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bris jas

Full Restoration + 400r Build 83 Coupe.

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Great work, well done that man.

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Ok bit more of an update!

Finished off the o/s arch up to the new sill section, it has had one fitted before but rusted through so that will be replaced, waiting on that part. I took the 1/4 back to bare metal and covered it with hydrate 80, this acts as a great etch primer plus stops the metal getting surface rust.

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So onto the n/s, this needed the same work as the o/s but also the spare wheel well needed replacing, once that had been done i could then finsh the fitment of the back panel.

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Onto the wheel well

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Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

 

 

Edited by bris jas
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Absolutely outstanding work!

I really wish I could have flipped mine over on a spit...

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Brilliant work! this car will be great when it is done. Keep going.

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Excellent work mate! If this ends up half as good as your previous efforts it'll be a stunner. Good to see you're keeping busy :)

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On 31/01/2019 at 16:50, bris jas said:

Ok bit more of an update!

Finished off the o/s arch up to the new sill section, it has had one fitted before but rusted through so that will be replaced, waiting on that part. I took the 1/4 back to bare metal and covered it with hydrate 80, this acts as a great etch primer plus stops the metal getting surface rust.

 

 

I have 2 wings and a rear quarter panel that need a little work, can the hydrate 80 be primed straight over? in the past I have ended up with other brands not leaving a great finish especially if I brush the rust converter/protector on, (used Hydrate 80 on the underside and subframe of the Mrs Corsa, very pleased with it) 

One last question.... I was thinking of using red oxide primer but will that react with 2PK when I take the car in for it's final paint? or do I need to bite the bullet and try and get my compressor working and use a 2pk primer?

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19 hours ago, TheRealExile said:

I have 2 wings and a rear quarter panel that need a little work, can the hydrate 80 be primed straight over? in the past I have ended up with other brands not leaving a great finish especially if I brush the rust converter/protector on, (used Hydrate 80 on the underside and subframe of the Mrs Corsa, very pleased with it) 

One last question.... I was thinking of using red oxide primer but will that react with 2PK when I take the car in for it's final paint? or do I need to bite the bullet and try and get my compressor working and use a 2pk primer?

I've painted over Hydrate 80 before with cellulose primer and 2k primer and raptor system, no problems either time. Its does state on the side of the container for best and lasting results use modern paint system.

I've never used red oxide primer so can't advise on that. Spraying primer on rather than brushing will give easier finish to work with.

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I was thinking red oxide only as I can get it in rattle cans, compressor needs a new motor, I'll have to see if I can get a good second hand one maybe, probably as cheap as a motor.

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Ok so on to finishing the lower rear 1/4, had to make in 3 sections.

Firstly i made the top (in the picture) section, will of course be the bottom when the car is up the right way! Once this is the correct shape and welded in place, it will  help making the other sections as this runs the full length.

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I made the front section first, this is a little easier as the section just has a slight curve

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The rear section is  harder because it curves both ways, i also managed to get a return on it where it fits inside next to the rear panel

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Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

Next i'll be tackling the cill section, floor and the reinforcement section behind the rear of the cill which also attaches to the b pillar.

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Its always best where you can to drill out the spot welds, makes it easier in the long run and doesn't cause so much damage to the adjoining panels. As the cill had been patched before and looked pretty rough all over i will replace the whole length, this way i can also treat the inner cill.

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As you can see there is quite a bit of rust (no change there!) so first i will tackle the section behind the  front seat belt mount

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I started to cut back the reinforcer panel and b post section to get to clean metal, piece that attaches to the back of the cill by the jacking point, i was hoping to save some of this but it had gone worst than i thought so out it came.

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I also at this point removed the section of the inner arch which had the rear seat belt bracket attached.

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Now all the rot is out of this section i will make up new sections to fit. The outer 1/4 panel above i will deal with once the cill is all lined up and ready to go in. 

 

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Er, how can that be possible,  I’m gonna have to go back and check it out again 😂 that fabrication is unbelievable 

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Managed to spend a bit of time in the garage this week, as mentioned above i will concentrate on the rear inner section of the cill, their are 3 parts to this.

I had to repair the lower inner arch section where the seatbelt anchor sits first and the floor

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Once i was happy with that i moved on to the piece that attaches to the cill and also the rear jacking point, this had to be made from thicker metal as it could be supporting the car.

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I just had to cut out another section of rust first

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Then plate it up

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That piece fitted in a treat, so next was making the section that is part of the inner 1/4 panel and also the cill attaches to it as well.

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Once that was welded in i then repaired the section which attaches to it which is the base of the b post.

Bit fiddly this section but best to take your time and also check the cill fits and lines up where it should. I then moved along the cill/ floor and had to fabricate a couple more plates before i got to the jacking point!

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Once i finish a section i like to coat it in Hydrate 80 for protection. Onto the jacking point

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To be honest the jacking point and floor around it had rotted but the chassis is very good, there was a small piece of corrosion on the outer skin that i removed and treated the inner but that was just a bit of surface rust. I have closely checked over the rest of the chassis leg and to my amazement its perfect with no signs of any rust issues any where, kinda feels like i'm cheating if i don't replace it!:rolleyes:

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Edited by bris jas
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Fantastic work again Jason, well done!

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Great fabrication, loads done, do you weld both sides of your repairs, like these two patches, outside and inside? 

When you put your sill on do you treat hidden steel, and what with? 

Winner on the chassis legs, you can drill down onto them from inside the car and plug the holes, for future treatment. 

Will you remove all paint including hard to remove grey primer?

Sorry for the questions, at the same stage myself

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11 hours ago, ®evo03 said:

Great fabrication, loads done, do you weld both sides of your repairs, like these two patches, outside and inside? 

When you put your sill on do you treat hidden steel, and what with? 

Winner on the chassis legs, you can drill down onto them from inside the car and plug the holes, for future treatment. 

Will you remove all paint including hard to remove grey primer?

Sorry for the questions, at the same stage myself

Thanks.

I weld completely around the plate on one side and on the other depending if its structure or not i will weld again all the way around and over lap the metal by about 10mm, if not structual i tack the other side 20mm apart so as not to get any raised areas.

I always treat unseen metal if not already coated, i use Hydrate 80.

Thanks for the heads up on the chassis legs, hopefully once treated they shoudn't need looking at again🤞

Yes i always remove all the body paint as you never know what is hiding underneath, this one has very bad micro blistering.

Hope this helps.

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