upk Posted February 8, 2015 Share Posted February 8, 2015 (edited) Yesterday my manta with its x20xev conversion would not restart after initially running and starting ok. Today after some reading on the net I first off cleaned the ICV and confirmed solenoid was operating ok. After refitting car started instantly on first turn and ran ok. Now it will not start again. I have a spark I have fuel on fuel rail but not sure if it's enough pressure although it did run earlier. I have tried my old crank sensor back on. Now I am scratching my head so any enlightenment will be welcome. Edited February 8, 2015 by upk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snowy Posted February 8, 2015 Share Posted February 8, 2015 The two most common causes of failure to run or start is the cam shaft and crankshaft sensor. I'm assuming you're running standard injection. The next I have encountered is an intermittent switched live connection to the coil. After that it could be anything. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
upk Posted February 8, 2015 Author Share Posted February 8, 2015 Yes it's all standard. It dud fire up again this afternoon and ran for a good 10 mins with no problem but I cannot get it to restart. Drained out all the fuel from the tank and put in a fresh can full. Purged through lines but hey oh no difference. Guess I need to get a new cam and crank sensor and see if that sorts it. At times like these don't you wish you had another known good engine to swap bits out of! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snowy Posted February 8, 2015 Share Posted February 8, 2015 http://www.autovaux.co.uk/product-cat/electrical/sensor-camshaft.aspx http://www.autovaux.co.uk/product-cat/electrical/sensor-crankshaft.aspx If you have the old style camshaft sensor they really do cause issues. Go for the new type. It comes with a section of loom to splice into your existing one. But to save wasting money do the paperclip test and find out what the fault codes are. http://www.topbuzz.co.uk/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
upk Posted February 8, 2015 Author Share Posted February 8, 2015 Thanks snowy. Unfortunately I can't do paper clip test as I did not wire in the ALDL port. I have spent the evening with my head in my wiring diagrams and think I have worked out how to put one in. Actually don't need to wire full port which helps as I don't have one! I reckon if I wire in the engine management warning light ( live feed to lamp then connect other side to ecu pin 52 and also to pin 2 of the imobiliser )and short pin 22 of the ECU to ground via a switch it's as good as? Honestly looking at pin out for the ALDL there is not much more I think I need to worry about. Before doing all this I will just check I am not loosing the switched live to the coil / immobiliser etc. could have a dodgy connection from the rebuild. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snowy Posted February 8, 2015 Share Posted February 8, 2015 I'd have to look at the3 diagram to be certain but it is only two wires you need. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan W Posted February 8, 2015 Share Posted February 8, 2015 (edited) Yesterday my manta with its x20xev conversion would not restart after initially running and starting ok. Today after some reading on the net I first off cleaned the ICV and confirmed solenoid was operating ok. After refitting car started instantly on first turn and ran ok. Now it will not start again. I have a spark I have fuel on fuel rail but not sure if it's enough pressure although it did run earlier. I have tried my old crank sensor back on. Now I am scratching my head so any enlightenment will be welcome. Had a mk3 cav with this engine. The ICV sometimes needed a couple of cleans for it to work consistently. I did replace most of the sensors along the way too but this valve was the cause most of the time. Great engine when running right though! Edited February 8, 2015 by Dan W Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
upk Posted February 15, 2015 Author Share Posted February 15, 2015 Based on the the fact it started first time after I had cleaned the IAC valve I decided to replace this as first off.......still no good it won't start. Over this weekend I have wired up the malfunction indicator lamp and carried out the blink count test. This is what I get in flash out order:- P1690- check light voltage low P0505- IACV voltage low P0110- intake air temp voltage low P0135- O2 sensor heating voltage low P0340- camshaft sensor incorrect signal P1502- imobiliser no signal P1503- immobiliser wrong signal I have checked continuity from every sensor on the engine back to the ecu connector. Battery was fully charged and been disconnected from car 24hrs before test, but I am concerned about the low voltage faults!! I have reconfirmed all wiring for the imobiliser and confirmed when key is not present mil light flashes repeatedly and is on constantly when key is next to transponder. Unless there is any more advice out there on this one I am going to replace camshaft sensor next as recommended by snowy and hopefully is the problem and causing other faults. I suspect immobiliser is an old fault from the rebuild as I did go ignition on once without transponder plugged in and I believe old faults do not reset unless done so by the use of appropriate device. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snowy Posted February 15, 2015 Share Posted February 15, 2015 I do have an ecu that the imobiliser has been deactivated, you are welcome to borrow it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
upk Posted February 15, 2015 Author Share Posted February 15, 2015 That's very kind of you snowy is it a Simtec 56.5 ecu by any chance? I will do cam sensor change first and see what happens. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wayne ingham Posted February 15, 2015 Share Posted February 15, 2015 HaveYou tried the hot/cold sensor ,it is blue wiring block 2 pin wiring block. Remove and refit wiring on sensor.This was a common fault (worked in a vauxhall garage )The sensor is on the coolant side of engine (inlet manifold ,cooling hose,rad Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snowy Posted February 15, 2015 Share Posted February 15, 2015 Yes. It was off a p reg calibra I had. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mantadoc Posted February 15, 2015 Share Posted February 15, 2015 Flash codes When the cam sensor and crank sensor disagree the engines run terribly. Disconnect the cam sensor and it runs perfectly with 4500RPM limit. Seeing as you have to disconnect before removing............. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snowy Posted February 16, 2015 Share Posted February 16, 2015 Flash codesWhen the cam sensor and crank sensor disagree the engines run terribly. Disconnect the cam sensor and it runs perfectly with 4500RPM limit. Seeing as you have to disconnect before removing............. Not true, the later engines will not run at all. And to prove the point I disconnected the cam sensor on my calibra and it does not start! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mantadoc Posted February 16, 2015 Share Posted February 16, 2015 97 X20XEV in my 96 Vectra ran fine barring the imposed 4500 RPM limit and was better than the misfiring when they were disagreeing. Same situation in wife's 97 Vectra, same engine. Both on Siemens ECU. They don't run without crank sensor. They go into limp with cam because they probably have to batch fire injectors from not knowing which 2 cylinders are are TDC at same time. IIRC Calibras stopped being made in 97 so about the same age. We'll have to beg to differ Either way he should be able to get flash codes to help diagnose. From the codes above immobiliser is likely. A lot of "voltage low" too so maybe a good charge and check battery terminals and earths. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snowy Posted February 16, 2015 Share Posted February 16, 2015 (edited) .... Edited February 16, 2015 by Snowy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
upk Posted February 21, 2015 Author Share Posted February 21, 2015 Sorted! Timing out by 2 teeth because belt tensioner set wrong and it jumped!! 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andyc Posted February 21, 2015 Share Posted February 21, 2015 That's a bit close, if you have a compression tester it might be worth just checking in case the valves have touched Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
upk Posted February 21, 2015 Author Share Posted February 21, 2015 That's a bit close, if you have a compression tester it might be worth just checking in case the valves have touched Andy Did a compression test and alls well. One lucky escape for me 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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