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86 hatch not firing


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lads having some bother with my new hatch it hasn't started since I got it and I've been fiddling with it over the last few days looked over the wiring diagram on the fuel pump and relay I'm not getting any voltage on top or bottom of the fuse for the fuel injection I assume there should b 12 v there on top the whole time if I bridge it out  the pump will kick in but it still will not fire is there anything else I can try the relay is ok and I have a spare 1 as well 

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  • 2 weeks later...

2P trick, if it runs you know where the problem is,  Plus you should hear the pump run instantly

 

Would save guessing..........

 

http://forums.mantaclub.org/topic/12777-injection-relay-limp-home

 

 

 

 

 

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On ‎24‎/‎08‎/‎2016 at 11:02, veron said:

lads having some bother with my new hatch it hasn't started since I got it and I've been fiddling with it over the last few days looked over the wiring diagram on the fuel pump and relay I'm not getting any voltage on top or bottom of the fuse for the fuel injection I assume there should b 12 v there on top the whole time if I bridge it out  the pump will kick in but it still will not fire is there anything else I can try the relay is ok and I have a spare 1 as well 

Have you touched the green wire near the coil that goes into the main loom?

This is responsible for the injection knowing when to open AND to run the fuel injection relay and the rev counter.  Sometimes people remove this and put the green from the amp to the coil direct to eliminate issues, they then get a spark but no fuel / fuel pump.

Some times those connectors break internally.

 

The nature of the amp is to power up, then if no dizzy rotation detected shut off.  This means often the rev counter will twitch when ignition goes on if all this is working (not 100% reliable measure)  A test lamp on the green is a better confirmation

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The power goes through the relay then the fuse box. So you will only get voltage at the fuse when either cranking or when the engine is running.

From when the car last ran to when it wouldn't run have you done any work on the car at all ?

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8 hours ago, mantasrme said:

The power goes through the relay then the fuse box. So you will only get voltage at the fuse when either cranking or when the engine is running.

From when the car last ran to when it wouldn't run have you done any work on the car at all ?

Not actually true, that 2 seconds of power when the amp powers up without cranking or running is why people think they hear the pump prime.  It is nothing so complicated, just an unintended side effect of the amplifier design.

 

2p trick just runs the pump (even a defective relay must still be fitted for car to work)

However, the stuff I still said above regarding green wire still applies maybe separately or in conjunction with green wire.

A test lamp on it at various places could seriously help.

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

ok almost to the bottom of this does the fuel regulator need a certain preassure to operate the fuel is getting as far as this but no further i also had a spare 1 but same proiblem its just the fuel not making it to the rail would it be that the pump isnt strong enough

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After having problems with a GTE I feel your pain. The reg on the fuel pump setup can be removed so the pipe goes from pump out to filter in. 

The reg on the rail at the engine will keep the injectors at pressure if it's working correctly 

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I was looking through another tread on here does the feed from the pump go to the t piece or to the regulator the Haynes manual says it goes to the regulator 

Swapped this round still no joy fuel is getting to the rail now but not through the injectors the plugs are bone dry any ideas iv swapped the ecu 

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from what i gather fron the previous owner he had it in his garage and couldnt get it started i think its been lyin inside for a while last tax disc is 2005  the fuel is on the rails but n ot getting through the injectors plugs are bone dry and they are new and i have a spark on all 4 could the injectors be blocked i did drain the tank and there was a fair load of sh1t in it ??

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55 minutes ago, veron said:

iv discovered two green wires that are going from over at the coil to nowhere but i think there for the oil preasure sensor as theres no cables attached to that

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Those are the BLUE & GREEN wires connected to the loom by the heater?  If so they are the oil pressure warning light and oil pressure gauge sender wires

36 minutes ago, veron said:
36 minutes ago, veron said:

 

 

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These are the green wires I am talking about.

There is a fuel pressure regulator on the inner wing. Is one fitted?

Note: When some one asks 3 questions, for a reason, and you answer one question, then you are not helping us to help you.  Happy to try and help but not going to ask the same question multiple times.

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The oil warning and pressure wires don't matter for starting (unless bare and touching something that matters).  I would unplug that off the car loom for now.

So have you had a test lamp on the green wire connected to the coil terminal ?

Behavior should be that it lights up the test lamp for about two seconds and then goes out if not cranking.

(of course that behavior can be simulated by disconnecting and then reconnecting the black wire spade terminal (with ignition on) from the main loom to coil amp loom so this can be done single handed.  Of course all health and safety precautions should be taken to avoid shock.  Do a risk assessment, if in doubt do not start etc)

 

This same behavior should be seen on the green wire in the 4 connector multiplug on the bulkhead by heater that runs into the injection loom.  This should also be able to be seen on the terminal in the ECU mutiplug -which can of course be checked single handed while sitting next to the ignition key and if the green wire passes that "end to end" test then the first two tests should be redundant.

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  • 1 month later...

its alive i finally got it started now it sounds awful but theres a bit of tightening up to do which was left from the previous owner .the problem as it turns out is that some fcuker jammed the plug behind the block into the connector the wrong way round and i only noticed it when i was going round double checking all the connector plugs for tightness i plugged it out and seen there was a lip on one side of it and it had been facing the wrong way most of the reason the last guy sold it was that he couldnt get it going suppose it just shows the smallest of things can catch ya out anyway thanks guys for all the help in the above posts its never any harm learning

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