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H-400
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5 hours ago, H-400 said:

When I disconnect the cables I let both engines run, the Mondeo had an earth connection on the body. But noticed when I fitted the new battery that is simple connected with the earth of the battery. Was already checking the wiring plan of the Manta (on internet) and the + of the dash comes from the same + that feeds the fusebox. All the warning lights (indicators, handbrake, highbeams etc...) do still work. The voltage regulator feeds only the feul & temp. gauge but the voltmeter & rpm gauge get direct + and they don't work also. Think there is a possiblity my voltage regulator is burned also, it's an electronical one I fitted later. Didn't had time to take the dash apart, but will keep you all posted. Am invited on a BBQ to drink someones fridge empty 🍺

Sadly, the electronic version would be easier to damage with a voltage spike. 

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On 05/08/2022 at 11:18, H-400 said:

Something weird happened with the GSI on holiday in France. Didn't mention it in the story I posted a few days ago cause it's more technical. The Ford Mondeo of a friend had a flat battery so I jumpstarted him with cables to check the charge of the alternator. Charge was OK so after 7 years of life we went to the village to look for a new battery.

After a few seconds I noticed my RPM-gauge didn't work, as also the ones of the battery, temp and feul gauge. So something went wrong when I jumpstarted the Mondeo... Stopped the car to check the charge of my alternator but luckily that was OK, still got to drive to Belgium. The only gauges that work are ofcourse the speedometer and that stupid econometer. 

So in modern cars the alternator stops charging when the battery is 80% full, this cause of feul consumption reasons and envirement. But when the car (engine) decelerates the alternator will give 100% charge. Was talking about my problem the other day with a friend (mecanical at a dealer garage) and he said this charge can go up to 18Volt. So this will killed my gauges...

I knew my engine never overheated in those hot days thanks the special radiator I fitted, knew the consumption of feul so I checked my km-counter to fill the tank. In Paris we had some traffic jam so I started the electrical fan I fitted on the radiator. Arrived home without any problems so mow I already found some dashboards to repair mine... 

So if one of you guys want to jumpstart a modern car, think about this story.

By the way, we found a new battery for the Mondeo. After fitting the owner felt a bit guilty about my problem...

Thanks for sharing this, sorry to hear of your troubles. 

Having searched a bit it seems that recent Fords have been using a fast charge system that gives up to 18V. It also seems that it is setup to do this at low engine temp & low battery voltage. 
 

I guess rather than doing the traditional engine running while jump starting a more convoluted procedure may be in order. 
 

Have both cars switched off when connecting leads.  
Start & run the Manta for 3-5mins to boost charge the flat battery in the other car.
Switch off the Manta thereby removing any potential damage to anything that is in circuit when the ignition is on.

Try starting the other car. 
Remove -ve from that car first.

I’d suggest that this method should also ensure that the modern car’s electronics are not subject to spikes when connecting/disconnecting leads too. 

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Thanks for the info Trooker, thats also what I'v done. I'm used to jumpstart trucks etc. and as usually I let my Manta charge the  Ford battery for minimum 5 minutes. But I didn't cut of the Manta battery while we started the Ford, as I'm used to I let the Manta run...

So something learned the hard way, going to take the dash apart this afternoon.

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49 minutes ago, H-400 said:

Thanks for the info Trooker, thats also what I'v done. I'm used to jumpstart trucks etc. and as usually I let my Manta charge the  Ford battery for minimum 5 minutes. But I didn't cut of the Manta battery while we started the Ford, as I'm used to I let the Manta run...

So something learned the hard way, going to take the dash apart this afternoon.

I’ve always done it the way you did too, your experience made me think we need to have a different approach these days & save other club members from similar problems. 
 

I’ll look forward to hearing what has gone wrong, hope the job goes smoothly!

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Well the problem looks like solved. So took the complete dash apart, as you all know it is a job fast done. I always lower the steering column till it hangs just on those two 13mm bolts. Makes it easier to remove the plastic trim under the dash:

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

So before changing everything I opened one of the gauges, and no signs of burned thin lines...

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

So I checked all the metal lines on the circuit board with a multimeter and noticed I had connection with the warning bulbs but not with the gauges... Took out all the gauges and after taking out the cover of the red charge light I saw a burned part of the metal strip:

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

Checked the circuit board of one of my earlier Manta's and that one had the same partnr. Fitted all the gauges and RPM counter, contact on: All warning lights do what they must do; started the engine and everything looks ok. 

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

Think the voltage regulator has survived everything 😄...

Have a nice Sunday-evening, Herman.

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Hi Jess, they are fitted with two screws, but when those screws are out you can easy pull out the dial. Except that econometer, there is also a tube you'v got to pull of. Wanted to fit an oil pressure gauge but think I'v got to use a circuit board of an Europeen B1 and check also the polarity of the electric plugs.

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9 hours ago, H-400 said:

Hi Jess, they are fitted with two screws, but when those screws are out you can easy pull out the dial. Except that econometer, there is also a tube you'v got to pull of. Wanted to fit an oil pressure gauge but think I'v got to use a circuit board of an Europeen B1 and check also the polarity of the electric plugs.

Thanks 👍. Did not realise the Euro version was fitted with vacuum econometer, interesting. Not sure if the loom or the housing would be different as it’s only 1 extra wire I guess

3 minutes ago, Jessopia74 said:

Thanks 👍. Did not realise the Euro version was fitted with vacuum econometer, interesting. Not sure if the loom or the housing would be different as it’s only 1 extra wire I guess

Edited by Jessopia74
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