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Auto 1900 cig coupe- getrag conversion!


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Hi all! Just wondering how big a job it is to convert the cavvy to 5 speed manual? More importantly, how much fabrication/ alteration to the tunnel is required? I noticed a getrag box from a GTE was available quite local to me... and while going manual is quite an attractive thought , I'm not sure if I'd go for it unless it was pretty reversible without too much drama in case I ever want to sell her on. Original cars are a rare commodity these days sfter all! Any thoughts are welcome!! Always nice to hear opinions on these things :) 

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You'll need the gearbox, flywheel, clutch, clutch cable, manual pedal box, propshaft, centre console and gaiters for inside. I don't know whether the auto tunnel top needs any 'adjustment' for the 5 speed gearlever, but I do know that the mounts under the car for the gearbox crossmember are in the right place on an auto for a 5 speed Getrag to bolt straight up. Relatively straightforward job, I've done a few 4 speed to 5 speed conversions but never done an auto.

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You can just add the clutch pedal to the existing pedal box (if you like the big brake pedal - liked it)

Speedo cable may or may not fit (length)

Optionally add clutch pedal warn light (piggy backs into handbrake warning light connector )

Don't forget clutch cable damper, make sure piece of metal to mount this is on engine side of pedal box, just blanked


Oh yeah, the centre console screw for both types go into 3 plastic fittings in the tunnel top.  Rear near handbrake is definitely in same place ani IIRC front 2 are.

If your tunnel section includes these holes when bought you can:

  1. Drill our spot welds to separate 5 speed lever tunnel top
  2. locate this by aligning 3 holes mentioned and pushing fittings in
  3. draw cut line where you removed 5 speed section from to transfer hole shape required onto car
  4. remove
  5. cut
  6. fit - weld or rivet / captive nut or whatever if you prefer removable but seal
  7. fit 5 speed centre console


  1. Just cut top and improvise e.g. old / any gator on new lever
  2. or shorten linkage to pop new lever out old hole.........some people use age appropriate manual lever
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3 hours ago, mantadoc said:

Rear near handbrake is definitely in same place

absolutely right, i used this screw location hole as a datum point to locate the 5-speed tunnel pressing, if you can get hold of this pressing it makes a much neater job because it gives a location bezzal for the gear stick gaiters.


3 hours ago, mantadoc said:

Speedo cable may or may not fit (length)

The auto cable has a right angle elbow drive into the box, the 5-speed is straight in, but the elbow drive may fit the 5-speed but i've tried it.

 the speedo drive in the rear of the 5-speed box will need to come from an 1800 Manta to match the rear axle ratio.

4 hours ago, spiney_norman said:

You'll need the gearbox, flywheel, clutch, clutch cable, manual pedal box, propshaft, centre console and gaiters for inside.

 and a spigot bearing that goes in the end of the crankshaft to support the nose of the gearbox shaft.

 Also may need to alter the wires going to the reversing light switch on the side of the 5-speed gearbox.

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3 hours ago, spiney_norman said:

You're dead right Ian, I forgot about the spigot bearing. I can supply them from the motor factors I work in btw :)

Me too 

my old 81 W reg 2.0 SR HAD BEEN MANUAL 4 speed converted  before I got it 

I liked the big stop pedal

when i reshelled my F ref exclusive I had to keep the auto to make enough original content to keep the reg with a second hand manual shell so I did the tunnel conversion backwards

Then the auto engine with 150k was added to J reg for another 100k and that was when it grer a spigot - although not sure if Ann unused one was in there when the drive plate came off

Don't forget the clutch arm / fork return spring, the 12mm AF domed nut and the 11mm AF lock but that all live on the clutch cable 


oh oh and that clutch cable should be tightened a specified distance (108 IIRC and I probably don't ) and after that adjusted with the ball joint end of the clutch arm

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Thanks for the info chaps - I think I understand it all - and what I dont will probably become clearer on the job! Doesnt sound tooo bad, although Id hoped the prop would fit. Looks like a few bits would need o be sourced then - Im in no rush though really. Just wether to pick up this box if its still available... decisions decision!! lol

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1 hour ago, Berlinetta said:

The enhanced 'drivability' of a 5-speed appeals - but the originality of keeping the auto box is another factor for me.

 Get a GM 4 speed auto, Carlton ones will need the gearbox ECU wiring in but i think it just needs a supply otherwise it's a stand alone unit ( what i was told but might be wrong about this ).

 The Box is approx the same size except it's 110mm longer so you'll need to get the prop shortened and get inventive creating a rear mounting, a friend did this with his Commadore and it transformed it, with lower revs it would cruise at 70 on the motorway doing over 30 mpg, instead of around 20 mpg with the engine howling around.

 I am going to do this with my 1976 Manta ( in the avatar, to the left ) if one day it finds it's way back to the head of the restoration que.

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1800 has the starter on the other side, so the clutch fork comes out on the left, longer clutch cable otherwise same box as CIH just front of bell housing cast differently.

As with any 16V take care to carefully route the battery cable across as there have been battery cables dropped down onto engine / bell chaffed /cooked through insulation and fires  (happens to standard family II installs as well)

16 hours ago, Berlinetta said:

Auto Manta's must be a rare breed nowadays??

So are allegros, but that's ok

Edited by mantadoc
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