Jump to content

C20XE high idle and cutting out


Ems
 Share

Recommended Posts

The C20XE in my Manta idles at around 1500rpm at idle.  Diagnostics are clear.

On my drive home the car cut out about 6 times, there's also a clicking from the drivers side fuse box area.  I can't feel any relays clicking, could it be the fuel relay under the bonnet?  The ecu is on the passenger side so it can't be that.

Thanks

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It happened when I was doing 50-60mph, about 6 times - ignition light came on for a second so I accelerated and the lights went out.  All happened within the last couple of minutes of the journey. 

When I got home I let it idle (1500 rpm) - every time I touch the throttle I can hear what sounds like a relay click, I don't think it's any of the ones around the fuse box or the throttle cable/linkage making the noise.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've changed the coolant sensor as it was idling at 1800rpm (now 1500rpm) but the original was blue and the replacement was black - does anyone know if there's a difference other than the colour of the plastic?

Thanks again.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

It's cutting out again under load, any other suggestions?

No fault codes showing, over the last couple of months it's had new plugs, leads, distributor with new cap and rotor arm, reconditioned injectors, coolant sensor, crank sensor, fuel pump relay and new filters.  Should change the idle control valve this weekend weather permitting!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Also running a xe injection!

I am in the process of curing sameish problem, word of warning fuel relay may heat up, after said amount of driving or time and break down internally, cure! buy an original gm unfortunately. 

Fuel pressure, fitting a gauge to rail, if it stops, intermittent pump or relay, you can tell, without much hassle.

Also fuel pressure reg, fitted to injection rail, could be worth asking andy if available new, aftermarket adjustable version is available, but its pricey. Gauge will suss this out

Keep us informed on your progress......

But it is hard to trace, make sure your switched ign to coil wire is sound.

Possible coil breakdown.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

It's getting worse.  Last weekend I drove the car for about 5 minutes, it cut out and wouldn't restart - I even tried a new fuel pump relay.  The car came back on the back of a recovery truck! 

Prior to the breakdown I fitted a new ICV and it ran fine other than still having a high idle.  A couple of weeks ago it started cutting out and taking a while before it would re-start, this happened several times - there were no fault codes.

A couple of nights ago I fitted a new coil, but it still wouldn't start.  This morning I fitted new plugs as the old ones were sooty and had done 140 miles! 

The car started and I let it idle for a while and checked the fault codes which were clear.  I then switched off the engine and left it for a couple of minutes.  It started again and I left it idle and after about 5 - 10 minutes the car cut out.  This time it won't restart.

Checked the codes again and it says the hall sensor on my new dizzy has failed, also the body of the dizzy gets quite hot - I guess this is normal as it's attached to the head.

Any suggestions would be helpful as I'm rapidly getting fed up with the car!

Thanks again.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

They are fairly basic engines, if its not fuel, it could be spark, check your switched ignition wire running to the xe loom! 

These looms are well past their expected life, especially an engine loom, would you consider a rewire, complete, or try a different loom.

Only three sensors affect ignition, crank sensor, cam sensor, and temp sensor. Your gonna need goodluck with your mission. Or a match!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

A match is out of the question, might have to sell it instead!

Thinking about it, the engine just turns over with no hint of wanting to start.  Can the crank sensor fail without giving fault codes?

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 4/16/2016 at 0:43 PM, Ems said:

Checked the codes again and it says the hall sensor on my new dizzy has failed

Did you check this further? Your symptoms of the car stopping dead, then refusing to start etc would point towards a hall sensor issue. They can break down and cause intermittent starting, or just fail completely. It 'could' possibly be causing the idle issue too, as your ignition timing may be fluctuating if bits inside have moved/broken.

Maybe worth asking anybody if they have a spare dizzy to try?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Car starting again, changed the ECU for another one and I left it idle for 30 minutes.  The revs dropped a few times as if it was going to stall, but they picked up again.  Now there are no fault codes!

Still idling at around 1300rpm when cold and 1800rpm when hot, can't find an air leak so might adjust the linkage.

Might risk taking it for a drive later, hopefully I'll return without a breakdown truck!

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thank you for all the suggestions.  There's free play in the cable.  I've tried finding a leak, the throttle body to manifold and powercap have been re-sealed.  I'll continue with my quest during the week.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...