oil pressure gauge/sender testing ?

[hoobby]

now i'v put this in the right place   .i have cleaned the connections on the sender and the block connector in the engine bay but still the gauge shows 4 bar but keeps slamming onto max+ with the engine running and goes from no pressure to max+ with just the ignition on 

as the sender is a variable resistor with an voltage meter on resistance should see closed circuit with engine off and a steadyish reading with engine running ?

can i bridge the engine bay block connector to show if the problem is with the gauge don't want to fry anything . 

Edited April 16, 2020 by hoobby

[Jessopia74]

Are terminals right way?

[Mike.]

This was my issue as well, easy fix if the wiring is the wrong way round, on the sender there is a big spade and a small spade, I didn’t think this was important but I was wrong, the sender once engine is in and assembled isn’t the easiest thing to get at, therefore it’s an easier swap at the block terminal up beside the heater box, just push the tang in with a small screwdriver and the wires pop out then put them back in the other way round, oil pressure reading should then read true.

Edited April 16, 2020 by Mike.

[hoobby]

thanks guys had this problem last year kept the wires in order when i cleaned the connections on the sender but probably put back in the wrong order after engine was put back in.will let you know the result.

[hoobby]

Ok so just reversed the block and needle slams over to max plus with ignition on engine off or running doesn't matter which way it's connected just put an resistance meter on the sensor shows open circuit with engine off or running can you test it like that?.

Also checked the volts coming to the sender got 12.3v & 7.3v so both wires carry voltage ?

Edited April 17, 2020 by hoobby
Voltage

[cam.in.head]

hi. the sender is marked but you probably wont be able to see them .wk is for the oil lamp and g is for the guage. if you unplug the wiring connector and earth both wires from the car the light should come on and the guage should read zero.

this tests the wiring and the guage and i would imagine that it will be fine.

if you put a meter on the sender unit with the engine off one terminal should read zero ohms (wk) and the other should read zero or very low ohms.its rare that they go faulty but it can happen.usually its the connections,either the ones on the end of the wires or the actual lugs on the sender itself.hard to reach in situ but just about possible !.

the sender unit can be unscrewed from its adaptor with a short or sawn down spanner with a bit of blood and patience ! but its akward. still easier than taking the manifolds off thou and then you can clean up the terminals and inspect/ test properly. 

cheers hope this helps

chris

[Jessopia74]

5 hours ago, hoobby said:

Ok so just reversed the block and needle slams over to max plus with ignition on engine off or running doesn't matter which way it's connected just put an resistance meter on the sensor shows open circuit with engine off or running can you test it like that?.

Also checked the volts coming to the sender got 12.3v & 7.3v so both wires carry voltage ?

They pull down to engine earth mate.

[hoobby]

Again cheers guys i now understand how the sender works will check it out tomorrow as soon as I put the dash back together heater cable popped off .

[Mike.]

Electrical gremlins can be frustrating, chasing and chasing, but finding the problem is always rewarding, it will be found with perseverance 👍

[hoobby]

Earthed both wires from dash side of things and oil light came on and needle dropped to zero so must be bad connection still on the sensor breaking down under load probably where the crimps join the wire.going to get some heat resistant wire and sleeving hopefully that should fix it.

[hoobby]

Well I took the manifolds off and put a resistance meter directly on to the cleaned threads and got open circuit on both like an old TV gave it a coup!e of light taps to simulate vibration and it works keep taping and it doesn't would explain the erratic  behaviour.

[Jessopia74]

Well you got to the bottom of that one. Quick question, has it been replaced and someone used thread tape to seal it?
But it does sound like you need to replace It

[hoobby]

8 minutes ago, Jessopia74 said:

Well you got to the bottom of that one. Quick question, has it been replaced and someone used thread tape to seal it?
But it does sound like you need to replace II

No thread tape but Funny enough since I've removed it it's become 100% reliable  but going to replace as not going to put everything back on to find it's playing up again can olny find new one's for 1.3 everywhere but not 2.0

[hoobby]

Is there a new replacement thats suitable  for a 2.0e ?. Mines so badly corroded I can't make much out.

Edited April 19, 2020 by hoobby

[Jessopia74]

try the part numbers listed there

Edited April 19, 2020 by Jessopia74
Fixed 2nd link

[hoobby]

Cheers Jess went for fae 14690 £28 it has a M12 X1 thread same as mine.

[Jessopia74]

👍

[cam.in.head]

great glad you found it.  i take it you didnt try to remove it with the manifolds on ? 

it can be done cos i did mine earlier thisyear .but is definaely a bit fiddly !

all should be well once the new one arrives 

[hoobby]

40 minutes ago, cam.in.head said:

great glad you found it.  i take it you didnt try to remove it with the manifolds on ? 

it can be done cos i did mine earlier thisyear .but is definaely a bit fiddly !

all should be well once the new one arrives 

No chance it's a 2.0e far too much stuff in the way removed manifolds on non injection models lots of times no problems at all I also ended up removing the manifold from the down pipe to remove the sender my club hands are now covered in cuts and grazes have now got a couple of days before the parts arrive time to heal.

Edited April 19, 2020 by hoobby

[611]

Be interested to see how this turns out, as when i changed my engine i put a new sender on that i g0t from Opel GT source, just because everything else was new and my dial (its an aftermarket one)  now gets pinned to max when i turn the ignition on, never did it on the old one and had too many other things to worry about so have left it for now but need to tackle it soon so it will be interesting to see what happens with your new sender

 

Andy

[cam.in.head]

mine was done with everything still on.manifolds,exhaust etc but it was definately awkward !   (injection )

another thing that can be done in case anyone is interested is .if you can remove the plug at the front of the oil gallery above the oil filter you can install a sender unit there instead. easier to get to and less chance of the wires burning. they did put it in a stupid place  !

[Mickfrad]

I did as cam.in.head mentions above and moved mine. Much easier to access if needed and wires re-routed away from exhaust. 
Not sure if it gives a different reading from original location but it works. 
 

Edited April 21, 2020 by Mickfrad

[Jessopia74]

Seems like a good idea to move the sender unit. I presume the sender is still measuring pressure after the filter ?

[IanMc]

Sorry guys, but I’m having one of my dumb days - where exactly is the suggested alternate location.

I fancy having a go at this myself at some stage. I assume that it doesn’t matter if you leave the old one just sitting there?

Thanks in advance.

[hoobby]

If you look down from passenger side at your oil filter you can see the Allen grub screw used for checking oil pressure

Was thinking of refitting the old unit and putting the new one on the filter housing but it leaks oil as the sealing ring has gone brittle (heat) and half of it had gone but when this new one plays up definitely going to do this a lot easier than pulling the manifolds off.

Edited April 21, 2020 by hoobby