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IanMc

Polar White and Rust - a restoration epic, can it even be done?

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15 minutes ago, Jessopia74 said:

Great to see it back in Ian, good job 👍

Thanks Jess, it could be better - but I did it myself and I am kind of proud of that.

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1 minute ago, IanMc said:

Thanks Jess, it could be better - but I did it myself and I am kind of proud of that.

Indeed mate , plus As you say it will definitely be far better once it falls into shape. 

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Brilliant effort, so now on to the drivers seat 😜

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49 minutes ago, Mike. said:

Brilliant effort, so now on to the drivers seat 😜

Thanks Mike - yep, here we go again 😂👍

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That’s a lot better then l could do .looking very good indeed 

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The Drivers side seat was removed earlier, so now I am in the process of stripping that down.

As it is just a repeat of the Passenger side, I am not going to bore you with repeating the above text and photos etc.

However, if I do decide to try to lower it a touch, I will post what I have done in the attempt.

Have a good day everyone - stay safe, stay well.

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Small update for you all.

I have been thinking through some of the suggestions in my seat lowering thread (please refer to the thread in Basic Technical Help section) and think that I will go for the 'cut and shut method.

Assuming my measurements and high school trigonometry are something like correct, I have calculated that by removing 25 mm length from the frame tube I can get the following:

- With the seat in its most forward position, I can gain an additional 20 mm of headroom.

- With the seat in its rear most position, I can gain an additional 25 mm of headroom.

As I usually have the seat in approx the mid to 2/3 back position, I should achieve around 22-23 mm of additional headroom. So i think that this is the way that I am going to go...

I will be sure to update you with photos etc as I progress.

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Hi Ian, pretty much what I was thinking .

Just remember that the cut on the right side will actually make a gap, might be worth cutting at least 2cheese wedge shapes out, one above, one below, to allow it to collapse its height, maybe more would be better. Otherwise you will need to extend the tube over

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36 minutes ago, Jessopia74 said:

Hi Ian, pretty much what I was thinking .

Just remember that the cut on the right side will actually make a gap, might be worth cutting at least 2cheese wedge shapes out, one above, one below, to allow it to collapse its height, maybe more would be better. Otherwise you will need to extend the tube over

 

Thanks Jess, yes exactly! - I had actually considered that - please see below.

So the cutting is done and we have this:

 

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

 

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

 

As Jess mentions, you are then faced with the problem of the angled section of tubular frame not reaching far enough across to be able to make a joint. I plan to construct a bridge piece using this piece of plate Steel:

 

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

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Posted (edited)

Can you use the straight bit that was cut out along the bottom of the tube/ seat runner to extend the runner so it will match up

Edited by 1200bandit

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1 hour ago, 1200bandit said:

Can you use the straight bit that was cut out along the bottom of the tube/ seat runner to extend the runner so it will match up

Probably Wayne, but to be honest I think that it would be more difficult and I’d be a little worried about the strength of it.

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Ian good progress there, unless i missed something in an earlier post if you just chop the front won't you be facing down to the dash?

Looking at the frame it would be very difficult to lower the back, would you be happy with this new driving position?

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1 hour ago, bris jas said:

Ian good progress there, unless i missed something in an earlier post if you just chop the front won't you be facing down to the dash?

Looking at the frame it would be very difficult to lower the back, would you be happy with this new driving position?

Hi Jason,

Yes, the seat will be angled ever so slightly downward at the front.

To be honest, I don’t really expect to notice any difference in driving position. And even if I did, I don’t think that it will annoy me as much as the top of my head touching the roof liner lol

I guess that we will just have to wait and see.

The other thing that I did think about to counteract this was ‘sculpting’ the seat base foam slightly to bring me level again.

once the frame is welded up, I will bolt it in the car and lay the foam over the top to see how it feels.

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Quick update.

I managed to get the welding done over my lunch break (working from home now...) and dressed them off quickly with a flap wheel.

 

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

 

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

 

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

 

Everything seems to still hinge correctly and it sits level - always a positive lol

Its not particularly pretty, but it is certainly very strong, which I was worried about.

I will probably fit the backrest temporarily this evening and bolt it back in to see if I now clear the roof in my preferred seating position.

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Great job Ian.

Can the rear brackets be removed from the frame at the top, trimmed and then welded. You might not get as much, but possibly 1/2” ?

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14 hours ago, Jessopia74 said:

Great job Ian.

Can the rear brackets be removed from the frame at the top, trimmed and then welded. You might not get as much, but possibly 1/2” ?

Not sure mate, I will take a little look later.

 

Well, this morning I did a quick trial fit and discovered that Mr Dumb had struck again  :lol:

Why did it not occur to me to investigate why the front of the Drivers seat frame is a different shape to the Passenger side?!?!?!

The reason is that there is a bulge in the trans tunnel to floor area at that point... you can see it here in the center of this photo:

 

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

 

So when you put a butchered seat in like mine, you get this:

 

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

 

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

 

Yes the elbow of the frame now hits the bulge and wont allow you to bolt the seat down - oops!  :lol:

Oh well I have some 25 mm tubing and some more plate, so I will just re-profile that area over the next few days and let you know how it all goes.

Yet another school boy error!

Take care everyone x

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2 hours ago, Jessopia74 said:

Move the pickup onto the frame over?

That would be the easy solution, but unfortunately that (hinged joint) connection point is a peened over rivet type joint. I could probably nut and bolt it to make it work I suppose, but I think I would rather try just modifying the frame itself first.

Thanks for the suggest though mate :thumbup

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23 hours ago, IanMc said:

Quick update.

I managed to get the welding done over my lunch break (working from home now...) and dressed them off quickly with a flap wheel.

 

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

 

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

 

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

 

Everything seems to still hinge correctly and it sits level - always a positive lol

Its not particularly pretty, but it is certainly very strong, which I was worried about.

I will probably fit the backrest temporarily this evening and bolt it back in to see if I now clear the roof in my preferred seating position.

You will never see it as long that is works

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Some work done to the Drivers seat mounting frame this morning to try to overcome/correct my stupid error.

I decided to cut the frame right back to down leg of the right hand (as you look from the pedals) pivot point:

 

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

 

My thinking was to try to weld another piece of tubing parallel to,  and just about 6 mm below the main seat frame - something like this:

 

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

 

After welding everything back up straight, it all worked OK:

 

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

 

I did think of trying to add some extra weld to that smaller diameter to build it all back up to the same size - but its already very strong and who is going to go looking at that anyway, so didn't bother. Of course there is still a little more weld dressing to do, but that's a job for later.

 

Then it was time to try it in the car:

 

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

 

Success! - it all clears the bump in the floor/trans tunnel and there is full movement forward and back. But what about the headroom?!, I hear you cry - the whole reason for doing this in the first place of course. Again success, I now have clearance from 1/4 back on the seat rail, right through to the rearmost seating. My preferred seating position is somewhere between those two points, so all good - very pleased.  :thumbup

Now I can make a start on the seat covers for that side... :)

Take care all x

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14 hours ago, Jessopia74 said:

Great idea Ian, any thoughts on the rear now?
 

Yes I have Jess and my thoughts are:

1) What I have already done has fixed my problem.

2) If it aint broke (anymore), dont fix it.

3) I actually prefer the front of the seat slightly dropped as it helps my sitting position with my dodgy knees  :lol:

3)You will probably only mess something else up if you start messing about again

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