5 Speed In A-Series (Clutch)

[moodoo]

Guys,

I know this is a similar question to the one about clutch adjustment that's on here, but didn't want to hijack that thread...

I have just fitted a newly built 2.2 cih to my a-series, in place of a 1.9. Car has had a 5 speed box fitted by a previous owner.

With the new engine in, the clutch pedal is nearly on the floor. I guess the bigger thickness of the new flywheel and clutch assembly is causing the issue. I think I need to adjust the pivot bolt on the box, but I can't in a million years see how it could be doable with the box in the car. Maybe with the original 4 speed it was possible, but not the 5 speed.

By pulling the cable out of the rubber bulkhead thing, and moving the circlip a few grooves up I was able to get the clutch pedal nearly ok, but the clutch fork bottoms out on the cutout in the box now when the clutch is pressed.

Anyone know if it is somehow possible to adjust the pivot on a 5speed while in the car? The previous owner told me the box won't come out without taking the engine out, and I really really want to avoid having to do that again every time I want to adjust it, especially as I figure it might take a few goes to get right. I was even thinking a correctly placed hole drilled in the tunnel might let me get at it from inside!?!

One last thing, the measurement for clutch pivot distance (100 odd mm) that's in the Haynes A series manual, will that apply to my situation too, or am I on my own now that I've got too many non A-series bits?

Thanks,

Fin

[611]

Hey Fin

If i remember right there should be a big nut on the back of the pivot bolt, loosen this off and then the end of the bolt should have a square end, so you can then use a spanner to wind the bolt in or out, then lock the big nut to hold in place. (some one correct me if im wrong?)

 

See pics of bolf from inside mine and then outside where the big nut is.

 

Andy

 

 

[moodoo]

Thanks Andy. Yeh, I can see the pivot adjuster and locknut on my box OK, I just can't see any way to get a spanner on them, there just isn't any room to get at them. Any bright ideas?

 

BTW, as I mentioned, the previous owner said the box can't come out of the car without the engine out. I don't know why, I never had cause to look. Were you able to get your box in/out with the engine in?

[MANTAMAN]

 In the other thread mention was made of welding up a special spanner(s) to reach this nut and bolt

 

 The Bell housing being cast as one piece with front half of the gearbox means that it can not come back far enough to come out of the cluch before the top of the bell housing comes up against the transmission tunnel.

 

 i think the (Ha Ha) Haynes amnual suggest tipping the engine up and box down at an extreem angle to remove the box, it might be possible to lift the unbolt the engine from the box and it's mounts and move it up and forward, but by then you might as well take it out because you have done almost everything needed to do this.

 

 Perhaps the 'interesting solution' is to make a hole in the side of the transmition tunnel, a short vertical slot to give spanner movement space could work, just as long as it was not very big and compromised the strength of the transmition tunnel, make a cover plate with counter sunk screws to go over the hole and it would look quite neat

[611]

Hey Fin

As Mantaman there is no room to get the box out, it was never made to go into the A.

I did get mine out once, but it took so long with trying to jack the car up and get the engine on an angle to get the box to slide out without hitting the tunnel.

I would go for unbolting the front cross member and lifting the car up as it sounds like a lot of work but its not that bad. I built my engine and box, popped it onto the cross member and then lifted the car up and rolled it in under the car, dropped the body and bolted it on.

 

Im sure i will have to adjust mine so i might be going the same route or looking at some sort of crazy cut and welded up spanner affair. Sounds like you are close to getting yours going again?

 

Just doing the final check everything is all bolted up on mine and got to finish getting the dash back in and we will be ready to have a go at starting!

 

I might have a look at the box over the next couple of days as i have a bit of car time, so will let you know if i come up with a cunning plan :-)

 

Andy

[moodoo]

Thanks guys. Cutting the slot in the transmission tunnel sounds like a good idea. At least it would mean that I could adjust it again without having to go the whole hog of taking the engine out. In any case, I don't have a welder, so making up special spanners is not so easy. Not sure what sort of access I'd have to get in to make the slot, I'd probably be right up under the dash. If it looks feasible I might try it, if not I'll have to concede defeat and take the engine and box out.

[rutts]

19mm spanner cut ring end off weld on at 90 degrees this will loosen lock nut 8mm spanner on square part of pivot bolt will adjust. Haynes is a mile out on this.

gearbox does come out and in with a little struggle just done it on my own with a trolley jack.

My cable was too long so put two cable vibration blocks on bulk head end.

[wayne ingham]

I think I have a 19 mill spanner cut to 90 degrees if you need it let me know and I will have a look.

[wayne ingham]

Yes found it I made this for adjusting the clutch on my Manta some 19 years ago

[moodoo]

Hi Wayne, that's decent of you, thanks. Would you be happy to put it in the post? I'll send it straight back once I'm done.

[johnboy]

5 speed on an a series can be removed, tight to pull out but gravity helps, jack the front of the engine up to tilt it a bit, the near side of the transmission tunnel then needs readjusting a bit where the scrape marks are with a big hammer, repaint it a bit then box back in, that's how I did my a series, 2.0 s with 5 speed getrag.