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Nivlek2525

1981 Manta Coupe Project.

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Impact driver massively helped us to shift this bolt..

needed my lads help, impacccct driver  ear defenders & club hammer....it is no longer stuck 😆

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4 hours ago, ®evo03 said:

Ah should have tried kerosene, not to burn it, ☹️

To soak it, you can soak a rag and wrap it, once cleaned you could have reused it. Aw well, No permanent harm done

 

I've not damage anything yet...and although I've not used kerosene I've been soaking them in WD-40 since I got the car a month or two ago.  The passenger side came out no problem so I thought I'd cracked it.  The driver's side just isn't having it. It turns freely but rotates the steel sleeve and rubber mount and I can't hold it still. If I can't get to it this weekend I might try the kerosene trick.

Cheers.

1 hour ago, markyspark said:

Impact driver massively helped us to shift this bolt..

needed my lads help, impacccct driver  ear defenders & club hammer....it is no longer stuck 😆

Yes, that probably would have helped but my oldest is only 7. Too young for a club hammer?

3 hours ago, IanMc said:

I gave up on mine and just cut thew bolt head off and bashed it through to the center of the car (with the help of plenty of penetrating fluid).

Once the arm is off with the bolt stuck in it, I cut through the old bolt between the washer and the rubber. Once the nut and washer were out of the way the thing came apart quite easily. This of course assumes that you are going to replace the now useless bushes like I did. If you have a look at my project thread you will see the bushes fitted and a link to show where to buy them - they are relatively cheap!

By the way, to do what I have described on the drivers side requires the exhaust to be out of the way - otherwise the bolt hits the pipe as you drive it through.

Best of luck matey.

Hi, yes, this is the conclusion I've come to. Big hammer didn't work. Big G-clamp and socket didn't work. Molegrips on the steel bushing didn't work. By the time I decided it needed the grinder it was 11pm and I'm trying to stay in the next door neighbour good books.

I'll check out you thread thanks.

My next post will be of the subframe remove, hopefully this side of Christmas.

Thanks all!

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When the bolts are stuck there is very little you can do.

 

I weld a nice long bolt head to head on the stuck bolt and then use a bit of scaffold tube and a thick washer and a nut to pull the old bolt out, the tube sits against the chassis leg and you wind it out with a socket on a long bar.

its a good way of saving the bushes.

Replace the bolts.

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Nice touch, so you use scaff pipe as a slide hammer? 

Bolt is head to head, pipe on extra long bolt, washer then nut. Slide hammer! 

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On 19/12/2018 at 19:43, IanMc said:

I gave up on mine and just cut thew bolt head off and bashed it through to the center of the car (with the help of plenty of penetrating fluid).

Once the arm is off with the bolt stuck in it, I cut through the old bolt between the washer and the rubber. Once the nut and washer were out of the way the thing came apart quite easily. This of course assumes that you are going to replace the now useless bushes like I did. If you have a look at my project thread you will see the bushes fitted and a link to show where to buy them - they are relatively cheap!

By the way, to do what I have described on the drivers side requires the exhaust to be out of the way - otherwise the bolt hits the pipe as you drive it through.

Best of luck matey.

It's out! I had to resort to cutting the head off, lovering the subframe down a bit and then it slide out to the side no problem. Not seized in the car at all but the bolt is well and truly seized in the bush. All the penetrating fluid hadn't touch it as it still looks bone dry.

The bush is so far undamaged so I'm still only down one bolt. I'll worry about the bush later but it will be a lot easier with it off the car. 

That's all for a few days.

Merry Christmas to anyone reading, and again, thanks for the advice and encouragement.

Cheers!

 

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Just now, ®evo03 said:

Nice touch, so you use scaff pipe as a slide hammer? 

Bolt is head to head, pipe on extra long bolt, washer then nut. Slide hammer! 

No, I pull the old stuck bolt into the scaff pipe, you weld a nice strong bolt the to the head of the stuck one and then put the tube over it. Then put a thick washer on the new bolt and pop a nut on, simply wind the nut on the new bolt and the old stuck one pulls into the tube.

No bush damage ! if you are careful you can cut the bolt you welded on back off the original bolt, tidy it up and use it again.

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On 19/12/2018 at 19:43, IanMc said:

I gave up on mine and just cut thew bolt head off and bashed it through to the center of the car (with the help of plenty of penetrating fluid).

Once the arm is off with the bolt stuck in it, I cut through the old bolt between the washer and the rubber. Once the nut and washer were out of the way the thing came apart quite easily. This of course assumes that you are going to replace the now useless bushes like I did. If you have a look at my project thread you will see the bushes fitted and a link to show where to buy them - they are relatively cheap!

By the way, to do what I have described on the drivers side requires the exhaust to be out of the way - otherwise the bolt hits the pipe as you drive it through.

Best of luck matey.

It's out! I had to resort to cutting the head off, lovering the subframe down a bit and then it slide out to the side no problem. Not seized in the car at all but the bolt is well and truly seized in the bush. All the penetrating fluid hadn't touch it as it still looks bone dry.

The bush is so far undamaged so I'm still only down one bolt. I'll worry about the bush later but it will be a lot easier with it off the car. 

That's all for a few days.

Merry Christmas to anyone reading, and again, thanks for the advice and encouragement.

Cheers!

 

I've been making some progress over the last few weeks but it's been slow. I finally finished a couple of jobs today so I thought I'd write it up and share a few photos. I stripped down the subframe mainly to make it easier to store and it came a part no problem which was nice. I may get it blasted or I may just set too with a wire brush in the grinder. Thoughts please.

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

Then I cut out the outer chassis rail larger than the internal rot so I could work out how best to repair it.

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

Then it was a case of making a new inner section out of 2.5ish plate. I got a job lot of zintec' off eBay and I just matched the thinness. I make a card template and the formed a section using a piece of bar with a slot cut in the end and slowly formed the flange. Then dressed it up.

 

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

Once happy with the fit I cleaned up the existing and soaked everything with zinc primer and let it dry.

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

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Then I welded the new sections in. I had to make it in two section. The main one is on the outside and then a smaller section to theengine bay side. This actually worked out well because I could weld it from both sides and also check the welds were penetrating ok.

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

Before I can anything out I fixed a 4x2 to the ARB mounts and the fixed legs to brace it off the garage floor to make sure nothing moved.

I temporarily screwed the old external chassis panel in place to make sure my new work was the right dimensions and all looks well.

Can't upload a photo as I've reached my limit....

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https://photos.app.goo.gl/22K7miy9zRHX4N1t8

I reached my storage limit and I'm sorry to say I lost motivation to update the thread. Anyway, work has been progressing albeit slowly. Polar white and rust operates at about 10 times the speed I do!

Above is a link to the driver's side chassis leg outer  repair panel I made. Took ages but looks ok. Probably a lot easier in the long run to buy the panel.

Can't seem to find a photo of it installed, bit it is. I had to unpick the jacking point a little to make it fit but is solid now all the way back.

I also managed to get the windscreen out. It was cracked before I started and the crack is terminal now so I need a new windscreen but I did manage to do a little repair on the B post 

https://photos.app.goo.gl/exyiThnTGUW8nycN8

https://photos.app.goo.gl/6eSJ1DqApPvxv84G8

Also cut out the driver's side swan next. The inner structure was shot here so following advice I found on here I remade the bad section out of 40x40mm box section and tied that in.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/cFvn2grFt5nCgdQX7

I'm going to have a break from working under the car and maybe have a look at how much damage is really under that vinyl roof....

Advice if anyone is out there. With the swannecks done do you think it would be ok to put it on a rotisserie? It would make working on the underside so much more pleasant? 

Edited by Nivlek2525

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I like your fabrication work on the inner chassis rail, once that is installed and both legs are solid and finished it will be fine to put on the spit, i actually replaced both my chassis swan necks while on the spit, using 4x4 posts to support the load (Restoration of D91 MOP).

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Thanks bris jas, there was a good post on here somewhere recommending the box section. It's cheap and exactly the right width. I just inserted in in until it reached the top subframe mount and put loads of plug welds in and then spliced it into where the lower mount is and seam welded it there.  I got really lucky as there is no real deterioration of the inner material from the lower mount back so I didn't have to remake those mounts. All being well, the subframe should bolt straight up.

The passenger side is done inside and out. I've only replaced the inside on the driver's side so far as the car is hard up against the wall. I could move it away from the wall now the box section is in but to be honest I'd much rather get it flipped over as I think I'll make a neater job. 

I need to drop the rear axel and take the rear screen out but after that I might just get it up on the rotisserie. I don't think it will move as everything else is pretty solid in that area. I think I'll get more done if I'm not having to crawl under it every time.

I'll check out your build if it's on here.

Cheers.

 

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20 hours ago, bris jas said:

I like your fabrication work on the inner chassis rail, once that is installed and both legs are solid and finished it will be fine to put on the spit, i actually replaced both my chassis swan necks while on the spit, using 4x4 posts to support the load (Restoration of D91 MOP).

I've just sat and read through your restoration. A stunning car! A huge task but beautifully done. Well done.

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Posted (edited)

Help needed.

I've completed stripped the car of all the glass and dropped the front subframe and rear axle so now I have just the shell. I want to get it up on to a spit/rotisserie I'm making but wanted to check on the best rear mounting points. I've searched the forum and it looks like others have used the rear bumper mounting points. Is this ok? It's only one skin of metal where these holes are. Do I need to do anything to the inside to strengthen it?

Cheers.

Edited by Nivlek2525

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Yep. i've always used the rear bumper holes, i also put large plate washers on the back just to spread the load as much as possible.

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Have a borrowed spit, it bolts to the bumper holes, and towing points both sides. Its a well made home made job. Front is into chassis, two bolts either side. 

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13 minutes ago, ®evo03 said:

Have a borrowed spit, it bolts to the bumper holes, and towing points both sides. Its a well made home made job. Front is into chassis, two bolts either side. 

Thanks for that Evo. I'll build it around the bumper mounts and if I think it needs any more I'll tie it into those tow points.

Cheers.

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Posted (edited)
14 minutes ago, ®evo03 said:

Might get a chance soon to take a pic or two. 

Thanks it would be really helpful if you could let me know roughly where the balance points are to get it spinning right.  I've looked at a few pictures and for a stopped car, no doors, boot, bonnet etc it looks to be about 100mm above the mounting points at the front and the back.  I guess there is a lot more weight in the floors and chassis legs than there is in the top half of the car.

These are a couple I found in the forum which gives a good idea of where the centre of gravity is.

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

 

Edited by Nivlek2525

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At the back where the box section bolts on to the rear bumper bolt holes I placed a piece of rubber in there to stop any excessive marks from forming, the nylock nuts were given a good tighten up, and a large piece of metal inside boot was used to spread the load. I, like you was wary of the rear valence being single skinned and possibly flimsy but it held the weight fine with no problems or issues. The mounting points for height and centre of gravity I had to adjust a few times front and back to get the proper weight distribution, then it turned easily, a one man job. The pin in the front to hold the angle on my one bent after a while so I replaced it with a stainless steel rod, heated with oxy-acet and bent to the same L shape worked better.

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Mike, thanks. Very much appreciated.

It will be next week before I get back on it now unless, I can get a few hours tomorrow. I'll do as you say and post some pictures when I get done.

Cheers.

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Posted (edited)

Will try these photos, dont know how good they will be, apologies for the slight mess, disorganised bits. See back mounts, paint, panel protected.

Balance is bumper level, didnt make this, its borrowed, just bolted it to the floor with raw bolts, very sturdy.

 

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

Front. Its up with full glass and doors :D 

 

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

Edited by ®evo03
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That's brilliant Evo. Thanks.

I notice your pivot points are a bit lower than the other pictures but that could be the glass and doors changing the CoG.

Only got an hour on mine this afternoon so just got it a bit higher in the air and had a bit of a clear out. Spinning next weekend hopefully.

Thanks again, much appreciated.

I like the Rawl bolts idea.

Looking forward to working at a comfortable height and not having to crawl under it for a while.

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Took a while but the car is on its spit and it's a lot more comfortable to work on.

Sill cleaned up and cut out.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/j96EbGthtbWBfQgY6

Only needed a small patch added to the bottom of the lip where it connects to the outer sill. Flux core makes everything look dirty/rusty but cleans up again ok. Rust converter and weld thru primer and then fit the outer sill.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/dyHQuHVNRxMntK1t9

This took me ages. I must have taken it on and off 20 times and couldn't decide where to cut. In the end I repaired the bottom of the B post where it returns into the door opening remaining the original flange and then cut the new sill short of the door opening because the repair panel had a different radius to the door opening. I hope that makes sense....

https://photos.app.goo.gl/7hiCRaHLRERxKHhj8 

this one probably explains it better. I really took my time and welded in little spots at a time. There was no distortion at all, until I ground it back. Lesson learnt, grinding causes heat too! Still not too bad and might be able to tap it out.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/gFKJxavYnF77nsuF9

I cleaned up the wheel well and the arch is really good. This car has been soaked in waxoyl or similar in the past. The only corrosion was to the seat belt mount so I cut it out.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/sRca4XySPH79cDd1A

And made a new plate with a flange so it sits flush on the inside of the car. 

https://photos.app.goo.gl/GPuxUhEKArfGFcgUA

Spot the deliberate mistake?

https://photos.app.goo.gl/4CNKjq2ckwa3QTZk7

https://photos.app.goo.gl/CwAAecFJaZwGPcLt9

This is the only picture I can find with the mount in place. Spot welded first, then seam welded around the outside for strength.

You'll see I was a bit out with some of my spot-weld holes on the sill so I need to drill more and weld these up.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/GtvH9BpCaAduBArP6

Powerfile is my new favourite tool.

A couple of the wheel arch once cleaned up.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/AkRR26yCHRq8ztMr7

https://photos.app.goo.gl/Aagzu5FLVB9Ukpuq6

And the one small repair required at the back.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/xX7YnjhTdDgTp43BA

And after repair

https://photos.app.goo.gl/8oemCUZiRatmHGFn8

Inspired by the condition of the wheel arch I washed down the rest of the underside with white spirit and I'm chuffed that the waxoyl has done its job.

There are a load of photos of the underside in the link below. Once the waxoyl was off the original paint was exposed. There are a few little spots to sort out but I'm happy there's not a huge amount to do here. Makes up for the mess I found under the vinyl roof.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/tDoh5Hf3HEjDHMaj6

On to the other side soon.

 

 

 

 

 

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Well done, another Manta saved!

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