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What Carb To Replace The Solex


Daveyboy20
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1978 Cav saloon in blue with black bumpers and trim, lowered on minilites :)

Well, that ain't going to be easy to miss, but I ain't seen it for sure.  Been up and down Wirral a fair bit over Xmas break, too.  Still, we only have to miss each other by 60 sec and it's as good a being out on the wrong day.

BJ

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Well to confirm the issue - carb bolts straight on no worries but the accelerator cable is a no go. It's 180 degree or on the solex and far too short to turn it. I'm trying to find a bracket and cable from a Ford to use instead. My daily is now or if action and I'm back in work on Monday - doh! Runs great though ;)

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  • 3 weeks later...

Cheers mate :)

Well I've managed to hook it up. I got a cable and bracket from a capri to do it. It runs brilliantly when warmed up - I was genuinely shocked by the huge torque gain and improvement in response. It goes like a stabbed rat in comparison to how it used to. It's rubbish in the morning though - manual choke appears to not do an awful lot and it misfires badly. It hasn't been setup at all, just lobbed on and used, but I'm sure it should be better than it is. I'm wondering if it's over fueling in the morning hence the misfire, it actually feels electrical but clears up a minute or two up the road so it must be fuel. Got a rattle now too, slightly concerning!

Edited by Daveyboy20
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Cheers mate :)

Well I've managed to hook it up. I got a cable and bracket from a capri to do it. It runs brilliantly when warmed up - I was genuinely shocked by the huge torque gain and improvement in response. It goes like a stabbed rat in comparison to how it used to. It's rubbish in the morning though - manual choke appears to not do an awful lot and it misfires badly. It hasn't been setup at all, just lobbed on and used, but I'm sure it should be better than it is. I'm wondering if it's over fueling in the morning hence the misfire, it actually feels electrical but clears up a minute or two up the road so it must be fuel. Got a rattle now too, slightly concerning!

You defo need to sort out the carb, get it set up and  get the manual choke working.  I actually did my swap specifically to sort out choke problems, and I promise you the manual choke works very well on these cars.  But you can overfuel easily - I pull mine to full choke to start, then immediately drop back to not more than 2/3 or maybe half (depends on temperature) on the choke control.  Don't try running on full choke, they don't like it.  You can reduce down to about 1/4 choke after maybe 1/2 mile, again depends on temp and exactly how the car is set up.

Fuel consumption and state of your plugs will show how well it's set up, just for starters, but it needs setting properly and you then get a pretty good blend of performance and economy.

BJ

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Cool. Well I've found a major issue causing problems. One of the nuts wasn't actually touching the base of the carb so one corner will have effectively been loose. I wound it off in order to pour a spacer on it and dropped it. It's gone forever, looked and looked and looked. I've gone through my whole spare nut and bolt collection and not one has the same thread. Does anyone know the thread size ? I'll be driving it held on the 3 nuts now - it's gonna be even better to start! Getting fed up of this car at the moment!

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Cool. Well I've found a major issue causing problems. One of the nuts wasn't actually touching the base of the carb so one corner will have effectively been loose. I wound it off in order to pour a spacer on it and dropped it. It's gone forever, looked and looked and looked. I've gone through my whole spare nut and bolt collection and not one has the same thread. Does anyone know the thread size ? I'll be driving it held on the 3 nuts now - it's gonna be even better to start! Getting fed up of this car at the moment!

Umm. Well, no, I don't know the thread, but if you get in touch with one of the UK Weber agents, they will tell you and sell you the correct nut.

Or, you could take the car to your local nut and bolt supplier (such as Leyton Fasteners of Ellesmere Port), undo one of the remaining nuts (without losing that one!) take it in and they'll match it for you.  

I would have thought Weber would be a standard fine metric thread.  If not, my best guess is that it's BSF or UNF.  Conceivably BA, but that's more likely to turn up on electrical fittings.

 

BJ

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Cheers mate, it's the thread on the stud from the cav manifold that needs matching up. It wouldn't start this morning - it may be succinct air in between carb and manifold. Had to take the girlfriend's car to work and leave it! I'll basically take the carb off and wind the stud out when I get a chance. I'll also investigate the dodgy noise and make sure it's all tip top before continuing to use it. Luckily there's a chance my other car will be mot'd this week so I can swap daily duties over to it and the cav can rest until I have time to look at it.

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Cheers mate, it's the thread on the stud from the cav manifold that needs matching up. It wouldn't start this morning - it may be succinct air in between carb and manifold. Had to take the girlfriend's car to work and leave it! I'll basically take the carb off and wind the stud out when I get a chance. I'll also investigate the dodgy noise and make sure it's all tip top before continuing to use it. Luckily there's a chance my other car will be mot'd this week so I can swap daily duties over to it and the cav can rest until I have time to look at it.

Yeah, lucky to have a spare car available so it takes the heat off this job a bit.

But if you have a nut - any nut - from the same type of stud elsewhere on the carb, you don't have to wind the stud out.  Just take them the nut, they will screw it onto the correct bolt from their stock, that gives you the dia/thread type, and you know what nuts to buy.

Or contach Webcon, I think they are the best Weber agent I dealt with.

 

BJ

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m8 metric fine 1.0 pitch. might have one if you are not too urgent to wait for post to arrive.

  if you take out the studs you can use a standard m8 1.5 pitch stud and nut as manifold threads are m8 1.5.

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