Full Restoration + 400r Build 83 Coupe.

[IanMc 656]

Yet again, wow! 

[bris jas 308]

OK so shell is now completely solid, fitted new o/s cill and finshed off the rear inner arch and front lower a pillar

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I had a couple of small repairs to do on the top of the front panel above the lights, strangely both side had gone in the exact same place, anyway cut out treated with hydrate 80 and new pieces welded into place

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I took both the doors and boot lid to my blasters on Friday as i want them to just blast the insides around the frame, this way i can see more easily what needs sorting. I know both doors will need some repair to the bottoms but hopefully only a small patch to the inner boot lid.

Next job while i wait for those to be returned is to start trying to fit up the Volvo 240 rear axle, not sure yet how far away the mounting points will be but its a good 5 link set up including panard bar and comes 5 stud with disc's as standard.

One thing i will have to over come is the fact the spring and shock are the different way around to the Manta set up, could always go coilover i guess!

 

[Bonga 28]

This is quality work mate. Great to see what you can do when you know how to.

[bris jas 308]

Can't believe i haven't updated my thread since April, where does the time go!

Next job now that the shell is rust free and solid was to fit the Volvo 240 rear axle, this is how it was

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And after i had removed the bits i didn't need for fitting

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So first i offered it up to the car to see how far away the mounting points were compared to the original manta, yep no where near and nothing i could use apart from the body mount for the panard rod.

Once the axle was cental between the arches i then took loads of measurements to ensure the axle was square and in the correct position, once happy with that i then went about making up new mounting sections

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The nut will recess into the chassis leg as i want the bracket to fit flush for maximum welding

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I tacked them in place first then refitted the axle to make sure all measurements were ok, all good so welded them in, also added a strengthing plate between the 2.

For ease i removed the panard rod mount from the manta axle and fitted to the Volvo axle, this way i can just use manta bushes on both ends. As the mount on the Volvo axle is closer to the centre than the manta one i made up an adjustable panard, this will also help to get the axle set up later on. (i forgot to take any pic's of this but will once back from the power coaters!).

As i want to fit rear seat to the manta i didn't want box sections inside so for the upper arms, after lots of thought alignment i managed to position the mounting points so i only had to make very shallow covering sections.

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Final fitment of the axle to make sure all clears and sits where it should.

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I couldn't get the spring and shock to work as they are located the other way around to the manta and the chassis was just in the way so i've had coilovers made, they will mount in the original shock inner arch mount position, i seamed welded this for extra strength so should be ok as my track manta is set up the same (although does have a cage) never had an issue there.

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The rear and front axles have been completely stripped, all bushes removed ready for superpro bushes after its all been powder coated, just to mention the rear anti roll bar goes around the rear of the axle and attaches to both lower arms and not the body.

Once all happy i then finished prepping the underbody, checking all seems with sealer before masking up and spraying in Upol Raptor.

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Just got the newly dipped and treated bolts etc back today, so just waiting on the suspension parts back from the powder coaters then i can fit them both suspensions up and get them back on the car.

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Next stage after that will be to drop the car onto stands and start to fit the kit!!

Hope your still awake after reading all this 🤞.

 

 

 

 

Edited June 10 by bris jas

[IanMc 656]

Superb work - yet again....

This is all waayyyyy beyond my skill set!

[Paul Barrett 540]

Hi Jason,

got any more pics of the roof skin cuts you did, looking at all the different ways of doing this for when I tackle to coupe soon.

[bris jas 308]

2 hours ago, Paul Barrett said:

Hi Jason,

got any more pics of the roof skin cuts you did, looking at all the different ways of doing this for when I tackle to coupe soon.

No i don't mate, give me a call when your ready and i can talk you through how i did mine.

[Jessopia74 48]

Do you have anymore pictures on your axle job? 

Did rear seats fit ok again after that little cut out for top link?

I have similar idea to mount the 4haaxke, so any advice on how you got/ what you would do differently would be very welcome.

[ANDY ABBOTT 188]

Liking the look of this, some very nice work done here. I'll be following this build with interest 😎

[bris jas 308]

On 03/08/2019 at 21:41, Jessopia74 said:

Do you have anymore pictures on your axle job? 

Did rear seats fit ok again after that little cut out for top link?

I have similar idea to mount the 4haaxke, so any advice on how you got/ what you would do differently would be very welcome.

I haven't fitted any seats in as yet, car is long way off from being finished, the small raised sections shouldn't cause an issue though.

Here are some pic's of the rear axle, fresh back from being powdered coated

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I'm using adjustable top links for ease of setting up, all new bushes installed ready to fit back into the car.

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All fitted back in with new or treated bolts/nuts etc.

Coilovers installed, this may need a shorter spring but i'll wait until car is on the ground with wheels before i play around with that.

I made my own adjustable panard rod, i used the fixing from the manta axle onto the volvo which was pretty straight forward, this way both ends are manta bushes, just makes life easier.

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Hope the pictures help!

 

 

 

[Jessopia74 48]

Yes they do help, thanks!

have you had to strengthen the shocker turrets for the coil overs as that is very interesting idea 💡 

Oops also, who did you get the rods off ?

Edited August 5 by Jessopia74

[bris jas 308]

As the bottom of the car is finished and the rear axle installed i then started on the front, again it was fully powdered coated and new or treated bolts used.

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New bushes and steering gaitors. The springs are 40mm lowered, i have fitted these before and have liked the stance of the car.

Just a heads up on the rear axle, if you ever get one powdered coated and blasted make sure you removed the crown and pinion and ball bearing races, i removed the half shafts and axle cover then masked all open sections, the guy who blasted it then masked again just to make sure.

When i got it back the the crown and pinion were very hard to turn, i washed out the axle but it just got worst and wouldn't turn, nightmare! I stripped it right down and found all the bearings full of the fine blasting material, took me half a day and 6 cans of SAS spray to clean out the bearings, all back in now and turning freely.

So onto the doors, the n/s just needed a small plate and forgot to take a pic of that.

O/s door was shot along the bottom, i did see a few doors for sale but all were around £100 and needed small bits of repair. So decided to fix mine, it fitted so well on the hinges and the gaps were good so worth trying to keep it.

First i got hold of a donour door, only one i could get was a n/s, removed the lower frame, o/s and n/s lower inner frames are very similiar apart from the front and rear sections where they curve up around the corners

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With lower frame removed

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New lower frame istalled and outer skin cut back to solid metal, this is where the fun begins. So i had to make my own lower door skin with retun flange. Above is a piece of metal i removed from the donor door, 10mm bigger top and bottom, the 10mm at the bottom will be the returned flange and 10mm at the top will stepped as below.

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I then clamped the metal to an old spirit level and carefully planished the bottom lip around to make the start of the flange

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Once done checked the measuremants against the door and welded it in place

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Welding about an inch at a time to stop any heat distortion, i would also after 10 welds planish the area using hammer and dolly just to help keep the panel straight, anyway all went to plan and came out a treat.

I then planished the bottom flange around the bottom of the frame and added welds about 6" apart. Then put the door back on and kept my fingers crossed🤞

Couple of raised areas to address but looks great and gaps spot on!

I have a few more pic's of the door on the car but ran out of MB's space and can't seem to add any more even if i do a new reply!

Anyway panels all finished now, just refitted the boot and all fit well, next job it onto fitting the bodykit. Never done one before buy quite looking forward to it!

 

 

 

 

 

38 minutes ago, Jessopia74 said:

Yes they do help, thanks!

have you had to strengthen the shocker turrets for the coil overs as that is very interesting idea 💡 

Oops also, who did you get the rods off ?

Yes i seam welded them all around and also the small cap on the top, my track manta has the same set up but the tops are connected to a cage, never had any issues with that and the project car will never get anywhere near the stress that the track one does.

When you say Rods?

Edited August 5 by bris jas

[Jessopia74 48]

Rods, I actually mean Links and rose joints

 

[bris jas 308]

26 minutes ago, Jessopia74 said:

Rods, I actually mean Links and rose joints

 

The top links came with the rose joints, Ebay.

[Jessopia74 48]

Thanks, will take a look.