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Chassis Rail Repair


Snowy
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The car is solid enough. It just doesn't seem like a good idea. But if it works it works.

 

I did the drivers side chassis rail from underneath only cutting out sections at a time. But if you can cut the whole lot out without any issues then I will do the passenger side like that.

 

Thanks

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DSC_0069.jpg

 

DSCF2477.jpg

 

DSCF2500.jpg

 

I put a brace on mine which doubled as a dolly. Aldo supported the inner wings against the floor with 2 vertical props. I tried to do them bit by bit but ended up chopping the whole lot one side at a time. I used a bit of threaded bar like in your pics to keep an eye on the position of the chassis rail holes. The passenger side didn't move at all but the driver side had moved by about 1mm by the time it was done, see the 3rd pic, (the bar started out bang in the middle).

 

Anyway, not sure if it needed all that or not, maybe would only have a moved 1mm without it, but I felt a lot more comfortable about it!

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Most of the strength is in the inner wings and ' A' posts. I did those first and the sills on the ground so it was very strong.

Then I did one at a time and didn't put any stress on the shell when welding it

 

486_zps19p2zvz3.jpg

Edited by Kevin Abbott
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I always make sure the inner wing tops and upper A panels are solid then there is enough strength to transfer the load from the front to the main structure to

do a rail at a time easily.

You can even do the rail and sill the same side (assuming it's mostly just the outer sill)

If in doubt about the shell bracing never hurts, as long as you don't find you put it right where you want to access to weld later.

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