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Posted (edited)

Need to remove my valves before my 2.4 head goes for modding, do I need a 16v C clamp with longer extension (opposite end to screw adjuster) to clear the head casting spring side???

Edited by GTEPETE
Posted

To remove the vaves ,if you place the clylinder head on a flat surface,place a socket over the vavle spring (about12/13 mill).hit the socket and the vavle colitis will pop out.But you will need a vavle compress to refit the colilts.

Posted

Looks like a nice bit of kit that. 

I have a couple of sealey ones and tried them on my 1800 head at weekend. 

They just didn't work. They seem to be missing the depth bit to compress the springs. 

Resorted back to my old faithful that I found in my loft when we moved into a house in 1984!

Posted (edited)

Wonder if you could locate a socket on top of spring retainer to gain some depth? then adjust C clamp to include depth of socket???

Edited by GTEPETE
Posted

Just been using my valve spring conmpressor, sliverline item to take out the valves on my Vauxhall Carlton head ( same dimensions as a Manta 1800 head )

I was struggling with the silly little handle when i had a 'Fu*£ this' moment, got some tube, put the welder on ' Chernobyl ' setting and perminantly attached a handle that now makes it easy to exert leverage against the valve springs.

Two things to consider about a valve spring compressor, first - does it have the range of movement needed, mine only just goes down small enough to do the Carlton cylinder head, second - throat depth, discovered this is impostant when trying to overhaul a friends BMW head, if the tubular part that goes ontop of the vlave spring is short the body of the compressor will contact the side of the head casting before the spring is compressed enough to get the collets out/in.

Valve spring compressor 1.jpg

Valve spring compressor 2.jpg

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