock from heating up Blocked fuel filters and holes in pipes etc. If when it won't run exhaust smells of petrol usually electrical or flooding. Colour of plugs only helps if correct plugs and correct heat rating fitted. Could easily be carb though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.