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Fuel Pump Electrical Question


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Hi Gents...





I brought down the tank and checked for rust.  Cleaned and re-installed.

I was wondering why the pump was working... grabbed my spare. A new BOSCH unit.

Still not working...

checked the connections.


Found out that when the ignition is turned on... my light tester (ECU safe)

would light up and die down in a second.


so I am getting power but is gone before it can run the pump.


Car is a 2.2 CIH engined Opel Rekord E2




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For the 2.0E you need a signal from the dissy to keep the pump running. This signal holds the injection relay on so the pump runs.


You just need to bridge the fuel pump relay terminals for the pump if you just want to run it all the time without running the engine.


Below is something I wrote long ago for the standard GTE fuel injection. I doubt the 2.2 is much different but please check for yourself.



Just in case it happens again, check the live feed to the coil on the relay. Think it's a black wire. It also passes through a connector on the back of the engine. Comes from the ignition switch.

I've had similar to you. Turned out to be this wire, loose in the relay connector. But when you swap relays it makes the connection good again for a short while.

You also have to have a signal from the hall sensor unit to switch the relay (green wire). This sometimes breaks down to!!

Off the top of my head I think the relay connections go something like this:

30 - permanent live, thick red cable.
87 - feed to fuel pump, thick white or blue
87b - feed to injectors, throttle switch etc, thick white or blue

15 - switch live from ignition switch for relay coil - thin black
1 - signal from ignition hall sensors, thin green
50 - switch live from ignition for relay and thermo time switch, cold start valve etc, thin red black
31 - earth for relay coil, thin brown.

Wire colours may vary on different cars .Also I might have the feeds the wrong way around. Some other manta nutter will probably correct me.

In an emergency or for testing purposes. If you suspect the relay then bridge terminals 30, 87 and 87b together. The pump should run (all the time!!!!) and you should have power to the injectors. The car should also start. You can drive like this but I wouldn't recommend it for too long.


If you know your amp/coil is good i think you can test your hall sensor like this.

Pull the three pin plug off the distributor. Put the king lead close to a suitable earth point. With the ignition on. Earth the blue/green wire(I think), on off on off etc.. This Should, if memory serves, give you a spark at the king lead. If you get a spark this way but not with the three pin plug plugged in (assuming you've tested for supply etc) then you hall sensor is dead.

All I can remember is that it is one of the outer pins that you earth. If you look at the Haynes manual wiring diagram you should be able to confirm which wire it is.

If i'm completely wrong i'm sure someone will correct me. This is only off the top of my head. Check out the haynes manual to confrim this before trying it.


Edited by Snowy
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