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So tonight have removed the sticky from the side of sticky,not to much damage to the paint will blow in the damage paint (hopefully)

Give  it a clean ,

Retrimed the rear 1/4 trims 

started to trim the rear seat back 

Does any one know which way the wiring goes for the rear wiper motor, screen wash

Better photo of the kick panel and so trim 

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Going to the paint shop tomorrow ask lots of stupid questions, hopefully get the right answers

That’s sticky all rapped up ready for paint

A quick rub down ,clean and get some paint on ( again)

The reacting on the bonnet is all ok now,Looking good 

The paint damage on the doors (when l removed the last of the sticks) looking good 

Cut the Xs carpet of the rear trims ,What a difference a bit of car carpet can make 

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Good luck Wayne!  :thumbup

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So got to the paint shop this morning, ask a lot of questions got good answers, very good  support from the paint shop 

l have not been looking forward to doing this as l never used k2 paint before 

Quite surprise on the answers l got 

so l started to paint at about 12 o’clock ,put 2 coats of paint on and looking excellent 

This paint is so easy to use, If you are thinking of doing a paint job use this paint 

Got to do one more coat of paint, will have to sort out some runs, so l have bared myself from the garage for 2/3 days 

Having a look at the headlights l got they are looking good, 

Was thinking of painting the inside of the headlights sliver  ,( the bit that goes to the glass)

Has this been done before 

Cut the XS carpet off the rear trims put holes in for the clips

Going to sort the wiring out on the front spot lights 

So will have nothing to report over the next few days 

Have a good weekend everyone 

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Just had a thought ,can l still call the manta sticky as the is no sticks on it any more 

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Lovely Wayne - very well done!

This paint has thrown you a few curve balls over the last few weeks, but it looks like you now have it conquered  :thumbup

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Wayne now you’re nearly done & have conquered reacting paint, can I send you mine? 😜

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One nightmare is enough 

9 hours ago, IanMc said:

Lovely Wayne - very well done!

This paint has thrown you a few curve balls over the last few weeks, but it looks like you now have it conquered  :thumbup

Thanks Ian ,l am more than surprised that it’s tuned out so well, never use this paint before well better than cellulose paint 

 

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Good Job!

2pack gives a far better build (thickness) and you should be ok to get those minor runs machine polished out.

I used to know a guy that would just use a block and some P400 to get the ridges off then machine polish the surface back to the gloss, but I have never attempted this myself.

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Had a quick look today it will rub the runs down and give it one more coat of paint,if it needs it as l have some more paint 

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17 minutes ago, 1200bandit said:

Had a quick look today it will rub the runs down and give it one more coat of paint,if it needs it as l have some more paint 

that is the way I have always done it. Knock it back and new gloss.

Don't forget for a flash coat, you thin a little more than previously to get that very deep gloss look.

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22 hours ago, Trooker said:

Wayne now you’re nearly done & have conquered reacting paint, can I send you mine? 😜

If you have reacting l use high blind primer which l put on dry thin coats it takes time but l got there 

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That is issue with the that cellulose, it lifts all sorts of stuff.

you more than likely would have not the issue with the 2pack

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1 hour ago, 1200bandit said:

If you have reacting l use high blind primer which l put on dry thin coats it takes time but l got there 

That’s interesting to hear, I think mine actually needs to be stripped back to the original paint & redone. It’s a testament to the guy who sprayed it a decade ago that it’s stood up reasonably for the length of time it has but I’m probably just putting off the inevitable now. 

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Tonight rubbed down the paint runs ,very easy quick to do 

painted the bits that needed doing,

looking so well l thought l paint the o/s door ,and it has reached, here l go again,

Will forget at for the time being 

On the plus side the headlights,front bumper can go back on once it’s flattened and polished 

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Use 500 grit on the bigger runs,

800 wet, dry on the smaller runs 

using a red scotch pads to flatten the paint and then polish 

Then got to sort the door out 

I think l have enough paint, if not get so more 

 

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Just when you think yeah that going well,

Then this happens ,though the paint was dry Is is But not solid 

So not going to flat and polish now as it will take to long to go hard

So will sell the Manta with cutting compound 

Painted the rear of sticky to night to get it shiny again 

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Chin up matey, things will come good again soon.

Does the paint that you are using normally get ‘baked’ when used in a body shop?

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If it’s like jelly, the ratio to activator was maybe wrong.

how are you mixing prior to filling the gun?

 

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Mixed in a paint pot one part of paint  to half of harder and a bit of thinner (if that’s make sense)

The paint on the bonnet was dry but not hard ,also getting dry lines when painted,

Should l make the paint thinner 

How much air pressure should l use ( very little or more, have not a air pressure gauge on my paint gun)

l think l can say that the paint in not thin on sticky 

Can l still call it sticky without stickers 

l am going to level the paint for a week ( hopefully)

 

 

22 hours ago, IanMc said:

Chin up matey, things will come good again soon.

Does the paint that you are using normally get ‘baked’ when used in a body shop?

Hi lan don’t think is gets baked as the paint shop was very good in giving information, and did not look down on me and give encouragement, think l have to get more paint and bits 

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Posted (edited)

It’s difficult to explain how I like it, it’s about 10-15% thinners but I like a nice glossy wet finish. I do know some older guys that used to just throw paint on even if it was dry patchy, then just machine it out.

but your ratio seems right at 2:1. The only thing I would say is get some paper cups for mixing, and give it a bloody good mix.

as for Gun pressures, if it’s HVLP gravity, then not much otherwise it’s all wasted.  Do you use a Line filter and water trap? 

I honestly would not stress at all, it’s a cracking job so far even if you had a couple of hitches.

 

never used myself, however it may help you and I they are cheap enough.

https://www.spraygunsdirect.co.uk/devilbiss-viscosity-cup-best-way-to-measure-paint-thickness.html#sthash.Ije2ogvP.dpbs

Edited by Jessopia74

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They should have given you the right hardner for air dry, so no need to bake if you have the right hardner. In this temperature it might be drying a bit quick if you are getting dry patches? they should have given you an indication of the right temp for the hardner? if not just give them a quick call, i have found most paint supply places are pretty helpful, its the paint shop shops that are usually not!!

2K is so much easier to use than other systems and you are bound to get the odd run, especially if you are doing it in a garage as the space you have is no where near what they have in spray booths.

I would flat out the runs and just give it a nice final coat, if you have the gun set right you should be able to get a nice finish with a bit of orange peel, just like it would have been when its was new 🙂 nice to have a fully flatted mirror finish but it should look pretty good straight out of the gun.

Your doing a cracking job, dont be put off by the odd little thing.

Its going to be a bit of trial and error to get the right spray pattern. You watched any youtube videos? This guy is pretty good for advice

https://www.youtube.com/user/MrZoeystevenson

 

Andy

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The paint shop is very helpful,don’t look at you as if you a total dickhead ,

Will go and get some more paint ect  

22 hours ago, 611 said:

They should have given you the right hardner for air dry, so no need to bake if you have the right hardner. In this temperature it might be drying a bit quick if you are getting dry patches? they should have given you an indication of the right temp for the hardner? if not just give them a quick call, i have found most paint supply places are pretty helpful, its the paint shop shops that are usually not!!

2K is so much easier to use than other systems and you are bound to get the odd run, especially if you are doing it in a garage as the space you have is no where near what they have in spray booths.

I would flat out the runs and just give it a nice final coat, if you have the gun set right you should be able to get a nice finish with a bit of orange peel, just like it would have been when its was new 🙂 nice to have a fully flatted mirror finish but it should look pretty good straight out of the gun.

Your doing a cracking job, dont be put off by the odd little thing.

Its going to be a bit of trial and error to get the right spray pattern. You watched any youtube videos? This guy is pretty good for advice

https://www.youtube.com/user/MrZoeystevenson

 

Andy

Cheers Andy  The paint shop is very good,don’t look down on you and will try to give good advice ( which is refreshing as they do a lot of trade and sell rattle cans to the likes of me) 

I am restricted for space witch makes it a bit more challenging 

The paint is looking very good but getting a few dry lines,l think the paint will take time to go hard enough to polish out

 Some of the bonnet has polish up very nice, but some is still soft 

Going to get sticky out tomorrow a see how it is in daylight 

Thats why to bonnet went tits up ,but l live and learn 

Have a family bbq tomorrow so not a lot gets done ,except a go clean of the garage

The  support l am getting is a real bonus,Cheers chaps

 

 

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