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Bodywork advices


Sven Hinka
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Finally, my Manta arrived. My apologies, but I have no pictures at the moment. But I've noticed some problems:

1. drivers door goes down. When you open the door, it feels like the door is going down WITH the A pillar. Kinda scared me to be honest
2. right chassis leg kinda missing. Between the swan neck and the end of the door, there is a piece missing. Probably from rust.
3. drivers side floor is almost gone. At the driver's side, the floor literally went down, from the drivers seat to the pedals. 
4. VIN plate(I guess...from my memory, VIN plate looks different) is off the body. I have it, but I really don't know if it's gonna cause me problems. To be more specific, is the plate from the driver's front corner

At the moment, this is what I've seen. Judging by those problems, is the shell salvageable or should I look for another one?

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Finally, my Manta arrived. My apologies, but I have no pictures at the moment. But I've noticed some problems:

1. drivers door goes down. When you open the door, it feels like the door is going down WITH the A pillar. Kinda scared me to be honest
2. right chassis leg kinda missing. Between the swan neck and the end of the door, there is a piece missing. Probably from rust.
3. drivers side floor is almost gone. At the driver's side, the floor literally went down, from the drivers seat to the pedals. 
4. VIN plate(I guess...from my memory, VIN plate looks different) is off the body. I have it, but I really don't know if it's gonna cause me problems. To be more specific, is the plate from the driver's front corner

At the moment, this is what I've seen. Judging by those problems, is the shell salvageable or should I look for another one?

1) Door pins wear so doors drop, if the hinge is moving in the pillar this can be re-welded, if the whole pillar is moving this is bad. How bad I do not know.

2) Sounds like you mean the jacking point is missing that runs from the bottom of the door pillar to the chassis. They can be bought.

3) Most of the front floor sections can be bought. Ask TJM or Retro Power

4) Front panels are frequently changed, the alloy plates on the front panel can therefore frequently be wrong. However, they do not count. What counts is the chassis number stamped in the floor under the flap or carpet at the side of the drivers seat assuming RHD car. Historically if the number is there and the rest of the floor gone I save that bit and spot weld it on top of the new floor panel making no attempt to hide this. If I had had stamps last time I did this I would have also stamped the chassis no in the floor. Not saying that is the right thing to do or recommending it but has to be better than throwing the chassis no away (if saveable)

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Seriously, it's the chassis leg. I have the jacking point, barely hanging to the rest of the car. I'll take a pic on daylight to show you. As for the door....it goes down at least 20 cm

Ahh between swan neck and the door I thought you meant out from rail to door pillar, you mean from the double thickness section back to level with the rear of the door?

If so that section is no big deal it is single skin and often missing to some degree

 

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Whoa baby!!

You need a full ' A ' post to do that and not just a cover. The hinge is rotted off completely

You need a good part from another car as the part you need isn't available as a pattern.

This is a picture of the inner structure you are missing as it's rotten, this I can repair by treating it all and painting with zinc rich paint then replacing the ' A' post cover with a new pattern part.

3E9C8CDC-307C-42EF-9215-DC06B09B21A1_zps

 

The chassis is standard manta rot and can be replaced using good pattern parts or salvage parts

From this 

484_zpst1atkie8.jpg

305_zps3mqhpaju.jpg

To this using pattern parts from TJM that fit really well

 

 509_zpsk95n3ch6.jpg

486_zps19p2zvz3.jpg

559_zpsalxxgc0n.jpg

Edited by Kevin Abbott
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Good on you !!

'Two Slot' hatchs are a rare car in the UK, be great to see one restored to glory.

I could get that shell and replace the front end but...It would mean the death of a Manta. And I try to avoid that. If it can be repaired, then we'll do it. Time is irrelevant. 

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The shell on gumtree has been sold

 

Very tidy work there Kevin!

Did you replace the jacking points, or clean/weld them up in situ?

I replaced the drivers side as the pass was very strong although I did tie them into the 3mm box section inner chassis as the standard way is to weld it to the 1.5 mm cover.

Full build thread in projects section for members:thumbup

I could get that shell and replace the front end but...It would mean the death of a Manta. And I try to avoid that. If it can be repaired, then we'll do it. Time is irrelevant. 

I have a  salvage drivers side full ' A ' post for sale.

Edited by Kevin Abbott
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Since I don't know the differences between Manta B and Cavalier MK1, I have to ask: is it from an Opel? If so, how much?

LE: I've seen the price on the other thread. Can you keep it till the end of the month? Reason is that I've got the MOT for the VW in a week, so I have to focus a bit on it at the moment

Edited by Sven Hinka
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Since I don't know the differences between Manta B and Cavalier MK1, I have to ask: is it from an Opel?

The Vauxhall Cavalier MK 1 in both Coupe and Hatchback form were the same as a Manta B MK 1 except for the lack of the slots in the nose panel.

The Cavalier MK 1 saloon, two and four door, where the same as an Ascona B except they had the same plain sloping nose panel as the Coupe and Hatch.

All early Cavaliers where built in mainland Europe, later they where built in the UK as well.

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Ok, I've found another problem, this time at the other A pillar: between the door's hinges, there is that stopping bar which prevents the door to open way too much. Well, that part is broken directly from the pillar itself. I've knocked the pillar to see if it's rotten, but it doesn't seem to be. Now, my question is: the base of that stopping bar of the door is welded directly on the pillar or on the cover? Just to know if I have to buy both A pillars or just one

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Passanger side

The piece of metal that holds the door strip is slotted in from behind the pillar if i remember correctly. Spot welded top and bottom.

Think this can be done by removing the kick panel inside the car. You should be able to feel the ends.this could be fitted if your pillar is all ok.

 

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