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Misfiring while hot


Trooker
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1 hour ago, malbasys said:

Have you guys tried a replacement rotor?  I learned not long ago that all German cars made since before Manta days have a ballast resistor in the rotor arm.  After experiencing misfiring on my '65 Kadett when hot, it eventually died altogether.  After checking everything, with the help of an AA guy and finding no spark at the plugs, I pulled off the coil lead at the disributor to find there was a fat spark.  Then the usual, checked and replaced the pigtail wire in the distributor, etc. and still no joy.  After uplifting the car home, bought a new rotor and the car fired instantly.  The elderly chap at a very traditional spares shop told me about the rotor ballast - which I confirmed on line.  The Kadett had always had a weak spark when cranking cold, not cured by replacing the coil or with copper ignition leads: I'd put this down to 6v electrics - wrongly.

An alternative (and ultimately safer solution) to the rotor ballast issue is to melt or pick out the hard wax on the rotor arm and replace solder in a strip,of brass between the centre and tip - see suggestions online.  I've yet to try this and am a bit corncerned about possibly affecting the balance of the rotor.. The answer should be to weight it before trying, then ensure it weights the same afterwards.

Interesting!

 I don’t remember about the earlier carb models but the rotor arm in the injected CIH with electronic ignition is straight through. 

A year or so back I had an issue with a lack of higher revs on load that ended up being to do with the distributer cap but a new cap sorted that & I put a new rotor arm in then.


Right now my car seems fine but I’d still like to have a spare coil. 

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1 hour ago, Jessopia74 said:

Might be worth starting to think of swapping to Nodiz et al. Would definitely help with running on Ethanol based fuels.

This is worth starting another thread Jess especially if you’ve done some research already.

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1 hour ago, Trooker said:

This is worth starting another thread Jess especially if you’ve done some research already.

I have sort of 😁

Nodiz was just an outward thought, simplest way to just replace the ignition, however;

I just received std GTE loom and ecu . And if you search for my MS2 thread, you can probably see where I am going with it. 
I have received the timing wheel, was playing with it all before I went away with work.

I think we can have a ‘drop in ‘ solution for a std gte engine that will take care of fuel and ignition, but a) look as close to oem as possible and b) reversible. It would certainly eliminate a few problems/limitations with Jetronic setup, but keep its look original. We would use afm plug for crank sensor pickup, so keep look chop free. Caveat to this is loom must be serviceable without any internal damage.

by and large once one gte is done and setup, the map can be used for all. Yes a few small gains could be had by getting each individual rolling road tuned, but not necessary.

Personally I think there should be 2options a) keep dizzy and use the pickup for MS2 input (think if this as the dumb setup, but without need for afm) and b) crank pickup added with bracket , whilst cost would be slightly higher, it will be fully mappable and utilise wasted spark setup.

Third option would be to move to Sequential injection, but since that would require different injectors, so new carriers and rail manufacturing, might be best to just go with Throttle bodies.

 

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2 hours ago, Jessopia74 said:

I have sort of 😁

Nodiz was just an outward thought, simplest way to just replace the ignition, however;

I just received std GTE loom and ecu . And if you search for my MS2 thread, you can probably see where I am going with it. 
I have received the timing wheel, was playing with it all before I went away with work.

I think we can have a ‘drop in ‘ solution for a std gte engine that will take care of fuel and ignition, but a) look as close to oem as possible and b) reversible. It would certainly eliminate a few problems/limitations with Jetronic setup, but keep its look original. We would use afm plug for crank sensor pickup, so keep look chop free. Caveat to this is loom must be serviceable without any internal damage.

by and large once one gte is done and setup, the map can be used for all. Yes a few small gains could be had by getting each individual rolling road tuned, but not necessary.

Personally I think there should be 2options a) keep dizzy and use the pickup for MS2 input (think if this as the dumb setup, but without need for afm) and b) crank pickup added with bracket , whilst cost would be slightly higher, it will be fully mappable and utilise wasted spark setup.

Third option would be to move to Sequential injection, but since that would require different injectors, so new carriers and rail manufacturing, might be best to just go with Throttle bodies.

 

Should have remembered it was you who’d been looking at this previously, I’d even commented then too 🤪

will look out for the next instalment!

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