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H-400

New swan neck

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3 hours ago, H-400 said:

Had some time to work on the Manta, but you all love pics so the feul pump clean under the car, MOT rules in Belgium are very strict so it stayes there till after MOT:

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The propshaft on its place:

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And the new feul lines yes on their original place but this job is not ready yet. Needed a pipe cutter but a friendly neighbour lend it to me after  I ended working at the car. But thanks anyway!

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Filled the gearbox with oil and because I had no pump to use (I use them from the workshop at the barracks😁) I did what we do in emergency's: Take a silicone hose and cut it in an angle, drill a hole in the cap of the oil bottle so the hose fits tight in it. Put the hose in the bottle untill it toughes almost the bottom. Then you can pump the oil in the gearbox, keep the bottle vertical, after pushing the oil loosen the cap to let air again inside and pump again.  If you are somewhere in Africa we do not always have the tools to work but the army learns to be inventive:

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This one is also for Andy Abbott cause he 's got the same rocker cover: I had in the past some oil leaks from that cover, so I ordered a gasket of a 2.4 frontera/omega and it looks ok. The chape of our cover is a bit different so I had to cut a small part at the front:

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The rubber gasket fits nice:

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And this is the partnr. to order it, the brand is Victor Reinz so can't be a problem:

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Don't order them right now, still got to test it with a running engine! 

Grts, Herman

 

Herman

Used one of these on mine as never could get the cork one to seal on the GT rocker covers and had the engine running up at the engine tuners and never had one drop of oil leak out of it so definitely the one to use on these alloy covers. 🙂

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Hi Andy 611, thanks for the confirmation. Had also always problems with the cork seal, leaked on the front where the two inbus-bolts are fitted. So Andy Abbot (thanks for the comment) can try this seal too.    Am just home, went to see "Le Mans 66" with my son, movie for petrol heads!

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22 hours ago, H-400 said:

Hi Andy 611, thanks for the confirmation. Had also always problems with the cork seal, leaked on the front where the two inbus-bolts are fitted. So Andy Abbot (thanks for the comment) can try this seal too.    Am just home, went to see "Le Mans 66" with my son, movie for petrol heads!

Herman

There is also a very nice rubber sump gasket for the old steel pan that replaces the 4 part one that works just as good as the rocker cover one, have you seen that one?

 

Andy

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Hey Andy, thanks for info. I saw it also so it is hanging in my garage ready to use !

So it has been a while I posted something, an update: The radiator is delivered and looks very nice. 50mm thick core with 43 cooling channels. Costed me with mailing 180€. 

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Last week I took the decision the "400" has got to go...😥  To the winter storage in company of a lot of other old-timers😊.  Need also the space to work on the GSI. So the day I wanted to drive to that location the car didn't start. Like the car knew it had to leave my garage. Checked some basic things and I had no ignition! The low voltage circuit was ok, also the resistors and the coil also. So got to check the wires that come from the "hall-sensor":

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Problem is this distributor is rather rare, got to check if the hall-sensor of a GSI is the same and so on...

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I will keep you all posted... 

Grts, Herman

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On 05/10/2019 at 00:22, H-400 said:

That's it as you wrote:

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At Opel they have a special tool for it, sorry it is in German. This is tool KM-330 and the large side is 9" clutch (120mm). The smaller side is for the other ones(109mm):

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Hey Herman

As mine is a hydraulic setup its quite hard to adjust as i have set all the lengths to be set for the standard setting in the book and its all set in place with loctite. What issues could i come across if i leave it set as it is? and do you know why the distance was more for the bigger clutch?

 

Andy

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shouldnt do any damage providing there is still some free play in the lever when released.and not hitting the front when pressed either.

i always thought the different dimention was because some clutches had the nylon / plastic thrust ring fitted on the fingers ? but then so did the later smaller clutch too.

or was the larger clutch fitted with a different (cast iron rather than steel )operating fork. was this longer ? hence the slight different adjustment ?

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Hi Andy, sorry for the late response. Was late yesterday, opening of the new building of our athletic club. Bar is tested and proven as good!

The only thing I can imagine is the pressure plate is a bit higher? The 11mm difference on the top of the lever will be maybe 5mm on the release bearing so as cam in head wrote I think also it won't hurt your clutch. My clutch has got that plastic ring also but the "400" not, so I have to adjust them both identical but one without plastic ring... Think a lot of 9" clutch owners set their clutch to the standard 8,5" setting cause they just never heard about that difference.

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Another update: The "400" is back alive! I reinstalled the old 'contact ignition' so had to search for that resistor wire and so on. When I installed that nice 'Eighties' electronic ignition I made the loom so it looked factory made. Had to cut all those wires out without damaging the original ones. Refitting the original coil and rewiring the original cables. 

And the engine didn't start... Checked the voltage of the resistor wire, voltage on the green wire with mass and without to be sure😵. So I was thinking what I did just before the problems: I cleaned all the mass cables of the engine, the big + cables on the starter-engine. I cleaned them all, but the inside screw-threads were cleaned with contact cleaner. So I took a thread tap to clean those and some minutes later the engine started and runs as new 😮.

So I changed that ignition set too fast, but yeah got to check that dizzy cause I think the springs are too weak...And what have we learned: Contact cleaner can leave a residu, very strange: the engine turns when starting, but no ignition. So I had a better look and a "400" has got an extra loom on that mass cable of the battery.  Enjoy your Sunday-evening, Herman

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Very interesting Herman, but glad it’s sorted.

Noted for future though, thanks for the follow up on it👍

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7 hours ago, cam.in.head said:

shouldnt do any damage providing there is still some free play in the lever when released.and not hitting the front when pressed either.

i always thought the different dimention was because some clutches had the nylon / plastic thrust ring fitted on the fingers ? but then so did the later smaller clutch too.

or was the larger clutch fitted with a different (cast iron rather than steel )operating fork. was this longer ? hence the slight different adjustment ?

Im running a chevy s10 clutch from Opel GT Source, so not sure how that compares the CIH 9" as far as height etc.. i will do some double checking on clearance but it all seemed fine when i had her up to be tuned.

http://www.theopelproject.com/?p=1464

6 hours ago, H-400 said:

Hi Andy, sorry for the late response. Was late yesterday, opening of the new building of our athletic club. Bar is tested and proven as good!

The only thing I can imagine is the pressure plate is a bit higher? The 11mm difference on the top of the lever will be maybe 5mm on the release bearing so as cam in head wrote I think also it won't hurt your clutch. My clutch has got that plastic ring also but the "400" not, so I have to adjust them both identical but one without plastic ring... Think a lot of 9" clutch owners set their clutch to the standard 8,5" setting cause they just never heard about that difference.

Good to know the bar is ok Herman 🙂

I never would have known that there was a different setup for the bigger clutch without your info and probably would just have gone on the standard setting. I will do some checking and keep a check on things when i finally get her up and running properly.

good news on the 400 🙂

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