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mantaray

V6 engine conversion question

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Does any body know if the Calibra intake sits any lower than the Vectra set up. I'm trying to make room for a sump without moving the steering rack, but need to lift the engine a bit more and with the Vectra set up I can't go any higher without the need to cut the bonnet.tn_20151007_224215.thumb.jpg.9cfefd6aafe

The engine is resting on the steering rack and I only have about 5mm clearence under the bonnet.

tn_20151007_224323.thumb.jpg.eae6886de47

 

 

 

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I'm sure I have read that the FWD 2.5 models have a lower intake as this is what gets used when using the 3.0 in fwd cars to give clearance... or just ditch it all and fit 6 ITB's with stand alone management ;oP

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On ‎10‎/‎7‎/‎2015 at 22:53, mantaray said:

Does any body know if the Calibra intake sits any lower than the Vectra set up. I'm trying to make room for a sump without moving the steering rack, but need to lift the engine a bit more and with the Vectra set up I can't go any higher without the need to cut the bonnet.tn_20151007_224215.thumb.jpg.9cfefd6aafe

The engine is resting on the steering rack and I only have about 5mm clearence under the bonnet.

tn_20151007_224323.thumb.jpg.eae6886de47

 

 

 

Might be a question to ask on the calibra forums

Does look slightly lower, but you shift the intake over?

 

Edited by Snowy

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Sorted.

In the end I decided to mod the cross member, the same as i did to mine back in 97 not had any problems,so it's proven to work.

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tn_20151009_221655.thumb.jpg.2f5d84025e3

 

 

Edited by mantaray
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I had the exact same issue with my 1UZ transplant into a B.

Turned out I did not need to cut the cross member itself for the sump (motor 690mm high), just lower the rack 40mm....which in turn meant scalloping the cross member for the steering arm to pass thru as you have done.

Do the A's have the rubber coupling thingo on the steering shaft?

I had to cut the shaft and extend it so the rubber coupling did not foul on the cross member.

Interested to see what you do to get around the bump steer, I am caught in a situation where I have to have my car engineered and licensed, and legally I cannot modify the tie rod ends or the steering knuckle to get the tie rods to sit flat again....and with the steering rack lowered 40mm bump steer is totally unacceptable.

For now I have fitted different springs which gives me 75mm back to the front ride height, and levels the tie rods...but looks ridiculous...

After its licensed I can do whatever the hell I like so am all ears as to what you end up doing ;)

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Yes A's do have the rubber coupling damper on the steering shaft, Iike you I have extended the shaft but removed the damper, Yes you do feel the steering wheel rattle a bit more but I feel it also gives better feed back and steering response.

 

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Regards bump steer, yes when I first drove my A before having sorted it out properly the bump steer was ridiculous.

By the sounds of it, you will not be able to do what I did until you have her licensed.

Changed track rod end to Rose joints, and then had a spacer machined up. The top of the spacer has a taper and bolts into the steering arm just like the original ball joint. The bottom has a theed-ed end that goes through the Rose joint and a nut to clamp it all together.

Worked really well and never had any problems with MOT here in the UK.

 

aDSCF1921.thumb.JPG.013880e77c44483c281d

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 Chris you have done what i was thinking of suggesting, lowering the hub end pivot point to match the new rack position.

 On For.. Fo.. Frod front hubs the steering arm is seperate and bolts to the rear face of the hub, using machining facilities an arrangement of a similar design could be created for a Manta that would enable the original track rods to be used.

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I'm hoping to use something like this once licensed 

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Not sure why they are not legal here? 

Possibly because no dust covers? 

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