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H-400

New swan neck

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After some years I noticed the right side swan neck is in a very bad condition. Did some repairs in 2009 but that was only a delay. Bought the new repair section of Eckhard and they look very well. Noticed the thickness of the new leg is 1,5mm (original 0,8mm). So the new rail will give the car some more stability.

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Building out the drive-train, together with my son. So the chassis is easy to reach.

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And he is doing a great job, cleaning the old chassis legs so we can find the spot welds to drill them out.

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After dissasemble one part of the leg the upper part looked like this:

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That rail had also a reinforced part inside, that are we going to use again.

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The chassis without the rail, gives us a look how cars in the 80'tis where protected against rust...

 

 

Edited by H-400

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10 minutes ago, H-400 said:

where protected against rust...

Or not!

When you mention strength, or rigidity, have you ever experimented with extra strength?  Cross sections from chassis to chassis, thicker anti roll bars, 

You can plug your new chassis leg from engine bay, where it meets bulkhead, this is where water gets in, why did opel do this? 

Bought these of eckhard, a gentleman, very well made, didnt need them so, primed and put into storage

Edited by ®evo03

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I fitted these chassis legs from Eckhard on my last project, top quality.

Good to see you getting your son involved, hopefully he'll be part of the next generation Manta savours.👍

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Yep evo, this is what I mean. There was no rust protection at all...This repair is not for a rally-car so no extra strength is needed.

And yes, the water hole of the chassis leg is a well know problem.

@Jason: He is going to be a part of the next generation, he wants to drive that GSI...

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Test-fitting the new "half" chassis legs:

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The brown stuff on the bulkhead is old glue:

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Another pic before cleaning:

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Cleaning: with a soft brush degreasing the innerside of the left legs, cleaning them wit a steel brush and compressed air.

Then I used Rustyco, a gell that eats rust and can cleaned with water, and environment friendly:

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The nice weather dryed the car, but to be sure I putted my wife's hairdryer in the chassis rails...

 

 

 

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Great thread! Gives me ideas for Manta fixes! 

Is that the new INNER chassis rail in the photos? 

Why does it come in two halves?

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Thanks for the comments. This is the outer chassisrail, the further pics will explain the rest.

Think it comes in two halves so the width is suitable to cover the original outer rail. Some don't have the skills to do the whole work and I can 

understand that. I am also more a mecanic than a welder. Took me ages to take that torch again. 

Maybe Herr Eckhard can answer your question?

Some more pics:

Fitting the reinforced inner rail, must be accurate there the bolt of the suspension is located:

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Welding the outer half, there are a lot of holes in the outer rail so spotwelding is easy:

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Reinforcing the inner rail where the vertical bolt of the front axle fits.

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Fitting the top inner rail:

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Everything welded, the silver look is cause I paint-spray everything (before welding) with inox-paint. It conducs electricity very well 

and is special for mig-welding so the overlay is protected against rust:

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Between the two inner rails some more reinforcing:

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Same on the inside of the other half:

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Ready to treat the seems with kit, as you can see the two halves are welded together wile I used a home-made spanner to keep the rail on its position.

I had to cut some metal to keep the original width of the outer rail:

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@Evo: In the corner you can see the triangle hole, that needs some fixing as the little round hole above it.

One detail: drilled one more hole to make the original fixation free of the earth cable.

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Superb Gerhard, very well done!

Are you doing both sides?

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Thanks for the nice comment.

@Ian: after treating the old parts of the rails with rust-eater I used high air pressure to spray rustconverter into them.

The other side was done in 2009 and after a check I treated it the same. The car goes back to a body-shop to do some spot repairs 

and also to repaint the engine bay.  Later the rails will get a fresh anti-rust treatment.

 

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Eckhards outer rail come in two halfs due to tooling and production methods, 

H400, i normally use a similar plug to the door hinge plug, to seal small corner hole. You could also drill into chassis from behind steering column inside the car, and full length of car to use protection in years to come! 

You can use plugs again to seal them. 

Full repair sections two inner sections, and four inner sections are expensive! But oh so worth it, as mantas are expensive too! 

 

 

 

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Hi Evo, thanks for the hint, it is realy so easy but never thought on that!

 

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The Manta is yet at the painter:

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After 10 years there are some spots that need attention, but my son is motivated to help:

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Maybe it needs some work cause I did this with the car?

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Yeah, a car is made to drive, not to put in a glass box...

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When will you get her back from the paint shop Herman?

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The paint shop is the same as 10 years back, I know the owner very well and as the last time I am allowed to prepare 

the car. So it means I've got to take free, that will be the week from jan the 21st. In the meantime I took the front axle complete apart,

going to galvanise the bolts and some other parts and respray the rest. Hopefully there will be no special duty's at our barrack's cause 

there are two tanks (Leopard) on their way to Estland and there is some "rumble in the jungle" cause of the election-problems in Congo.

At this moment it is raining, I wanted to respray the parts under my carport but to moist...

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Well have done some work on the Manta, but not that much progress.

Lot of time cleaning and degreasing. 10 years ago I gave the car a Dinitrol treatment, by a professional.

The result is that all the bodyparts inside have that greasy wet stuff, the engine compartiment also...Takes ages to remove it!

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This is how the car is at this moment. Question: Never done it without disassamble the dash-board, is it possible to remove the heater box?(engine bay)

Tried to look under the dash to check if I can unscrew those 4 bolts but my back is killing me today.

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Another rust-sensitive part: Removed the rust till naked steel, went into the seem with a Dremel grinding tool and treated it with rust-eater.

Later some rust-converter on it and this is the result. Needs ofcourse some work.

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Found a Recaro-ventilation device in the floor pan! So cutted the steel till it was rustfree and welded a sheet of metal in it. 

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Also a well known problem, the battery-tray. Still looks OK, but needs some minor repairs.

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The floor-pans were 10years ago welded, but the seams had some "fly-rust". De-rusted them, used rust converter and special metal paint to protect against rust.

Grts, Herman

 

 

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Nice work Herman. Its best to sort those type of things out now of course, it will save a lot more time, money and heart ache later.

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1 hour ago, IanMc said:

Nice work Herman. Its best to sort those type of things out now of course, it will save a lot more time, money and heart ache later.

Couldn't agree more!

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Thanks for the nice comments, always more work than we expect.

Want this car 100% technical OK, my son is going to drive it.  He has got to learn "No ABS, No Power steering, No stabilisation system, No traction controll, 

No GPS, No smart-phone device, and so one" 

He just don't nows it yet...

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A real car then, need need for a gym, built in fitness regime.

You could at least fit corsa b power assisted steering, so he doesnt exhaust himself whilst parallel parking, 😚

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Posted (edited)

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Superb Herman, she's looking great already - congrats!

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Thanks Ian, I am working on the home-made 400 bonnet and than they can paint everything.

Gonna take some pics of this "Bonnet-project".

Grts, Herman

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Posted (edited)

Made in 1994 this bonnet, cutted the frame and welded a lot of threaded studs on the inside of the skin.

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Gleud and bolted the air-intakes, made everything nice with filler on the outside.

But after some years the filler began to crack on several places, because the skin vibrated to much...

The bonnet went on the attic of the garage.

20 years later, the Belgian MOT doesn't allow a fiber bonnet without CE-marking, so I took the bonnet back down:

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You can see the air intakes and also the missing parts af the frame, took those parts of another donor bonnet and welded 

them in:

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Yet the skin of the bonnet is again supported so I hope the new filler won't crack again.

All this work and I have this waiting in my garage:

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A fiber bonnet... not allowed...

 

Edited by H-400

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