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Jacking points - any rules, regulations?


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Hi All,

I think that at least one of the jacking points on my Cavalier Coupe is 'suspect'.

This has led me to start thinking about possible alternatives to the standard/factory type jacking points. While I appreciate that these are not particularly expensive at around £30-35, are there any alternatives?

As my car is minus the original 'goes in the tube' type single arm jack anyway, I would almost certainly only ever use my trolley jack (at home), or a flat top scissor jack or a bottle jack if out and about. So my thinking was to possibly replace the standard jacking point(s) with a piece of substantial flat plate - say 5 mm thick.

I assume that this would need to be welded to the main chassis runs, but is there anything else that I have missed here?

As always, thoughts, comments and past experiences gratefully received  :thumbup

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On my old Manta I made the jacking points from some box section and 3mm steel, then welded it the main chassis and floor.  Never had any problems with the MOT and just used a trolley jack.  You could always add a lip to the flat plate and use a scissor jack off something like a Golf.

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The original front jacking point extends on the outer edge inside the inner sill, maybe strength is needed here too if you are making something new.

As said, box section, and flat plate, will make something strong, but if you do buy replacements, remember to change the tube to the original, as the new ones wont fit an original jack.

Have you ever seen a works 400, its either plated off are boxed off. 

Im in the process of another new project, buying new points, but will add extra plating to the inside, as car may be up in the air alot, wrc rally style! 

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I mentioned this many months ago somewhere on this FORUM, I also did away with the front jacking points, and plated the area with thick plate the same size as the base plate on the original jacking popints, at the next MOT test I pointed out to the tester what I had done and he said " excellent job" and there they are to this day, I carry a scissor jack in the boot, tucked behind the spare wheel, never had cause to use it, touch wood, but use a trolley jack when at home.

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I used 4x2 box section on mine. Be the only bit left when the rest has rotted away:lol:

Will see if I can get a photo up if I can figure out this photobucket carry on again...

 

Edited by biffy1984
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7 hours ago, biffy1984 said:

I used 4x2 box section on mine. Be the only bit left when the rest has rotted away:lol:

Will see if I can get a photo up if I can figure out this photobucket carry on again...

 

Much appreciated, many thanks :thumbup

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17 minutes ago, Julian said:

I really do envy you guys that can put photos up, cos I have failed every time this last 7 or 8 years!!

Morning Julian,

I will send you a DM with my E-mail address, then you can always send photos to me and I will post them for you with pleasure.

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I treated the rust on my existing A series jacking points, then boxed / welded them in,  using thick steel plate.  When away from home,  I intend to use a modified scissor jack, with a locating pin in top, so it does not slip off the mounts. At home I would use my trolley jack under, under the suspension arms.

 

 

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If the side sections of the original jacking point are solid and its only the middle bit with the tube thats rotted then i see no problem with putting a flat plate of a decent thickness across the whole area and doing away with the tubes. I personally didnt like them and use a normal trolley jack anyway .same applies at the rear. 

I did replace the jacking points on one of mine with the bought replacements and left the new tubes in even though they are the wrong size because same again,no intention of actually using them and then they do at least look original.

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