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New swan neck


H-400
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The new pistons on the conrods:

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And yet in the engine-block. Waited till my son was back (from Antwerp, day out) so he could feel how it is to put a new piston in a engine. Things they don't learn anymore at school.

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Don't look at the mess, lookes like a car exploded here...

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Sorry, been busy at work...So I put the cranckshaft in the engine and connected the rods:

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Tried the GT1900 oil sump, but it doesn't fit. The oil-sucking pipe is in the way, and after some information the capacity of the sump is lesser than the steel one. So if anybody is interested in this sump it is for sale.

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And opened my cupboards, boxes etc. to find out what I have to close the engine:

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Think I have enough after collecting some years!

Enjoy the weekend!

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Today a friend came by to check his Corsa-B. Needs a patch welded in his floor pan, but this will be done in august. First the Manta! Done a lot of cleaning, the bolts of the distr. house and waterpump. Checking the different types of tension-guides so a lot of building on and of... The head is not the lightest one so had my exercises today. Some advise for those who want to fit a new oil-seal: Try not to damage the old lip-seal when you disassamble it, fit it over the pulley and use this to stamp the new seal into his place. Lubricate enough! Can be used for axles, gearboxes and Manta-engines. Learned this in Africa where no toolkits were available:

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And this is my timing-chain, it is possible to open it so I can change a camshaft without dasassambling the head:

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Grts, Herman

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Hey Herman

The engine is looking good 🙂

 

A quick question, do your pistons have the oil squirt hole in the con rods? as mine dont but doing some reading some people seems to say that some 2.4 do have the squirt hole? Just curious.

 

Andy

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2 hours ago, ®evo03 said:

Ah, regarding sump, thought i was missing something! Phew! 

Can you also change the chain by joining old to new? 

Top tip on using old seal to fit new. Great work. 

Your suppose to be able to pull a link out of the old chain and then connect the new chain (split link that Herman has) then pull the new chain through, remove the old one and connect the new one back up. No need to removed anything from the engine!! Did one a very long time ago on a 1.9 CIH and worked great.

Just for for anyone that might be looking for a chain with a removable Piper do them (https://www.tjmotorsport.co.uk/proddetail.php?prod=tcop) it doesnt say that its split link on the description and when i mailed and asked if it was a closed chain they said yes but when it arrived it had the removable link 🙂 Only found this out in my quest to solve the issue im having fitting my front cover and cam wheel. So some use has come out of it!! (and i have a spare chain if i ever need to replace mine!)

On 11/05/2019 at 18:13, H-400 said:

Sorry, been busy at work...So I put the cranckshaft in the engine and connected the rods:

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

Tried the GT1900 oil sump, but it doesn't fit. The oil-sucking pipe is in the way, and after some information the capacity of the sump is lesser than the steel one. So if anybody is interested in this sump it is for sale.

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

And opened my cupboards, boxes etc. to find out what I have to close the engine:

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

Think I have enough after collecting some years!

Enjoy the weekend!

Herman, does that sump fit the manta? as it looks deeper than the steel one and i know the clearance on the A series cross member if very tight on the steel one?

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Hi all; @ evo: You have your answer from Andy. This timing-chain lock can be ordered @ Mercedes, no problemo! And our friend Thomas (Edelschmiede) sells it also.                

Hi Andy: The oil sump doesn't fit, the oil pick up pipe is not a match. And the oil amount is lesser. Checked also the oil squirt hole but not in this 2.4 engine.

 

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18 hours ago, H-400 said:

Hi all; @ evo: You have your answer from Andy. This timing-chain lock can be ordered @ Mercedes, no problemo! And our friend Thomas (Edelschmiede) sells it also.                

Hi Andy: The oil sump doesn't fit, the oil pick up pipe is not a match. And the oil amount is lesser. Checked also the oil squirt hole but not in this 2.4 engine.

 

Hey Herman

I was always curious about those GT sumps and what they fitted? as the engine in them is the same, so what do they fit? It would have been nice to have a alloy sump to match my rocker cover 🙂

No squirt hole on mine and none on the Woosner ones but in the frontera Manuel it mentions them, another one of those Opel mysteries 🙂

 

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Hi Andy, got the same rocker-cover. Looks not as nice as yours!  Was talking to a friend about that sump and the first thing he said before I could "Its the oil pick-up pipe!" So I can cut that pipe and weld it back together at another angle... About those squirt holes: they do'nt mean those little holes in the piston where the oil- ring is? 

Back to my garage; fitted new stem seals. As jou can see I use a plastic folie so I don't damage the new rubber on the sharp edges of the valve-stem:

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Engine almost ready to close:

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And this is looking as an engine, some fresh paint and some more parts and we are back:

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Hey Herman

Good to see some pics of the engine 🙂 Does that mean you are going to try and modify it and use the GT one?

Its good to see how that dipstick sits in the engine as im just trying to figure mine out and get the right oil level for it, and as usual i have gone for a slightly different setup  🙂

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Also this is the squirt hole. Image taken from the Frontera Haynes manual !! Is that a 2.4 piston in the picture?

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It wont load the pic but click the link and it should load.

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Used again an original steel sump. Maybe later... Got time issues. Normally I would drill a hole at the normal spot of the Manta dip stick. But because I had to bore & hone the engine I asked to do this for me at the engine reconditioning firm. Did a nice job. Going to use the other hole for a breather system to a catch tank.

Opened the pic, never heard or seen about those holes in a 2.4 CIH.Yes in other competition engines and modern high powered turbo engines. And I never opened my "400" engine. Going to check the technical manual of my "400". I replaced the bearings of the rods too, so I'v shoud seen those drilled holes.

Grts, Herman

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Herman

I've not seen them on any of the build threads that i have read and yes you would notice them on the build up. Gil at Opel GT said some of them did have them, but most didnt. Probably something GM did at the start and then stopped due to cost!

If you dont use the sump what would you sell it for? as i see it uses the side dipstick option (kind of what im trying to achieve with the steel one on mine :-)

 

Andy

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Hey Andy, the pic you saw was the other side. Not the dip-stick-side. The hole and tube is in the sump as this pic (copied from internet):

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But the tube of my sump is a bit bended, not as new. The other "dip-stick possibility" on the other side is as you saw on my pic is for group-4 engines. They have that nice Gp-4 exhaust system so you can not use the dipstick on that side.

Well I want to help you with your dipstick problem, but I can not sell the sump cheaper than I bought it. Don't forget your oil pick-up pipe needs bending/adjusting and the oilcapacity is a bit lesser but can be solved with an oil-cooler. 

I've got some projects on hold, want also to make a copy of a "Schwedenkopf" and still have to finisch the truck I bought... work work work! So I don't need the price I can't resist but a fair one , we are both petrol heads...Make me an offer

Grts Herman

 

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On 15/05/2019 at 14:46, H-400 said:

Hey Andy, the pic you saw was the other side. Not the dip-stick-side. The hole and tube is in the sump as this pic (copied from internet):

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But the tube of my sump is a bit bended, not as new. The other "dip-stick possibility" on the other side is as you saw on my pic is for group-4 engines. They have that nice Gp-4 exhaust system so you can not use the dipstick on that side.

Well I want to help you with your dipstick problem, but I can not sell the sump cheaper than I bought it. Don't forget your oil pick-up pipe needs bending/adjusting and the oilcapacity is a bit lesser but can be solved with an oil-cooler. 

I've got some projects on hold, want also to make a copy of a "Schwedenkopf" and still have to finisch the truck I bought... work work work! So I don't need the price I can't resist but a fair one , we are both petrol heads...Make me an offer

Grts Herman

 

Hey Herman

I really appreciate the offer of letting it go at what you paid for it, BUT your comment of lots of work to do and a truck to finish made me think that if i take this sump it will then end up being another little project to get done and i really should just crack on and get the car going again so i can just enjoy it for the summer, its been so long since i have driven it! Lets hope it still drives like i remember 🙂

Also my other project that i promised myself that i would get finished after the car is a 1969 LI 150 Lambretta that i have fully stripped and just needs prepping and painting and putting back together and that has been sat in the loft in bits for longer than the Manta has been in the garage 🙂

So i think i best resist and get car going for now 🙂

Andy

 

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Hi Andy, no problem. Concentrate at the car, something I have to do also. Want this car on the road as quickly as possible. Yesterday I'v done nothing on the car, had some work on the carport. There was with north-west wind some rainfall in it and made some more shelter to block the rain. But this weekend will be spended on the Manta again.

Grts, Herman

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11 hours ago, H-400 said:

Hi Andy, no problem. Concentrate at the car, something I have to do also. Want this car on the road as quickly as possible. Yesterday I'v done nothing on the car, had some work on the carport. There was with north-west wind some rainfall in it and made some more shelter to block the rain. But this weekend will be spended on the Manta again.

Grts, Herman

Im with you on that Herman, got to keep pushing on and get these old cars back on the open road again, it been far too long for me 🙂

Just waiting on another banana guide and then i can finish the engine, will send you a pic when its all finished.

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Have disassambled the rear axle to clean and repaint. Check the bushes and so on... Found this after 10 years:

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So I have to take the welding torch again. Found also a rusted spot on a chassis-rail next to the spring. Time can be tough for our cars.

 

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Hi Ian, thanks! Gonna check out how to repair the rear axle. Also checked the inside of the sills, they are also a weak place that can be "crusty" but that is not on my car. 

Grts, Hermann

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Well, this is how the car is lifted up. The both garages are full with another car and spare parts so I am using the carport . It is rather big and cause I have some mobilehomes as costumer it is also high. As you all could read I'v done some work on the north side to stop the rain fall so the Manta is dry stored:

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Needed two hours to build the feul-pump set out, the rubber blocks were totaly worn and had to cut them of. Then I took the grinder to make a split so with a big screwdriver and a lot of penetrating oil they are dismanteld:

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And these are the places that need a thick patch. Gonna grind it out till 100% healthy metal and weld new in:

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Grts, Herman

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I had mine up on some trestle stands about that height. makes it so much easier to get under and do stuff and the welding is much easier.

Unless you have a big garage i think a carport gives you much more room to get around the car.

Im catching you up with the engine building Herman!!

I used the original guide for the tensioner and i got a new banana guide from krause which was about 1mm thinner than the swag and had a bit more flex, popped the cover on easily, secured the head and then the cam wheel lined up perfect and all i needed to do was put the cam wheel bolts in and tighten them up and it pulled the cam gear straight on. So thanks to everyone for the pics, measurements and info. Im now not far off bolting the box on and getting the engine back in the car 🙂

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Hi Andy, nice to read everything is OK with your CIH. 

Bought some things, brake lines for the GSI and lip seals for the "400" and while I payed them I told my car needed new spring-seats... I said they were also made in Belgium .But they are yet hard to find and take two weeks to deliver from Germany.   They looked into their info and said there  is a deliverer and after some seconds I saw those spring seats in stock, so they arrived a day later:

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Opened the rear axle and noticed the brake cilinders are stuck, need to replace them. Also need a new gasket for the diff-cover... Need Thomas again!

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Need more free days to rebuild this car!

Grts, Herman

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1 hour ago, H-400 said:

Hi Andy, nice to read everything is OK with your CIH. 

Bought some things, brake lines for the GSI and lip seals for the "400" and while I payed them I told my car needed new spring-seats... I said they were also made in Belgium .But they are yet hard to find and take two weeks to deliver from Germany.   They looked into their info and said there  is a deliverer and after some seconds I saw those spring seats in stock, so they arrived a day later:

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

Opened the rear axle and noticed the brake cilinders are stuck, need to replace them. Also need a new gasket for the diff-cover... Need Thomas again!

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Need more free days to rebuild this car!

Grts, Herman

Nice work herman. I know what you mean about time! Its taken me nearly a week to put the engine back and i still dont have the sump fitted 🙂

I try not to look on Thomas's site as he has so much stuff now and there is lots i would like to buy 🙂

I will send you a proper pic of the engine when its all fully built, hopefully by the end of the weekend!

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