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berlinetta coupe rebuild/modify


stumpy
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6 hours ago, stumpy said:

so i have a 400 kit here and ime going to be cutting the wheel arch anyway
but i think they have cut it more than they needed ... and ime not sure if theres enough material left of the original quarter panel/arch to do that?
 worst case scenario i will custom make something using some thin steel rod to make a skeleton and then panel it in with sheet and weld that to the car we shall see
Frankensteins manta .....this should be called

 

Just looking at doing the exact same job next, with cutting away all the rot then finishing it for 400 arches. I'll keep an eye out see how you do yours 👍

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retropower have a good project old one now where they put a skyline motor i a manya shows the arch work  thats what i will be using

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not as far as i know only on their own website shows all the metal fab   i have seen a couple on here in projects if i find it again i will send you the link

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Posted (edited)

got a couple of hours today  welded the cill to the rear quarter  also welded it from the inside so that i could pretty much completely smooth the outer weld though i left a bit here as it will need some filler anyway due to a little distortion from previous repairs  will see what i can do with a hammer ad dolly though
the  section at the rear edge of the door step had been welded before and was blobby didnt follow the profile of the cill here so i chopped that out and started making peices to fill the gaps 
had to leave it there then as  training  shortly 

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Edited by stumpy
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its not bad theres a little in the cill on the lower quarter i dont know if all the cill reopair panels are like this,, but seems very thin steel  so welding it was a bugger had my set turned all the way down and stll was a case of a dab for a split second let it cool etc more so than normal 

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1 hour ago, stumpy said:

its not bad theres a little in the cill on the lower quarter i dont know if all the cill reopair panels are like this,, but seems very thin steel  so welding it was a bugger had my set turned all the way down and stll was a case of a dab for a split second let it cool etc more so than normal 

It's like that yeah, really hard to get them seamed without a little warping. 

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Posted (edited)

AAAAHHHHH Shite...cut the arch out as close to the weld as possible to leave as much as possible  this has to be the most ham fisted wheel arch repair ive ever seen there was no need watsoever to remove as much of the original quarter/wheel arch   the rot hasnt extended that far up ime now at a bit of a sticking point whle i plan my next move

so ime thinking along the lines if i try to weld in metal to give more arch ime going to distort the hell out of it i do not want to change the quarters  altho i have a pair cut off another car that in itself would present problems 

so i  am thinking of using some 6mm steel rod as a frame and making some arches  as there has been to much meatal removed for the 400 arch mods  that i thought would save me so i think i will do wide ascona type arches 

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Edited by stumpy
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Posted (edited)

thinking i may be better with something like this all steel  with the 6mm rod on the edges where theres joins ect  as can get a good weld on the rod and just catch the sheet steel so as not to blow holes or distort

 

 

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Edited by stumpy
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yes has to be matching back and front i a way its a good thing because the optios are limited regards what i can do  so crack on 

 

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Posted (edited)

made a start on the arches.......left plenty of material on the steel strip so i can play with different widths and trim back as needed  i need to use a nut and bolt with some large washers in a few places rather than the self tappers but is good enough for now ,,,i have a difference in the cut of the quarter panel by the previous bodger upper of up to 50 mm  the largest setion gap is 80mm and the narowest point is 30 mm

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made this lil tool will tack on another leg  so it forms a u  as i realised  it can pivot on only the  one leg and i need it exact....... and i will tack a steel tube to the longest peice on top for the sharpy to slot into and a tech screw in the side of the sleeve to pich the sharpy tight   i can then slide this around the arch i have self tapered into position to give me an accurate line to cut too


now i  didnt fetch the arch all the way down to the bottom of cill level at the front as where it is i can redo the cill/lower quarter repair and buld the arch into the quarter in this area i used 1.2mm steel for the arch will use that for the lower quarter too ime wondering tho if i should have used 1.5  seeing a few paople on rally cars tubbing arches with 1.5mm its a bit of a compromise between strength and weight

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Edited by stumpy
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Posted (edited)

 i tried my 400 arch on this side today and the top of the arch [barely] is above  the cut old arch ...ah well no point messing about 
chop chop make new   joggled an edge on the outside of the arch filler panel to make it easier to dress it downwards
so ths is how we stand at end of play   today  so i am going to fab up some wider cill sections with a nice shape on them tie those into the box section  then the quarters will tie into those

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so ime going to have some sheet with a  fold at the rear edge to go up behind the remains of the upper quarter panel  and have an arc cut into it leaving an extra ten/15 mm to joggle and edge and then dress that down with a hammer and dolly to give a flat lip for the new quarter to but up agains and add some rigidity into the panel..thats the plan never done this before so if anyone sees anything obvious then say now lol

Edited by stumpy
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Posted (edited)
57 minutes ago, ®evo03 said:

Interesting method, are you using 400 fibreglass arch, or making in steel, 

i have a fibreglass 400 kit here but  the person who had it before me and cut the quarter panel to do an arch repair when cutting went up far higher than needed and when i offered the 400 arch against the car today  the top mountng faceof the 400 arch  was 3 mm away from the end of the cut line in the centre

it didnt leave me much choice really i could have    put a flat peice in to bridge the gap  between the arch filler and the quarter bu would mean welding high up on the quarter panel and again around the arch  i think distortion would have been a issue 
and it would have bothered me tbh would never hae been happy with it  so ime making all steel arches not exact to 400  but similaire  i also dont like the flimsy trim peices that you get in the 400 kit for the cill so again i will make in steel

Edited by stumpy
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Posted (edited)

so today has been spent atempting to make a quarter panel and i have to say so far so good  love the uniformity i managed to get on the arch ...wich i was worried about creasing he panel.....  i stood back and admired a few times think Tom Hanks in castaway when he makes fire for first time  pmsl..... early days yet and lots of fettling and on and off before its ready for the blue sparky glue gun  but ime happy at the centre of the arch its 4 inches wider than stock ime not sure  how much wider a 400 ki is than stock?

now ime wondering do i leave it widened at the front leading edge/door shut  and put a flat peice in to tie it to the  door frame aperature or do i taper it to meet the  original leading edge like the 400  .......the outer cill is being widened by 4 inches to match as when i measured my 400 cill skirt its was close to 4 inches wide 


once done  i will slam it dowm low and fit a big ole set of boots  ime kind of hinking stars and stripes manta and losing the rear bumper

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Edited by stumpy
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so ive been scratching my head over this the arch  is 30 inches wide and 19 inches high ..thats .cut at the highest point and the original join between inner and outer arch/wheel tub   
unless i run massive wheels i will need to add a fender flair  to make the opening smaller at the outside  going to try to d it out of steel and smooth it all off so it loos like its a one peice deal ime limited to normal hand tools ive not got a shrinker stretcher enlish wheel ect    i do have an old panel beating hammer and some bricking bolsters so  at worst  will have to start again 

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