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1985 GTE Hatch restore / tidy


Spitandpolish
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  • 2 months later...

So its taken me weeks, due to other tasks and missing bits etc but finally the tank is ready to go back in the car:

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There was something in the tank so out came the sender as I thought it was the float. Turned out to be one of these:

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I think these lead pellets were intended to help add lead, when 4 star fuel was phased out. So, should it go back in???!!!

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Edited by Spitandpolish
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Looking forward to seeing this hatch back on the road soon & hopefully joining us Bristol & vicinity members in a few meets during 2017.

The Lead pellets sack is best placed in the bin, the best way to protect unhardened valve seats is an additive such as Castrol lead substitute or if your only doing short distances & low mileage then you can probably  get away with no additive.

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3 hours ago, Rapierdave said:

Looking forward to seeing this hatch back on the road soon & hopefully joining us Bristol & vicinity members in a few meets during 2017.

The Lead pellets sack is best placed in the bin, the best way to protect unhardened valve seats is an additive such as Castrol lead substitute or if your only doing short distances & low mileage then you can probably  get away with no additive.

Dave - am looking forward to that too! big push to get it back on the road in Feb...

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Nice hatch with registration which is local to my area. some great work there. that tank looks great in may get round to doing mine one day.. a note on the head having hardened seats and being able to run on unleaded.  on the side of the head, spark plug side there's a flat area if it's stamped p2e you can run on unleaded with no ill affects .

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15 hours ago, Spitandpolish said:

Thanks, there is a casting mark that appears to say 14b

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The engine is pretty dirty though, so i may have missed a stamp. Would it be closer to the bulkhead, or front of the engine?

That appears to be cast (raised) not stamped (indented)

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The heads marked with following are also able to run with unleaded:

XR22 (engine 2.2E)

P22 (engine 2.2E)

X24 (engine C24NE) 

Those 3 heads have other inlet ports so you need original inlet manifold or (better) shortened 6 cilinder manifold.

 

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  • 1 month later...

Sadly, no markings on the head, so it looks like some additives might be needed. On the upside, the tank is back in the car, the sender works well and it now runs and drives with no leaks!

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Also, the drivers seat had usual bolster wear issues

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Its not easy uploading photos here...

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Very pleased with the repaired seat, all new black cloth sections changed

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I also managed to alter some Range Rover headlight wiper blades to fit. Not ideal, but looks Ok

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2 hours ago, Spitandpolish said:

Sadly, no markings on the head, so it looks like some additives might be needed. On the upside, the tank is back in the car, the sender works well and it now runs and drives with no leaks!

Might be easy to buy a spare later cylinder head that is unleaded ready, for in the future you need to do any engine work.

Some nice work on the seats and the tank looks fresh :thumbup

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  • 1 month later...

So now to the most challenging bit, so far. The sunroof. The previous owner had a leaky seal and so replaced it with black silicone. A nightmare to cut out, but probably the reason why there is so little rust, compared to most.

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I have a replacement seal from East Kent trim, which i assume fits to the sunroof panel:

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Assuming that is right, how is the seal attached at the rear of the roof panel, where it becomes a flat tray and there is no virtical flange???

 

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Any photos of the seal fixed to the rear of the roof panel, very much appreciated.

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  • 1 month later...

Calipers went off to Bigg Red last week

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And came back this week...

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Great service and quality, for £129.

sunroof repair and final paint in two weeks time. Hopefully back on the road permanently, first week of June.

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  • 9 months later...
On 01/04/2017 at 17:28, Spitandpolish said:

Assuming that is right, how is the seal attached at the rear of the roof panel, where it becomes a flat tray and there is no virtical flange???

 

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

Any photos of the seal fixed to the rear of the roof panel, very much appreciated.

I'm stuck on this bit too now any news of photos will help please

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Thats exactly how I did it, used a stanley knife to cut into the bottom of the U channel section, and removed enough to simply glue it on with contact adhesive. Will try to find you a photo over the weekend.

This is the only one I can currently find, shows the seal being cut down.

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  • 5 months later...

So after deciding to sell the car due to lack of use and time to spend on it, for some reason I now cannot stop tinkering every evening:

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Inlet manifold next, after some heat proof silver paint

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