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Manta Resto


RECARDO
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Yep, noticed that when my GSI was done...

So I have two jacks in the trunk, one of a Vectra that fits under the front suspension arms.

Maybe I will fit a thinner arm on the original jack with a sliding tube to fit in both jacking points.

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What is the best way to remove all the old under body protection off the car as I have got a blaster coming after Xmas and he has said he needs it removed from the under side of the car? Also the outer sills I have dont have the front sections on them can you buy them or will I need to make them, thanks to everyone who has been giving me advise and guidnce so far 🖒😁

Edited by RECARDO
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Big over that ur gonna put ur turkey in! Or a blow torch, plummers type,

And a sharp woodwork chisel, or sharpening stone and wide paintscrapper.

Lots or fire and toxins, use gloves and mask, can see photos, if u have a spit, use if, if ur on ur back....... good luck!

The blasting media would just bounce of it as it is rubberised

Lovely job for xmas:ph34r:

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The rollover jig is perfect for this job, I must admit if there was a low point in my restoration this was it, a horrible job but it needs done. I used a twisted knot wire brush on a makita grinder, I needed both the flat ones and the ones at a slight angle, the cups were of no use. gloves and safety glasses for protection. The high tensile wire strands fly everywhere. A good Saturday and Sundays work should do it. I did front inner wings and back arches first then floorpans and chassis rails. It’s like chewingum if it gets hot and if you feel you are just spreading it around move on to a different place and let it cool then next time you go over it you will get rid of the stuff. Only concentrate on a small area at a time. I did the whole underside this way.

ps before you start take out shares in a wire brush company because you will definitely require a few, when you work them hard they soon disappear. At a guess I used approx 10. :thumbup

 

Edited by Mike.
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  • 2 months later...

Hi all been on with the mental work and cleaning the under side of the manta and was thinking about the rear axle, as I'm making a 400r I must have a 5x120 rear axle so it looks correct, I was looking to convert a 4ha Salisbury axle to the correct stud pattern as they come with a lad also any ideas lads 

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  • 2 weeks later...

After talking to retropower I have now decided to use a 56 inch 4ha rear axle, 

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But I would really like to keep the back seats standard, could I put the top link roads on a angle and attach them to the chassis legs as I have marked out in this picture?  any ideas welcome lads as I'm still in the long task of rust repairs 

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P.s that's not my underside in the pic but wish it was :D

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I thought it might keep the car more stable if it was 4 linked? I was doing some more searching on Google and found these pics, I know they are 400 rear ends but the top link arms are off set on a angle and are also quite short, I could try and make some new mounting brackets on the chassis around those areas, or would it not work?

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Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

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  • 1 month later...

Hi all just received my new 4ha rear axle and a r25/28 gearbox it looks like the gear selector will need some altering has anyone done this mod before, any advice is needed, I'm still undecided on where or how I will fit the top link bars on the axle 2, the axle came from a se6 reliant I will take some pics this week

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Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

Also which lower arms will I need commerdor A or B found a opel breaker on eBay with lots of old opel parts for sale? 

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  • 2 years later...

After along time I finally got a little work done on the manta tonight 🥳

Went up to the unit to see if my zafira bumper and bonnet were out of the paint shop after the wife had a bump 

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But they weren't so im still waiting 😭

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I got some modifications done to the manta ready for the rear axle upgrade, bought some GAZ rear coil overs and modified and strengthened the shock turrets got some pics 

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

I didn't have much clearance using the original rear shock mounts so decided to move them out by 1 inch, I have even thought about replacing the rear shock turrets but still undecided on what to do? I am using a 4ha 56 inch axle and going to try and 4 link it without loosing the rear seats, also has anyone put watts linkage on a manta? Did it make much difference the the way the handle? Still playing around with idea's on the rear axle, hoping to keep some motivation with the build but as you all know family and life take priority 

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Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

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Watts linkage is only going to show benefits if you have a requirements for long suspension travel.

However it is a superior setup then panhard, so for the sake of building another bracket on the o/s of the car??

Did your 4HA not come with the linkage that attaches to the diff cover?

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No the axle came as in the pics, but I was looking at making my own brackets for the axle and chassis as I don't think much to the rear diff casing, was looking to make a new bracket that I could remove if I need to service the difference like this one?

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

I am also making my own link bars to suit the 4ha axle, making all the from t4 tubing so should withstand the stress it might be under, and was thinking of reusing the anti roll bar?

Edited by RECARDO
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Rear ARB will be fine, probably not needed at all if you spring right. 
Linkage idea is also sound, so long as you have some  adjustments. Obviously that picture is of the rear axle with chassis jacked up, so once it sits at its ride height they will be parallel(ish)

the spring pans that weld to the axle tubes are still available new unless you are  going to upgrade turrets for coil-overs.

Edited by Jessopia74
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