stumpy 228 Posted February 7 Author Share Posted February 7 so today has been spent measuring up the floors ime using were originaly made for an old mini project now on a mini the floor at its outer few inches goes up at a 45 degree angle or there abouts and another 45 to make to a 90 degree where it becomes the innersill so being i have these folds already in the panels i made ime going [rather than chop them off to give a straight flat ] and turn these into twin exhaust tunnels either side of the gearbox/trans tunnel in case of v8 power and being folds in sheet steel add stiffness /strength i think maybe a winner if it doesnt work i will chop them off as i have plenty of material in the panels length and width wise ..dontlook like this now hasa healthydose of surface rust but thats fine will give them a blast with sand blaster or wire brush Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stumpy 228 Posted February 8 Author Share Posted February 8 (edited) managed to get the inner sill in place its not welded but held with tec srews [i love using these things] it also worked out as planned with an 80x40 box section running along the inside of the sill this is going to be tied in to the A post bottom when the outer sill is removed by using two half moon shaped peices of 2.5mm plate to box it inProject images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. you can also see the gap on the inside of the rear quarter between the inner sill top the Rot had spread up and was so thin all along where the original inner sill was spot welded ...it looked solid too prior to cuttin it out how many other projects have rust between mating faces like this scary thought Edited February 8 by stumpy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stumpy 228 Posted February 8 Author Share Posted February 8 next job derust [blast] the floor in pic two then trim it up to suit and offer it up will also be changine the rear underseat x member ??? and putting two peices of 60x40 box instead Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stumpy 228 Posted February 10 Author Share Posted February 10 (edited) so trimmed up the floor and derusted it as was covered in a heavy layer of surface rust cleaned up lovely still a little bit to do offered into place and more fettling got a nice tight join to the inner sill and sitting on a 20mm lip here so mucho strong the floor is not sitting flat/level in the pic as the chassis ect underneath needs trimming for it to sit as i want it but the old chassis will be getting cut out anyway Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. So i had a spare folded tray here, wich i trimmed down /more to be trimmed its approx 110 mm deep with 20mm lips so rather than let this go to waste its going to form the rear section of the exhaust tunnel probably trime the 20mm lip thatattaches it to the tunneldown to 10mm tho along with the folded edge of the floor pan and this section when joined would give approx 110x110 with a taper as can be seen Obviously it is not going to sit as high as in the pics it is literally just placed for the pic and to see if i like it It will have a matching tunnel the opposite side as i may or may not run a v8 but at least its there should i decide to and adds detail to the floor so stronger i would think. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Edited February 10 by stumpy 2 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stumpy 228 Posted February 12 Author Share Posted February 12 managed an hour or two so cut the floor pan down in width ready for the exhaust tunnel i have fabd and had a little play at coming up with a closing panel for the rear end of the floor have a couple of options a straight panel with a lip and a cut out for front ofthe rear chassis rail as this needs and angled peice or a fully angled piece full width Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jessopia74 1,069 Posted February 12 Share Posted February 12 How high will it sit up into the tunnel? I guess 3/4 but 50/50 would still give loads more clearance under the car. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stumpy 228 Posted February 12 Author Share Posted February 12 (edited) ime undecided as yet Jess i was going to go with 100mm but the whole floor is raised slightly being its completely flat so undecided yet between as you say 75/100 mm ive made it at 100mm but easily trim it down should i need to Edited February 12 by stumpy 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jessopia74 1,069 Posted February 12 Share Posted February 12 1 minute ago, stumpy said: ime undecided as yet Jess i was going to go with 100mm but the whole floor is raised slightly being its completely flat so undecided yet between as you say 75/100 mm Was considering something similar on the black coupe floor when I get started, plenty of room as the seat frame is pretty deep. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stumpy 228 Posted February 12 Author Share Posted February 12 (edited) this is why i love the tec screws all revesible during this stageasits a caseof suck it and see tbh height on tunnel also depends how much clearance i have between the bottom of the 60 x40 box section running across the rear originally it is angled downwards from the centre towards the inner sill its looked good but had rot alongthe inside for a good 6 inches not into patching things up. so mine are flat/level doesnt give me as much room obviously but i can alter it but ime enjoying the whole process tbh Edited February 12 by stumpy 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stumpy 228 Posted February 17 Author Share Posted February 17 day off today sick to death of the dreaded tin worm its everywhere i seem to look theres no way if i was doing this back to standard i would have completed it so ime glad its being modified as it will live another life and pretty much a blank slate theres no right or wrong most of the under seat area at the rear is roached the arches the closing panel of the inner sill come off in my hand its rotten 2 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jessopia74 1,069 Posted February 17 Share Posted February 17 44 minutes ago, stumpy said: day off today sick to death of the dreaded tin worm its everywhere i seem to look theres no way if i was doing this back to standard i would have completed it so ime glad its being modified as it will live another life and pretty much a blank slate theres no right or wrong most of the under seat area at the rear is roached the arches the closing panel of the inner sill come off in my hand its rotten Important to take a break now and then. Just not a permanent one 😁 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stumpy 228 Posted February 17 Author Share Posted February 17 yes mate has to be done for sanity just means more panels to make you know its bad when even things that look solid crumble in your hand when you scratch away the paint/sealer this was yesterdays work replicating the inner sill of the drivers side i removed the tunnel [easy enough] as i wanted to change the under seat rear x member set up as well wasnt happy with the box section i put in either so ime going to make some higher four link box x braces to do the same job as the x member would have Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stumpy 228 Posted February 17 Author Share Posted February 17 (edited) i cut the rear section off the inner sill cover panel to expose the box section i will be putting in the x brace at that cut end and then once done put a peice back on so i have the return lip as i then need to replace the lower section of quarter panel inner frame wich will tie into it also have some roll cage base mounting boxes i fabbed up that will get welded directly to the box section the cover panel then will be altered to suit to pretty it up obviously the box section will be tied directly into the A post and the jaking points will be in original position but a different design will tie the chasis rail into the A post as per original will probaly use some75x25x5mm unuqual length angle iron two peieces joined down the centre to give a chunky strong area to jack Edited February 17 by stumpy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jessopia74 1,069 Posted February 17 Share Posted February 17 Will be surprised if you get any flex at all in this once done. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stumpy 228 Posted Monday at 10:02 Author Share Posted Monday at 10:02 chassis rails ......grrrrrrrrr 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jessopia74 1,069 Posted Monday at 10:23 Share Posted Monday at 10:23 21 minutes ago, stumpy said: chassis rails ......grrrrrrrrr Happy Monday 😎 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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