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seangteowens

C20xe fuel pump running on ignition

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Can any one help me my Opel manta b with a c20xe, well the fuel pump runs all the time on ignition. It should just prime up and cut out until cranking happens am I right?

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Posted (edited)
21 minutes ago, seangteowens said:

Can any one help me my Opel manta b with a c20xe, well the fuel pump runs all the time on ignition. It should just prime up and cut out until cranking happens am I right?

 

On my V8 manta with a Facet pump it runs all the time on ignition, you can tell when it reaches pressure as it changes tune but the pump keeps on humbing, what pump are you running?

Are you running carbs or injection?

Edited by bris jas

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29 minutes ago, bris jas said:

 

On my V8 manta with a Facet pump it runs all the time on ignition, you can tell when it reaches pressure as it changes tune but the pump keeps on humbing, what pump are you running?

Are you running carbs or injection?

I’m running the standard c20xe injection system. With standard 2.0 GTE manta pump.

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Posted (edited)

pump should run all the time, it should cut if engine stalls, ie its a safety device that stops the pump, for example, a car accident, ignition is on engine has stalled, pump should stop. 

If it is noisy, there is only one way to stop it, buy a new pump and wait xxx amount of years to become noisy again.

Edited by ®evo03

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14 hours ago, seangteowens said:

Can any one help me my Opel manta b with a c20xe, well the fuel pump runs all the time on ignition. It should just prime up and cut out until cranking happens am I right?

Could it be losing fuel pressure at all in that case? Any other signs of a problem such as a noisy pump or rough running? If not any of the above then it sounds like an electrical issue (depending on pump type and how it was wired) it could be an issue with the fuel pump relay circuit.

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On 05/05/2019 at 21:46, ®evo03 said:

pump should run all the time, it should cut if engine stalls, ie its a safety device that stops the pump, for example, a car accident, ignition is on engine has stalled, pump should stop. 

If it is noisy, there is only one way to stop it, buy a new pump and wait xxx amount of years to become noisy again.

Ok in order for it to cut out when the car stalls dose the thin red/blue wire that is on the square green plug on the c20xe loom have to be connected to any we’re? Cuz at the min the pump still runs on ignition which means at the min when I stall the pump still runs? 

21 hours ago, Classic_Nova_and_Manta said:

Could it be losing fuel pressure at all in that case? Any other signs of a problem such as a noisy pump or rough running? If not any of the above then it sounds like an electrical issue (depending on pump type and how it was wired) it could be an issue with the fuel pump relay circuit.

Pump sounds good. Dose people run an adjustable fuel regulator? Are dose it matter? 

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Posted (edited)
58 minutes ago, seangteowens said:

Ok in order for it to cut out when the car stalls dose the thin red/blue wire that is on the square green plug on the c20xe loom have to be connected to any we’re? Cuz at the min the pump still runs on ignition which means at the min when I stall the pump still runs? 

Pump sounds good. Dose people run an adjustable fuel regulator? Are dose it matter? 

The blue/red wire on the green plug on the XE loom you’re speaking about is your live feed for the fuel pump. As my car was a carb originally, I just ran a wire from there direct to my fuel pump. 

My pump only comes on when the engine starts cranking and cuts out when it stalls (as it should) 

Sounds like your pump has either been wired from a direct ignition feed or your possibly someone bypassed the fuel pump relay causing the pump to run all the time with the ignition on? 

Has it always been like this or is this a new thing?

edit - I think it’s blue/red, will check mine tomorrow to make sure.

Edited by biffy1984

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8 hours ago, biffy1984 said:

The blue/red wire on the green plug on the XE loom you’re speaking about is your live feed for the fuel pump. As my car was a carb originally, I just ran a wire from there direct to my fuel pump. 

My pump only comes on when the engine starts cranking and cuts out when it stalls (as it should) 

Sounds like your pump has either been wired from a direct ignition feed or your possibly someone bypassed the fuel pump relay causing the pump to run all the time with the ignition on? 

Has it always been like this or is this a new thing?

edit - I think it’s blue/red, will check mine tomorrow to make sure.

 No I have just put the engine in the manta so I’m not sure what way it ran before. The manta has the standard 2.0gte in it. I have the blue fuel pump wire from the many loom connected to the thick 4mm red/blue wire going into the relay. And then the small red/blue wire that’s on green plug I haven’t got it connected yet at all. 

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7 hours ago, seangteowens said:

 No I have just put the engine in the manta so I’m not sure what way it ran before. The manta has the standard 2.0gte in it. I have the blue fuel pump wire from the many loom connected to the thick 4mm red/blue wire going into the relay. And then the small red/blue wire that’s on green plug I haven’t got it connected yet at all. 

On mine there is a thick red/blue wire in a 2 pin black plug on it's own right next to the ecu, I have that wire going straight to the fuel pump positive, I don't have the thin red/blue in the green plug connected to anything and it all works as it should.  Do you have the thick red/blue in a black plug next to the ecu? Can you stick up a couple of pics?

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Posted (edited)

I did wire a redtop to a 1.8 loom, how i done it? Cant remember but it is possible, if it didnt happen yesterday, cant remember shit! 

But it is possible, think you are looking for a positive on live ignition only.

Q? Are you fitting a 2.0 injection to a GTE loom?

Edited by ®evo03

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3 wires on the red top ECU to get it working. Can’t remember exactly which ones, and that was on my 1.8 loom. As said above, pump should only run when engine is cranking, not when ignition initially on. I’ll see if I can find the picture I had of the wires you need to use

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Thought it should prime! Thats what the fuel relay is for. Once its primed it and cranked it switches to a fulltime running once cranked. Via fuel injection relay. 

Think the owner needs to state what full car loom he has? Could be 2.0 carb?  Lso it could be bridged or bodged at fuse, 7 to perm live.

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Think this is very important, the feul pump relais is there for something:

Was once witness of a serious car accident, a Golf Mk1 between a bus & a heavy truck. The result was a wreck of 1meter long and the fuel kept on running out the fuel-lines while I heard a young kid crying inside. Was with my tow-truck and we also have those hydraulic scissors to free people. But first I had to disconnect the battery.    To make a long story short; The kid was trown (he didn't use the seat-belt, was in the Kosovo-war) in the footwell behind the drivers-seat , could cut him out together with  help of a lot of military co-workers with many fire-extinguishers. Was the only time local poeple applaused fur us overseas, when I gave the 4 year old kid to his mother. 

Think nobody wants to have someone, friends family or kids in this situation.  

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I think I have it sorted Wired the blue fuel pump wire into the red/blue wire in the relay it’s not the thick 4mm red/blue wire but the thinner red/blue wire I believe it’s the feed to the injectors. Pump runs on crank now but not on ignition. 

The car was a standard 2.0gte I replaced it with the c20xe. Should the car still have its own fuel relay along with the c20xe relay??

as I just have the one, here is the pic of the relay.

2nd pic is we’re I wired the pump into 

 

 

 

DC1E182E-6162-4A30-933B-4F0DB8A9D9E4.jpeg

7654D30B-FDE8-4956-ACAA-394D86C7A349.jpeg

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That joggs my memory, blue to thin red blue.

And no just injection loom has its own relay, therefore the gte relay went with the old engine, xe has its own relay.

Well done think you have cracked it, you could also test pump by disconnecting feed up close to engine, it should prime and stop, cranking should fill a jam jar pretty quick.

Next up is, do you run a o2 sensor, it can be deleted from xe ecu, you can also run  diagnostics light with a simple illuminated switch.

Your better running an electric fan on a switch also.

 

 

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from memory you need to change the manta engine bay loom am sure it unplugs and swap it with the c20xe engine bay loom and then theres a few wires to reconnect

sorry my memory not  working 100%

plus i then changed to R1 CARBS as the injection system sensors are a pain in the backside   

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Different to how mine is wired but mine was originally a carb so no old loom to confuse things. Like evo3 said, get rid of the GTE engine loom and just use the XE wiring.

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my old loom now binned 

spagetti.jpg

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On 08/05/2019 at 19:10, ®evo03 said:

That joggs my memory, blue to thin red blue.

And no just injection loom has its own relay, therefore the gte relay went with the old engine, xe has its own relay.

Well done think you have cracked it, you could also test pump by disconnecting feed up close to engine, it should prime and stop, cranking should fill a jam jar pretty quick.

Next up is, do you run a o2 sensor, it can be deleted from xe ecu, you can also run  diagnostics light with a simple illuminated switch.

Your better running an electric fan on a switch also.

 

 

Yes got it running now, it just doesn’t prime on ignition, but it dose start as it’s fueling on crank. Dose yours prime up on ignition? 

Yes I have ran an o2 sensor, I found out after I connected it up I could run with out lol.

the diagnostics light what colour is it and is it just that wire and an earth to make it work?

yes I have a fan just running it of a switch, handy when on long city runs.

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Yep, seems your up to scratch, and one the button, 

Yeh diagnostic light is handy, its easier just googling it!  Something like diy redtop diagnostic light, your codes are flashed up by morse codes, you can download reference codes, best part is you can turn illuminated switch off

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On 10/05/2019 at 18:28, ®evo03 said:

Yep, seems your up to scratch, and one the button, 

Yeh diagnostic light is handy, its easier just googling it!  Something like diy redtop diagnostic light, your codes are flashed up by morse codes, you can download reference codes, best part is you can turn illuminated switch off

When u say you can turn illuminated stitch of what do u mean by that? 

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Its a switch that lights up, when its on it flashes any codes, you can turn switch off, doesnt light up, you can get a tidy wee flip switch, almost like a lecy kettle switch! 

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