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Sparkless 2.2


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Fuel pump is definately on while cranking. Getting spark from coil, but seems not as strong as it could be. getting nothing from spark plug. Checked leads to make sure contact being made. Will order new rotor arm n cap.

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at the end of the day providing you are using all the correct components,wiring loom etc for a 2.2 system then there are realy only 4 possible causes.faulty distributor pick up to send signal to control unit,faulty control unit(white type ),faulty coil or faulty spark advance box.(finally also check that the ignition system is connected to the injection system.2.2,s only have this .not gte 2.0)

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Fuel pump is definately on while cranking. Getting spark from coil, but seems not as strong as it could be. getting nothing from spark plug. Checked leads to make sure contact being made. Will order new rotor arm n cap.

It was just that you said with a squirt of brake cleaner it fired up briefly.

Although you did also mention a possible air leak. If thats bad enough could be too weak a mix for the spark to ignite, but the extra fuel from the brake cleaner helped it.

Also rather than taking a plug out and holding it against the block to check spark you can get these http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/230842302729 that go between the plug and lead and flash if there's a spark. Much easier to use i find and removes the risk of getting a jolt if you hold the wrong part :wacko:

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Acid test here is to spray a shit load of brake cleaner into the intake after the air filter and see how long it runs...

If it runs briefly again, you have a fueling issue. If it doesn't then check the timing... I've been here with Charlie's old GTE. I had spark, I had fuel, I had good earths. Never did get to the bottom of the issue :(

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Could it be crap fuel. Reason i say this is because i wrongly mixed ten liters of crap fuel with about thirty litres of good fuel, seemed a good idea at time.

Turned out the crap fuel had water in and even using easy start i had to keep cranking while spraying and finally i'd get two pots firing then three then four but once it was running it ran without a problem

Just a suggestion, hope you get sorted in time

Cheers

Andy

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  • 2 weeks later...

New dist cap on. Still nothing. They sent wrong rotor arm so still on old one. I flung in some dry fuel additive stuff in case. Block is very well earthed. Really should have used the 1.6 with dgav....

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as i asked earlier.are you using all the correct stock 2.2 stuff? .a 2.2 wont run properly on a 2.0 system & you mention it running badly before when you had cvarbs on it. what is the entire system you are using ? ps any distributor with the same type trigger device can be used to ``hand test ``it. at least you will know if its that

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sounds like you need another distributor to try.you seem to have checked everything else.any of the bosch electronic types will do as they all have the same method of signalling the control box.hopefully there should be something on ebay (mk2 astra,cav1.6,1.8,carlton sanator a,etc etc )to just plug to 3 pin lead & spin up to check.i could have helped you out no probs with sorting this but im way down in w yorks.sorry.just some final things to try,although im sure you will have already done this. ref haynes book for wiring/terninal numbers. check you have 6 wires in plug.1 goes to neg side of coil.1 goes to pos side of coil with ignition switch live.1 goes to earth.other 3 go to distributor pick up. make sure they all go where they should & that coil - & + are right way round. if this is on a car that was previously non electronic ignition make sure you have a DIRECT wire to the ignition switch,not a resistive feed like it used to be.i usually use the electric choke wire.

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one last thing to note & ive just done it myself by rushing & doing it from memery. the 2.2 does not have 6 wires going to the ignition trigger unit like most others so disregard what i just said about that. it should have only 5 pins in the plug not 6.the pick up unit in the distributor goes to the spark advance unit normally found on the top of the inner wing on the carlton it came from.this has to be there because 2.2 distributors do not have any centrifugal weights in them like normal 2 litre distributors.when you say you have all the 2.2 stuff i assume the oil temp ,air temp & vac switch are allthere although according to the diagram in the haynes book they are all in series anyway so a fault in any one of them would not realy cause a breakdown. you could do with a carlton haynes book if you can look at one. page 234 & 235.

i would imagine otherwise that you could use a standard 6 pin 2 litre ignition system although i dont know how it would perform. (advance wise ) hope some of this is of use to you mate......

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Right, it is not switching from "live on crank" (black and red wire off the top of the starter motor) to "Live when running" which is provided by the ignition switch.

All this magic goes on in that 4 pin plug that has a Blue wire (fuel pump) green wire (rev signal from coil) Black wire (live when running) and black and red wire. Live when cranked, from starter).

The wire colours might be a bit different but in the 4 pin plug all these must do what they are supposed to when asked or the car will not run, it might start for a bit but wont carry on.

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Got it running properly. Turns out plugging in the AFM was a good idea :lol:

I still have a switch rigged up to connect the coil signal to loom as it didnt switch over itself. Could be a handy wee immobiliser ;)

Can stlll hear air being drawn in even after reseating injectors with a touch of grease. Think the base plate on one pair has dodgy thread so not being held down properly. Also, it didnt seem to want to rev over 2k rpm but thats probably just throttle cable needing adjusted. pedal sitting a little low.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Was drawing air from brake servo hose.

Sorted that but sounds like a tractor, won't rev much above 2k and think the idle control valve no working S as won't start without throttle open a little. Engine dies if you let throttle off.

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